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I recently removed a great deal of ceramic tile from an old bathroom in my house. I have made several unsuccessful attempt at removing the mastic and green board bits that are still attached to the back of the tile. Does anyone have a hot idea/time proven technique that is successful? I appreciate all advice.
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Try brush cleaner, the dissolve-anything solvent to rescue paint brushes that have dried hard. It worked to clean up a few tiles i had to re-set, but it may depend on what type of "mastic" you have. Let it soak and scrape it off; probably best to test one first to see what it does to the glaze. Don't forget ventilation.
You might be able to soften the goo with a heat gun and remove it with a scraper, too--haven't tried that, just an idea.
*belt sander- course belts- sand the mastic flat- you'll never get it all off- use a wider tooth when you re-apply-little thicker mortar bed- I've done it quite recently it works...
*Splintergroupie did point this out, I just want to add my warning. BE CAREFUL WITH SOLVENT BECAUSE IT MAY SCREW UP THE GLAZE.Okay, for mastic removal, try freezing it with dry ice, then when it's back to room T scrape easily. I sure wouldn't sand the mastic because it'll clog the paper real fast and/or just roll around when hot from friction but not lose it's bond. A real exercise in futility. Working with a heat gun may work, but you have to be careful about overheating the tile if it's glazed.What type of tile and why do you want to save it?
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I recently had to salvage some tile from a shower.
I tried various methods of removing mastic. It just so happened that a couple of runs through the dishwasher & a flexible putty knife while the tile was still warm proved to be the best method or removing the old mastic.
NOTE: I would be wary of using any of the Citrus solvents as the oil base could negate--screw up--
the adhesion of subsequent mastics...
On the other hand, a couple more runs through the dishwasher would likely take care of that prob.
Not sure it will work for your situ...
Ally, aka, "Al" Dodds
(Good Luck...let me know if it works!!)
*I'm getting ready to put in ceramic tile in a basement bathroom. the floor is concrete, the wall is cinder block. will thin set morter adhere if i use a moisture blocking paint first? or should i skip it? i've had some minor leakage after heavy rains, but have solved most of this problem from outside with landscaping. thanks.
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actually they make a good point. the tile I sanded was set in mortar.
*James,Let them soak in vinegar overnight and you'll be surprised how much mastic will scrape off.Red dog
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I got a pile of tile too, that was laid with a mortar style grout. I was thinking about Muratic Acid. have not done it yet, I,m scared
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sanding works on mortar- i wouldn't lie...
okay i would, but not about this.
*Frank- what is going on with the walls? damp all the time? only when it rains? water actually running across the floor?
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Doug, the wall is damp only after a heavy rain. Sometimes a small puddle would accumulate.
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frank-
mind you i am not a tilesetter
the guy that does my work said no problem to adhere the tile to the waterproofing. but- if the waterproofing fails so will the tiling.
make the water go away from the outside in- not the other way.
kinda lengthy to explain how- maybe search archives-otherwise i'll try to help
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I have salvaged a lot of tile in process of repair. First soak it in water to soften any water soluble material. Then use a combo disc/belt upright sander with very coarse grit (about 40), sand off remaining adhesive or mortar. This is a very messy task. Provide ventilation, dust collection, wear a high quality mask (respirator) and thick gloves. Do not use a belt sander. Do charge a lot. Last time I did this it took about 6 hours to clean 20 sq ft of 4x4.
*Could anyone advise me as to durability and performance of roofing nailers? I'm a tile contractor and wish to start using one to fasten CBUs. Also what about source of high quality nails?
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Rich,
I like your solvent-free idea better than mine, but wondering about the freezing part: is it the dry ice that does something chemically to the mastic, or the temperature reduction itself that corrupts the adhesion? I was wondering because a house left unoccupied, winterized (no heat), would have tiles' mastic "frozen" in a MT winter. I've read about Liquid Nails losing its grip in northern applications of gluing down subfloor: is this along those lines? Do you think installed tiles could loosen from this kind of freezing? This will be an issue for me in about three months...
*hi michael. the last time I salvaged any tile was only the second time I have salvaged any tile. First time was floor tile, second time glazed 4x4 wall tile. both times I screwed a stop to a work bench, layed the tileon a scrap piece of wood so that the mortar to be removed was slightly higher than the stop and away I went with my belt sander.both times I cleaned slightly less than two hundred square feet in about six hours. Not much dust -it went in my shop vac- no heavy gloves since my fingers were perched safely on top of the sander.cleaned the edges with a random orbit.it worked for me.I have bostich roofing guns that work for me when I am unfortunate enough to have a roof to do. Generic nails always seem to jam in them...fairways and greensor some other happy trails
*Splinter, I think it works because the freezing causes the mastic to become brittle. Also, the mastic shrinks slightly so the bond is weakened. All adhesive mfgs recommend their products be protected from freezing. I don't think it's a very good idea to let the T drop to freezing, or nearly so, in a house.
*Thanks, food for thought and timely, too. Guess research is called for, maybe a different product would let me tile now and let the house sit over winter.
*Splinter, I wouldn't plan on installing interior finishes until the house is all buttoned up. One, finishes can be too easily damaged if there is major work still going on inside. Then, if the house is tight, do you think the inside T will drop to the exterior T? That's assuming the house is insulated and built to some semblence of code.
*Yes, house will be insulated with what it has now, 3 1/2 FG, plus i'm adding 1 1/2 blueboard over sheathing before re-siding with Hardieplank. (Nothing in attic and i need advice, but i'm scared to ask now!) But this is MT, and it gets to -30 where i live, so it would surely go below "merely" freezing inside.I thought the manufacturer's caution about freezing applied just to material not yet cured. Still haven't had time to check this out further. I planed to do a room at a time, starting bathrooms, work my way out to the foyer... my next home, not for a customer, so i can be flexible, however--not like there's any shortage of things to do!i Some semblance of codeShe was built in late 30's or early 40's, i'm guessing. Moved it (because i'd never done that before), plopped down absolutely square after a 35-mile ride. Perfect straight walls, coved ceilings, 2x8 ceilings over a 16-foot spans, rock-solid except for a few cracks in the plaster to skim coat. Too bad Roman brick didn't survive--i'm a sucker for that retro stuff.
*i I thought the manufacturer's caution about freezing applied just to material not yet cured.Splinter, this is correct. However, during installation and until fully cured, you should keep the ambient no less than 50F, preferably 70F. And if installing over any concrete slab, make sure the slab is above 50F. A space heater works fine, but avoid CO fumes. I don't remember how and why exactly, but the CO "kills" the cure.
*Thanks, Rich. Of course, if these forest fires get any closer, i may get to rebuild from the ground up!
*Are you in Montana? Have a friend outside of Hamilton.
*Me Mum is, too, has the second-biggest fire in the area about 3-4 miles from her place--we have an evacuation plan if it comes to that. Hamilton is 30 miles to south of me, getting the worst of it from local fires and also smoke coming from Idaho fires on southerly winds--Stage II and even III air alerts have been called--stay indoors, shut windows, no exercise. (MT. St. Helens was the only "IV" i've heard of.)People have been fantastic! Cancelled fair, turned fairgrounds into refugee camp for animals; they now have to turn down offers of help and supplies for people and animals, so much flowed in. Pretty proud of your buddy and the others!
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I recently removed a great deal of ceramic tile from an old bathroom in my house. I have made several unsuccessful attempt at removing the mastic and green board bits that are still attached to the back of the tile. Does anyone have a hot idea/time proven technique that is successful? I appreciate all advice.