Replies

1. 
   pcg | May 21, 2000 05:16am | #2

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   i prefer a 2 srpe that is a full shingle then 6" off. yet the manfactures usually dont agree...... is that because they want more waste so you buy more shingles I dont know overr 14 years of roofing i' ve never had a problem using this method

2. 
   Guest_ | May 21, 2000 01:22pm | #3

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   Tom,
   It is possible to get several different textures,using the same shingle but different pattern layouts. The pitch of the roof,the pattern you lay,the direction and angle the shingles will usually be seen from will all impact how the shingles look. AS PCG notes the offset the manufactures reccomend are highly wastefull.The brand I am currently using reccomends a pattern using a full shingle then one with 5 5/8" removed,then one with 11 1/4" removed.Use of these exact dimensions seems impractical.

   I won't suggest a pattern to you because I think you should experiment a little untill you find a texture that you like.I will say that I have most commonly seen these shingles laid using approximately a 6" stairstep pattern with the cut-offs worked right in to the pattern.Using that pattern ,a simple 15-20 sq. roof can be done with so little waste that the scraps will barely fill a 5 gallon bucket.

   By the way,have you noticed how the dimensional shingle manufacturers RAPE you with their pricing of hip and ridge cap?

   Good Luck All,Stephen

1. 
   Guest_ | May 23, 2000 05:52am | #4

   *The Iko shingles I bought suggested full, 8", 16", 24" then back to full. I guess if I have time and patience, I'll play around with the pattern. I just put them on randomly with the suggested offset and it looks fine. 5 5/8, 11 1/4, I think the mainufacturer is trying to make you waste more or to convince you that their product deserved much details in installing. Don't you cut you ridge and hip cap from 3-tabs?

1. 
   Guest_ | May 23, 2000 02:03pm | #5

   *Tom,The color I am using does not come in a 3 tab shingle.Nothing close in any of the commonly available manufacturers,so I am forced to buy the special Hip & Ridge caps which cost about $20/bundle and only covers about 20 lineal feet/bundle.Also,It is a 40 year shingle.Check this out:When I posted the 5 5/8",11 1/4" cutoff dimensions they were taken directly from a bundle that happened to be laying in the back of my truck.Yesterday,I looked at another bundle---same brand,same style,same color----used on the same job,and the wrapper recommends a 10",and 20" cutoff.I conclude that we can choose our own appropriate offsets and that it will work fine as long as we are consistent.Good Luck All,Stephen

1. 
   Guest_ | May 23, 2000 02:56pm | #6

   *steve et al....sometimes the recommended offset has to do with the pattern of the particular shingle..there are some offsets that can make the roof <<>> in appearance...some of the mfr's know this and their instructions should be followed.. others may or may not have a valid reason for their cut-offs / offsets...i have seen zippered roofs on some of our work and that was the explanation i was given....that we had chosen the wrong offset for that particular architectural pattern...on some of our hip and ridge, we use a contrasting 3-tab or a complimentary color...so we might be using a Timberline 30 year architectural in say ((cedar)) and for the hips and ridge we'll use a 30 year 3-tab in ((heather)) or ((sienna))... BTW.. we're using a lot of the Hatteras, which is an 8 inch tab and 8 inch exposure....their hip and ridge accessory is a 12 inch....which we use for the ridge..but on most of our hips we use the 8 inch tab...

1. 
   Guest_ | May 24, 2000 12:51pm | #7

   *Mike,I haven't noticed that zippered appearance with the brand I commonly use,nor have I seen it on anyone elses roofs---so we must be safe.What I have found is that on occasion the offset will cause two shingles to line up in such a way that they appear "identical" not random.You can also,on occasion,get some less than pleasing effects if you rack these straight up the roof.I once used a product from Certainteed which was actually a 3 tab shingle that had some "extra" strips glued on to it.I realized that some weird effects were possible so I started on the back of the house and roofed one side of a sunroom according to the package,and the other side of the sunroom with a different layout.The customer greatly prefered the "different "layout and so thats what I used on the rest of the house.RE: caps. I don't mind using a 3 tab in a similar color for ridge caps since they don't really show,but the "close,but not close enough" colors on hip caps bother me.BTW I have been wondering about the Hatteras shingles for about a year now.I see the promotional lit. In the trade magazines but have not seen this shingle actually used in my area yet.Gotta love the Hatteras name though,since the Outer Banks have been my families prefered vacation destination for about 35 years.good Luck All,stephen

2. 
   Guest_ | May 25, 2000 07:37am | #8

   *The 5-5/8" step allows you to use the same gauge that you use for vertical exposure. Just started re-roofing my house yesterday with OC and decided to try their recomended method. Easy enough install and on my 4/12 who will ever know.

3. 
   Guest_ | May 26, 2000 07:10am | #10

   *Helped a contractor buddy do his house with genstar brand last year. Seems like the pattern we used was something like 4-1/4, 8-1/2, 12-3/4,,etc. once you hit the 4th one, the scraps make the rest of the pattern and you wind up with 9 rows ready to go. I'm not sure if my numbers are right, but maybe you get the drift anyway.wedge

3. 
   Guest_ | May 26, 2000 07:10am | #9

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   what is the usual offset of architectural shingles? 1/6 as in 3-tabs? 1/3 or 1/2? Or doesn't matter?

   Thanks.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 17, 2000 06:49am | #1

   *Shingle packaging is covered with instructions. Read them. Joe H