Replies

1. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Oct 22, 2004 01:46am | #1

   BSzydlo, you have a tough name to type...

   YOur question if hard to understand, but I believe either way you described would me correct. We usually just run the siding horizontally and leave a 3/4" gap above the shingles. We cut each piece on a 4/12 angle.

   blue

   If you want to read a fancy personal signature...  go read someone else's post.
2. 
   FrankB89 | Oct 22, 2004 03:12am | #2

   Since your bottom is following the 4/12 slope, you can lay a first course pattern flat on a sheet of plywood or benchtop and determine the taper of the prospective shim piece so all the shingle bottoms lay flush.

   There are some here who would/could do it mathematically, but. sometimes, for a "one-off" problem, it's just as easy to lay your shingles out, shove little shims under each to bring it flush and, from there, you can determine the taper.  You're only dealing with 2 sides, if I understand you, so one will be a mirror reverse of the other (although the shim doesn't know the difference).

   I usually use p.t. lathe for the bottom strip, but you could cut your tapers out of most anything, though I prefer pressure treated.

    

3. 
   mike_guertin | Oct 22, 2004 04:37am | #3

   Hardie will be coming out with a new and greatly expanded (I hear) "Installation Best Practices" manual in the spring that will cover the shingles. They just printed the 2004 version for the lap siding and it's great (and eyeopening due to their changes in installation practices and procedures)

   I spoke with a couple Hardie technical reps a few weeks back at the Remodeling Show about all their products.

   Here's my take on the individual 'shingleside' singles along walls such as the one you describe.

   Don't run any spacers/shims parallel to the roofline to kick out the bottom of the shingles. Make a 'pitch panel' from a piece of plywood (or even cardboard) that matches the 4 pitch roof angle and is about 4' to 6' long along the top edge.

   Mark 'level' exposures lines to match the exposure you are planning for the shingles (usually around 7"). Since you'll be marking the layout lines for the shingle tops rather than the bottoms you'll have to adjust for the shingle height so the first shingle will be a full one (or match your buttline layout if you are using a story pole).

   Line the first shingle up to the 'cornerboard' line at the end of the pitch panel and shim it out with a short 1 1/2" wide spacer and then a 9" shingle on top of the spacer. Use a brad nailer to tack down the shingles to the pitch panel nailing just up at the top edge.

   Now spread out shingles for the whole panel aligning them to the layout lines and letting the last couple shingles trail off the pitch panel. When you have the panel covered, snap a chalk line to match the bottom edge of the pitch panel. Clamp a 1x6 (or similar) straight edge along the line to run the base of the saw on and cut the shingles off.

   You can either disassemble each row of shingles and chalk numbers on them to keep order - or carry the whole panel up to the roof and just yank shingle courses out from one another in the order you'll install them on the wall.

   One important new instruction that Hardie has in order to preserve thier warrantee - you must leave a minimum of a 2" space between the edge of thier siding and the roof shingles. This isn't what a lot of homeowners want to see - 2" of exposed flashing. When I do this I typically make step flashings out of colored aluminum coil stock that matches the siding color so it's not as noticible.

   You also have to prime the cut edges of the shingles.

   If you happen to be in the Portland, OR area next week I'll be doing a demo at the JLC Live show on Fri and Sat with cedar shingles showing 'pitch panel' cutting tips as well as other stuff.

   Mike Guertin

1. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Oct 25, 2004 03:58am | #4

   Mike, the 2" gap at the shingles has been written into the siding specs since the firstt time I ever laid eyes on them.

   blueIf you want to read a fancy personal signature...  go read someone else's post.

1. 
   mike_guertin | Oct 25, 2004 09:53am | #5

   The 'old' instructions said to leave a " 1 in. to 2 in. space" but the company realized that most installers went with the 1" space so they changed it. They do allow narrower spaces in dry climates but that's on a case by case basis. If it was my house I'd actually reduce the space and ignore the warrantee issues. Hardie's main concern is the South East and Gulf coast states where most of thier sales are.

1. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Oct 25, 2004 04:42pm | #6

   I might be thinking of LP siding then Mike.

   LP requires a minimum 2" gap above the shingles.

   blueIf you want to read a fancy personal signature...  go read someone else's post.

1. 
   mike_guertin | Oct 26, 2004 12:16am | #7

   LP does require 2" and has. I've never used it but a guy I know in CA does and likes it. What do you think of LP?

2. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Oct 26, 2004 03:12am | #8

   I highly prefer it to Hardie plank.

   Pros: It has more grain. It comes in 16' lengths. It looks good when done correctly. It's much lighter. It cuts much easier. It's 7/16 thick...which means that the total thickness is 7/8" which happens to be the exact dimension of our trim boards. I usually lap all corner boards over the siding and right on down over the belt trim...as well as over the frieze trim. It gives a nice look...and I can get ALL the trim on while the walls are flat! That means....no ladder work, even on two story walkouts!

   THATS WHAT I'M TALKIN BOUT!

   Cons: YOu have to be more careful nailing....sunken nails will be entry points. It is more susceptable to water damage. It has only a 6" reveal....hardie is 7".

   I used both on the Lake Huron house...hey...if it's free, and I need it...I'll use anything! You really can't tell that there's two styles unless your're looking hard.

   Blue

   If you want to read a fancy personal signature...  go read someone else's post.