anybody use “Max-Rib” galvalume roofing?
Megunticook
| Posted in General Discussion on
Anybody have any experience with a metal roofing product called Max-rib?
Here’s the manufacturer’s description:
http://www.mcelroymetal.com/content/products/display.cfm?product_id=19
Am considering this for a shed, wondering about ease of installation, longevity of paint, and general quality.
Replies
For a shed, almost anything is fine.
But I have the Ultra with Kynar paint on my house. fine stuff, easy to install if you order the right lengths, and the paint still looks new after about 9 years.
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I don't see the "Ultra" listed at their site.
Please steer me in the right direction.Are there any pitfalls to attempting this on a hip-roofed residence ?
Most of the residence examples shown seem to have gable ends.
Ours is an L-shaped 1950's era brick ranch that is crying out for a green metal roof and should be due for a new roof in a year or two.Thanks.
Look again. It's right there on the linked page. With hips, you need to plan carefull on cuts to avoid waste. What comes off one hip can be used on another if you pay attention. otherwise, you will end up with laps backasswards or mucho waste.
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Hey P...I know it has been beaten to death, but what method do you use to cut the hips? Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"We adore chaos, because we love to restore order"
Mauriets Chavailier Escher
Tin snips if just a couple - but for a whole roof, I cut from back side with a plywood blade in the circ saw, gloves, long sleeves, and eye/ear protection
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thanks for that. We have a tuffie coming up. The garage is dryvit and the steel roofing is embedded, the guys that did the tear off left it alone (thank god), so we need to cut it and get our copper to blend in...we didn't run it by seeyou yet as to how we are gonna deal with it....my main point was about what I an gonna do with some steel I bought for a shed roof.
Lord knows I can wrangle the snips, but when it is my day off, I wanna be lazy and saw it..LOL
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"We adore chaos, because we love to restore order"
Mauriets Chavailier Escher
You should not be using a saw as the metal shavings will burn the paint and cause a rust spot. I cut all metal roofing with tin snips.
You think the raw unpainted cut edge made by snips won't rust? That'd be a bad assumption. besides, the cuts on hips are up under the hip and ridge cap where the only moisture the product will see is from atmosphere and not free water.but for valleys, a nibbler is the best choice, not for rust concern, but because the pressure spread from snips will stretch the pattern out in aloacation where it is hard to reform to size.
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I'm referring to the little pieces of metal thrown off by the saw. But on Pensacola Beach, stainless shows rust spots in three weeks. Its not the edges and on the valleys here they are siliconed.
Oh, you mean the loose shavings spun off and landing on the metal surface? That is why I cut from the backside. no free shavings see the top surface that way.
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Should have read this before replying. Of course, as soon as you turn your back the help is sawing it top side up.
re - Look again. It's right there on the linked page.-----thank-you !i clicked away from the linked page thinking your choice was entirely different from the original poster's.i occasionally walk on the roof to blow out the gutters, etc and for easier access for trimming the wysterial that creep over onto the roof from the pergola.
(it's low-pitched and i'm careful about not knocking loose the granules on the asphalt shingles and don't do this on a hot day.)besides the dangers of slipping, is metal roof less forgiving on being walked on (carefully?).
your soles should be clean ( your soul should too before climbing up on a roof) crepe or gum rubber. The metal can handle it better than you can, but walking with grit on the soles can scratch the paint, and make things more slippery
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re - your soul should too before climbing up on a roof-------I couldn't agree more :-)And thanks for the shoe sole suggestion.I'm mainly concerned about imperfections projecting through if I step on a bad spot.
Even with a perfectly smooth underlayment there might be an occasional spot where this could happen, similar to vinyl floors.Anyway, there are three things I'm looking into;1. Metal roofing.
2. Installing it on a decking elevated on sleepers on top of the main roof decking, introducing air channels on the outside of the envelope.
3. No venting in the attic that will be thoroughly sealed and insulated. I'm guessing, with proper details, #2 will help offset it.I vaguely recall #2 addressed in one of my FH issues.Architectural asphalt shingles would be a more conventional choice for our area and concrete/masonry shingles are out of the question and overkill.
The #2 detail seems to be an interesting detail even for asphalt shingles if the additional cost is not a factor.Sorry about getting nerdy over all these details.
