Replies

1. 
   nigel_martin | Nov 28, 1999 09:04am | #1

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   What you suggest is the route I would take. I have worked jobs this way and the wall is very solid once the glue has set.

2. 
   Guest_ | Nov 28, 1999 10:01am | #2

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   Not enough info. Frans but always remember: God hates a coward!!!

   Realistically, there are a couple of ways you can determine with reasonable certainty how close the tube is to the surface.

   BTW, IMHO tube belongs at the bottom of the pour(but fully surrounded with crete). It doesn't take much penetration to anchor a base plate for a wall.

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 28, 1999 11:38am | #3

   *Jeff,Could you explain your preference for having the tubes at the bottom? What if the slab in question is 9' below grade? Also, if the tubes are tied to WWF would you just let it lie on the subgrade and cover with concrete?TIA,Jerry

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 28, 1999 05:51pm | #4

   *I use NP-1 urethane. Had to shift a wall once two weeks after being set. Used a sledge hammer and 3 foot crow bar to remove sole plate, Spalled the concrete in 3-4 places; up to 3/8" deep.

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 28, 1999 09:34pm | #5

   *Jerry,All of my calculations are done with the tubing in the bottom third of the slab because regardless, unless you are using rebar and sufficient chairs, that is where the tubing ends up anyhow. It really doesn't matter whether you are 9' below grade or 9' above grade. It is important however to lift the WWF as you are pouring to get full contact with the surface of the tube. To aid in faster response and reduce the size of the boiler, I always spec at least 1" of thermal insulation under the entire slab in residential systems. Certain types of commercial applications benefit from the added thermal mass and omitting insulation on all but the vertical edge of the slab and the 2-4' perimeter. In these cases a huge heat sink is created that acts as a thermal flywheel when large doors are open for extended periods of time. Each project should be designed based on intended use. Little details such as the possibility of future remodel and placement of walls make keeping the tube in the bottom third a logical choice for my designs.

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 28, 1999 10:04pm | #6

   *Use a 25 ga. steel track and steel studs. All it takes to secure track to the floor is with 3/4" track pins.You can also insert wood studs into the track if you don't like working with steel.

2. 
   Guest_ | Nov 29, 1999 07:47am | #7

   *Absolutely excellent suggestion cc. One that I will incorporate into my future projects.Thanks,Jeff

3. 
   Frans_Trouw | Jan 04, 2000 11:46pm | #8

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   I am partitioning a half-finished basement which has an in-floor water heating system. How do I attach the new wall to the floor as I am afraid of hitting the heating system ?

   I am considering liquid nails to attach to the concrete floor, and shimming for a tight fit at the ceiling (i.e. depend on the ceiling for stability.

   Any comments or suggestions welcome.