I need to attach a dozen or so fiber cement shingles on the sides of a house that have come down over time.
Heres the thing, there is some type of ‘sheathing ” on the house that resembles DRYWALL!!! Anyone familiar with what this stuff is and why the heck it was used?
Thing is I need to attach to this stuff and it doesn’t allow the nails to grab. To make matters worse, the framing is at 24″OC.
So, any ideas on how to re attach these shingles and get them to hold? Stripping and residing is not an option.
Also on another note for my own FYI, how would one go about locating the studs in the wall from the OUTSIDE of the wall as opposed to the inside? Is there a technique suitable for this?
Mick
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Bump
"BUMP" ?????????????
That is a way to bump your post up to the top of the list again.I think they are just going to keep falling off. I've seen that gypsum sheathing before, it's not drywall. It is not good to attach anything to, because it's just gypsum.I guess you could use construction adhesive to adhere the shingles to the sheathing, with a couple nails to hold it till the adhesive cures.
Thanks for explaining the "bump"
So you think an adhesive like PL Premium would be the best way to go? It would just be adhering to the tar paper at that point, wouldn't it?
I was thinking of trying to get them into a stud somehow, which is why I was asking how is it possible to locate the studs from the exterior, if it is at all possible?
If you don't want to remove the building paper to see where the studs are, you can use a stud finder on the interior and just transfer the measurements.
Is finding one stud going to help?
No, it won't stick to felt. I thought there might be no wrap. Are these randomly missing like a shingle here and there, or in groups?It's possible to attach some stout sheet metal to the sheathing and screw the shingles to that.As to finding a stud, tap lightly on the wall till it sounds solid, then make a small hole. Stick a wire in the hole to find the stud if you missed it.
Yes , these are randomly missing shingles ,here and there.
How would you go about the "sheet metal" deal?
Attach the metal with screws into the stud, toggle bolts, mollies, drywal anchors etc. The metal will be attached where the mounting holes for the shingles are. Then drill holes through the existing holes in the shingle if possible into the metal for some screws to attach the shingles. Use stainless steel screws for mounting the shingles.Make sure the mounting screws for the sheet metal do not interfere with the plane of the shingle.
Edited 11/4/2009 5:23 pm ET by Dam_inspector
A "Bump" brings your thread back to the top of
everyone's list. That way you'll get more responses.
When I was a teen back in the latter 70's.... parents house had that same stuff with the asbestos/cement siding. Bottom perimeter absorbed moisture and buckled. House was only 10 yrs old at that time.
We all carefully pulled off the bottom perimeter to four feet high and replaced with 1/2 inch cdx? plywood. Reattached all siding. Added gutters and lowered the grading to eliminate moisture problem.
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?
> Heres the thing, there is some type of 'sheathing " on the house that resembles DRYWALL!!!
Gypsum sheathing.
> Also on another note for my own FYI, how would one go about locating the studs in the wall from the OUTSIDE of the wall as opposed to the inside?
If the carp who built the thing was sufficiently anal about measurements you find one stud and measure 16" to the next one. Or write down all the stud measurements on the inside and transfer the measurements to the outside, using a window as a reference between the two.
Otherwise you guess, drill a 3/32" hole, and probe with a piece of wire. Fill the holes with a squirt of caulk.
Thanks for replies guys.
The framing is 24"OC which really makes it almost impossible to catch a stud where the missing shingles are. Unfortunately the missing shingles fall outside stud locations.........of course!!!!!
I think my only choice is to use const. adhesive
You could probably peg them in place. Old technology, but it's an old house.
A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter
Can you explain the peg technique for me Dan?
Well, I've never done it, and it's been probably 35 years since I've seen a structure done that way, but basically you drill a hole through both the shingle and the mounting surface and drive a peg in. (I'm guessing pegs about 1/4" to 3/8" would be right for this project.) You could certainly "enhance" this ages-old technique and use some adhesive on the peg, of course.
A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter
How would this differ from using a nail?
More holding power in the gypsum sheathing.
A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter
After putting some more thought to it, I'm thinking I might try plastic anchors in the gypsum and then screwing them down.
Any thoughts?
The pegs (with glue) would work better, IMO. But that just MO.
A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter
I'm not familiar with "pegs" Are we talking wooden pegs? Are these store bought?
Seems to me the shingle would lift off the peg like they are doing now, eventually?
how do you obtain the hold down power with a peg?
Pieces of dowel rod. You could taper them if you were obsessive, but a dab of construction adhesive would be just as good.The large diameter (relative to a nail) yields a lot of surface to hold with.
A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter
Would they sit "proud" of the shingle, or would you tap thiem in flush?
Depends on whether you're proud of them or not. I'd make them flush.
A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter
It just seems to me that with the thin size of a fiber cement shingle and the peg with no "head", that the "forces" that loosened the shingles in the first place, would do the same with the peg, you don't think so? I dunno??
Maybe. You asked for suggestions and I gave you one.
A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter
Your suggestions are appreciated, just firin' back thoughts. Trying to think ahead.
Mick,Cut a slot about 4"x6" and slide the longest 1x4 you can in behind the sheathing. Use construction adhesive and screws to attach. Put the cut out back and refelt. Screw your siding to this with SS trim head screws.KK
That's an interesting idea.
What would be the proper way to "refelt" the area? It has to overlap, correct?
Slit the felt and slide a piece under so it overlaps the lower. Think like a drop of water.KK
Figured as much, just wanted to double check. Thanks