Unless you are really overweight and plan to jump up and down on this roof, you can walk on it. Best to step where the sleepers and fasteners are.Since you are serious about details, here's acouple suggestiopns,Be sure to lay out the sleepers consistently and even. Then stack the metal and calc the fastener locations, couble check your self, clamp the pile, and predrill it all, with a bit slightly larger than the size of the faster you will be using. McElroy and others push the 1/4" heads with about a #10 shank, but I prefer to use the 5/16" heads with the heavier shanks toprevent breakage and the greater displacement of wood grants better hold down. Drilling oversize hioles and using the larger screws reduces the number the back out or break. pay attention too to their literature explaining how tight to drive the screw and how to lap the seams... Over or under driving them will make it hard for the neoprene washer to seal it watertight. Drive straight in too. An angled seat for that washer lets water in. predrilling makes it easier to do this, and it saves scratches on the surface when a screw runs away from th edrill trying to start it. My favorite advantage of predrilling is that all the faseners line up nice and straight across the run of the roof when you are done and step back to look at it.
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I like that. Commonsense that is so uncommon. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"We adore chaos, because we love to restore order"
Mauriets Chavailier Escher
Thanks so much for taking the time to share important details, especially the pre-drilling and upping the head/shank sizes and oversizing the holes.As for the sleepers, I was thinking about a two-layer decking with the sleepers going between them.
The steel roofing would then be screwed down to the outer layer and the air channels would run between the decking.
With the addtional outer layer of decking I'm hoping this will help reduce the radiant heat gain in the attic.
Is this foolish overkill ?I'll have to look at where the sleepers/fasteners end up if the roofing is screwed to the sleepers.
Seems if I step on the flat part between the standing seams, that would be where the airgap is between the roofing and the deck.Sorry about the ignorance in the finer details.
I'm digging up the FH issue that has the steel roofing article and will spent more time at the McElroy site.
it sounds like you are saying that you plan the roof this way - Joists, Sheathing, Sleepers, Sheathing, metal roof, with tarpaper and insulation the right places.Idon't consider the second ply of sheathing necessary, but if you are detail oriented or anal enough to let a minor bit of telegraphing bother you, you should go ahead and do it.But for reducing heat in the attic, do this - joists, Sheathing, 1" or 1-1/2" foam, Sleepers, metal roofing ( with the second ply of sheathing there if you want it. I run my sleepers horizontally so maybe that is where we have a bit of confusion.
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re - But for reducing heat in the attic, do this - joists, Sheathing, 1" or 1-1/2" foam, Sleepers, metal roofing ( with the second ply of sheathing there if you want it.
-----Thanks for the tip.I think the only reason I'm thinking of running the sleepers vertically oriented is for convective airflow between the two layers of sheeting or under the roofing.
If there is to be an outer layer of sheeting it would also serve the purpose of a flat surface to lay down the roofing.I'm probably getting too bogged down on being able to step around the roof and will come to my senses when reality hits.The above suggestion makes more sense and I appreciate your help.
I got max rib on my house, screwed every two feet on top of 3/4 plwood covered with tar paper. Of those around here that used sleepers or purlin, they lost their roof in the hurricane.
re - Of those around here that used sleepers or purlin, they lost their roof in the hurricane.
------Wow - interesting twist.We don't get severe hurricanes in our area but that is something to consider.
Vinyl siding or poorly constructed roofs have been damaged but not enough to peel off an entire roof.
Trees do get toppled.
Your mention of heat gain issues reminds me of a system a neighbor is putting in, where he's putting PEX tubing between the decking and the metal roofing on the southern facing half of the roof. This turns the roof into a big solar heat collector, which he'll use for domestic hot water. Cheaper than standard solar panels, simpler and more robust.
Don
re - putting PEX tubing between the decking and the metal roofing on the southern facing half of the roof.
-------very interesting.
with proper precautions it would be a very effective supplement.
thanks for the great tip.
my luck I would screw through the tubing
re - my luck I would screw through the tubing--------yeah, likewise, especially if it's on a hot-n-steamy day on the roof.
Got my Max-rib order in this week, all precut to my specs., looks like a fairly easy install.But in reviewing the installation literature carefully I notice they call for sealant tape where the seams overlap, and also at the eaves along with "closures" to seal up the channels in the panels. This is essential, I presume? Nobody at McElroy that I talked with or Viking Lumber mentioned those, and I'd explained that this was a first time for me and I needed a little guidance. What do you do on yours, Pif? Is any old sealant tape OK, or a particular brand? I guess the "closures" need to be ordered from McElroy? I hate to delay getting my roof on another couple weeks to wait for this stuff to get shipped up here. But no sense in rushing things only to deal with drips in the shed some stormy night.Thanks for your advice.Creative Communications | Logos | Business Cards | Websites | http://www.hwaters.com
Edited 11/20/2005 11:21 am ET by Megunticook
The double sided seal tape is for less than 3/12 pitchThe closures top and bottom keep insects out. neither totally necessary for a shed
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Thanks--I was wondering whether I really needed that with my pitch.
