Hey just wondering if any of the guys in here do any drive-it finishes (or stow or whatever brand)
In the midwest, it seems like the fastest growing market……everyone is putting it on. I’m pretty new to the stuff….we are building a custom loft apartment and doing and interior drive it job. We’re doing between the rafters (Rafters painted grey with the finish coat between them a off whiteish color) and covering over some brick walls. Drive it brand was all locked down in our area, couldn’t get any of it so we got a system called sonowall…..pretty good stuff i think.
The guy i’m working with on this installed this stuff for 15 years or something like that, so i’m learning the ropes from him.
Anybody here do this stuff? What’s your thoughts, comments/ complaints. I know that dateline had a hay day with it a while back, falling off places, but i heard that was mostly failure to flash it properly.
Also, anybody do any cool trim details? Pictures?
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When I did plastering we would get a dryvit job once in a while. The stuff is pretty nasty to get out of any clothing and you should wear gloves. It's basically a thick epoxy paint with a sand agregate. I would rather use real stucco. There were all kinds of law suits against the stuff up and down the east coast a few years back which I'm sure are still in limbo. I don't like it because it's not that well time tested.
Yeah, i've found out the hard way about not coming out of clothes......I've also heard you gotta be careful when mixing base coat, to not breath any dust cause it contains silicone...
This stuff shure seems to go on faster than stucco (and easier on wood framed houses) Your right about the test of time, but then again in my town, there is some stuff, maybe 15 years old that is in great shape. A couple of water stains and thats about all thats wrong with it--
If you're talking about DryVit aka synthetic stucco aka EIFS, there have been a lot of problems with it over the years, and lots of finger pointing between the manufacturers and the installers.
And, lots of litigation*
The problem is primarily with wood framed buildings: any water that gets behind the EIFS is trapped inside the framing and often(? - always? sometimes?) leads to rot, decay and mold.
Newer EIFS formulations have a drainage channel on the back side of the foam to avoid that problem.
There are lots of ways to screw up with it. The most common problem I see (and it is common) is lack of kick-out flashings.
Detailing on the bottom edges is next, and less than perfect caulk jobs.
As noted, there has been lots of litigation -- maybe because there are too many shysters out there (I'm a "shyster in recovery<G> - now doing home inspections) or maybe because people aren't happy when the detailing on their dream home has been screwed up and the framing is rotted and moldy.
Go figure!
Even if the guy you learned under is doing it right, to save yourself from litigation (which hurts, even when you're right) or help yourself when it is threatened, I would (i) get manufacturer's training (if available) and, on every job, take photos of the potentially problematic details to CYA. (Of course, if you're cutting corners and crossing your fingers, forget the photos <G>)
I can guarantee you that when you get the call from the client's lawyer telling you your in the sights, when you answer,"Well, exactly where is the problem, I'll check my photos of the job" there will be a silent "gee whiz" or "gosh darn" on the other end of the conversation.
I've heard nothing but complaints about the stuff, and seen serious leaks in large buildings.
I thought it was on the way out for sure. Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Dear Mr. Shyster in recovery. I love it, but careful what you call yourself. Others may take it and run with it.
Good advice about the dryvit though. Photos for something like this are always a must.
>>Dear Mr. Shyster in recovery. I love it, but careful what you call yourself. Others may take it and run with it.May? There are some folks here who can't get past that fact.
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Sojourners: Christians for Justice and Peace
Thanks for the advice bro............On this perticular job its all interior, so i shouldn't have any flashing problems. Taking photos of the before, during and after of just about any job seems to be a good idea......if not just as a reminder to tight wad homeowners who you are on the edge of selling a job to.........Don't you remember how your bathroom looked before...?
But seriously thankx for the advice.
I had STO put on my dormer. Much cheaper than stucco and I had trouble finding a stucco guy that knew what he was doing and had time for me. My only problem is one hairline crack that would have been prevented by an expansion joint. But, its a sixty year old house and the crack would be there if it were 60 YO stucco, so I'm over it.
If you haven't drawn blood today, you haven't done anything.