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I got max rib too, no sealer strip, house is 5/12, front porch is 2/12. two hurricanes, no leaks.2+3=7
I just read the entire thread,but saw no mention of price per square.Can you give me an idea of what it is and what product you ended up using?
I've got 6 3/4 square, bill is $940, so that's about $140/square.This is Max-rib ultra, the galvalume product with the Kynar finish.Creative Communications | Logos | Business Cards | Websites | http://www.hwaters.com
Edited 11/21/2005 9:31 am ET by Megunticook
wow! I knew steel had gone up but... When I used it on mine 6-7 years ago, it was about 72 plus accessories, maybe 85 total/sq
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Ouch, you're making me feel like I got soaked!The steel market is definitely firmly in the hands of the sellers at this point, I'm sure that's part of it. Of course, 6-7 years is also enough for a healthy dose of inflation, plus fuel prices are notching prices up too.Incidentally, it was cheaper than Maibec cedar shingles, which are $160/square from Viking (that's undipped B grade--I think dipped A's cost more like $185, but not sure on that).But I'm thinking lifetime cost being lower than cedar or asphalt. Would be interesting to do a 50, 75, and 100-year comparison.Been wrapping up my firefighter training this fall, too, and from that perspective a metal roof is the ultimate. Just another little factor that was in my head.
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Ouch, you're making me feel like I got soaked!
That sounds like a good price to me. Normally, when I bid steel (kynar 24 ga hidden fastener) against copper, the steel is 10%-15% less. Birth, school, work, death.....................
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three years ago, 1200sq ft. $1400 thats metal, flashing, screwed, delivered2+3=7
Brownbagg...how did you flash around that chimney?
through thr roof with one of those chimney top hats type deal. 2+3=7
it is still cheap in a cost persq ft per year basis. Dipped #1s are closer to 200
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Pif--couple quick questions on the max-rib installation.How did you detail your gable end rakes? Did you just run the panel over a drip edge or did you use one of McElroy's rake trim pieces? And did you overhang the panel at all on the rake? How about overhang on the eaves? I was thinking an inch or so on the eaves would suffice, with drip edge underneath.And did you stop the panel short an inch or two from the ridge? thanks
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since they 'fixed' this site, I am not getting email notifications for several hours now. Just found this via accident.I used their drip edge, though you wouldn't need it for a shed.
I used a two inch overhand at bottom and a couple at top. I stapled screen over the gap for ridge venting first.At the rakes, i used their trim and cut the panels right at the edge. The face of the rake trim is something like 3-4" tall so I screwed into the face of it on the fascia as well. Can shoot pictures in a day or two. Going over to hospoital tomorrow to keep the doctors busy.
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since they 'fixed' this site, I am not getting email notifications for several hours now. Just found this via accidentDon't feel like the lone ranger and it ain't no several hoursmore like a day on my end.
Thanks for the details. I have some of their rake trim on backorder, but looking at the profile in their catalogue I'm scratching my head a bit about how to mate the two pieces where they meet just below the ridge on the rake. If you don't mind, shoot a quick picture of how you handled that detail as well.Can't wait to get this roof on--we got a good soaking yesterday. Broomed off half an inch of standing water from the shed deck this morning.Hope you're not keeping the doctors TOO busy. . .
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That detail is two stories up in the air and it is getting darkl out now. I have no zoom on my camera.But all you do is cut the vertical face of it at the pitch of the roof, similar to the way you do the fascia, but leave it about 3/4" long so the two meeting have an inch and a half to over lap and put a screw there. at top side, they can just meet. The ridge will cover there. Maybe lapp the ridge a half inch over
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BTW, that includes a bunch of flashing for the eaves, rakes, transition from 12:12 to 6:12 (shed roof overhang on south side to cover firewood), ridge cap, etc. The panels themselves were only $600.Creative Communications | Logos | Business Cards | Websites | http://www.hwaters.com
Edited 11/21/2005 5:18 pm ET by Megunticook
Wow from me, too, on that price.
The last steel roofing I bought was Fabral's 24 gage SSR standing seam panel, Kynar finish, bought in '03, paid about $160 per square.
I got in touch with McElroy regional office in Virginia and they hooked me up with one of their distributors.A rep will help with the details and McElroy will dropship the stuff at $75 fixed charge, about 200 miles.
I think that's excellent.
They can also supply commercial style large capacity gutters.I may 'practice' on a simple gable ended house we own and then graduate onto our hip roof.
Both will need new roofing in the next several years.
Both are one story at street level and reasonably pitched to be safe to work on. (I do have a climbing harness if needed.)Thanks so much for your help answering my rookie questions.I think at least one advantage of steel roofing is being able to install even during cooler weather unlike asphalt shingles.
secret: tennis shoe, chauk line, 5/12 pitch, dont mix.