Installing azek 1/2 beadboard ceiling for a porch ceiling. Azek says 15 or 16 ga pneumatic fastners on 16in centers, supplier says ss trim screw. Has anyone found either choice to be more successful?
thanks
Installing azek 1/2 beadboard ceiling for a porch ceiling. Azek says 15 or 16 ga pneumatic fastners on 16in centers, supplier says ss trim screw. Has anyone found either choice to be more successful?
thanks
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Replies
I would shy away from the 16 ga for sure - virtually no head on fasteners.
15 ga is better because of increased head size.
I would be inclined to use the screws like your supplier suggested because of increased head size on a ceiling. "Pull through" restistance....
Have never used their beadboard on a ceiling, so I may be in the overkill mode of thinking.
Have used it vertically with 15ga - worked great.
Others will be along.....
Jim
pull through resistance is not a factor, the nail is hidden in the tongue and driven at an angle, like T&G flooring.Meanwhile, gravity pulling the piece down is working vertically, so it would need to bend the nail before the head ever started to pull through.You don't want to do this on a cold winter day when the Azec is brittle tho
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Thanks. I'd have preferred using 15 ga but after the initial blow-outs I wasn't sure if they'd actually cause more damage than the 16s. I'm only about 20ft in to an 800sf job so I'll probably try some 15s in areas that will be covered by crown just to see how they do.
I've used SS 16s to fasten Azek beadboard for soffit & it works fine. Don't see why it wouldn't work for a ceiling. You drive the nails at an angle through the tongue, like flooring, so there's little chance they'll pull out.
I would think the trim screws would work fine, but they may bust up the tongue a bit if you screw there. (One of the advantages of Azek BB is how s-w-e-e-t the sticks snug up. Mucking up the tongues could create issues there.) If you screw on the face, you'll have a lot of filling to do.
One tip -- Azek will bend on ya a lot more than wooden beadboard. Make real sure you get each stick snug & straight or you'll find yourself with a wacky last piece. I like to snap a chalk line every so often just to keep things honest.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
an open grain hemlock beaded ceiling ( 1/2 X 3+ ) goes for app $ 1.14 lineal foot here ( bare wood ) how much do you pay for azek? and is it same material as their say 5/4 X 10 material I have used? full on PVC
IIRC, it worked out to $3.50 or so per sq ft.
It's the same material as their other profiles/stock. It installs so nicely, I'll use it over the wood whenever I can.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
Thanks. I ended up switching away from the paslode gun to a pneumatic nailer with 2" ss 16 ga. and they seem to go in fine. I was a little apprehensive about the holding power but after tugging strenuously at the edges of several newly installed boards, I'm more confident. Being a "belt and suspenders" man I've got a couple of boxes of ss trim head screws for back up and starter boards. The project entails about 800 sf with an amazing number of angles. In starter sections I'll probably use screws and some of those cortex plugs for white azek trim.
cortex plugs for white azek trim.
Have you got a link for those?
We are having about 600 lf of Azek base installed on CMU walls. So far the trim guy is drilling a counter sink hole, then drilling through the base and block for tapcons. There is going to be a lot of filling to do.
The plugs sound like they may be a better approach.
http://www.fastenmaster.com/productdetails.aspx?catID=2&prodID=14
Thanks
Judging by other posts, I may be confused......
Is this beadboard individual sticks? Or is it sheet goods (what I thought originally)?
Jim
Hmmm, good Q.Azec makes both. All I have used is the T&G.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
T'was my point zactly!
I assumed sheet goods, seems like everybody else was on sticks.
Sticks? I'd go with the 15 or 16 ga stainless nails. Forget the screws!
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Last time I installed it we used ss brads and polyurethane glue.
Bigger problem was after it was done there was so much color difference in the product it had to be painted.
These are 18' sticks. There are a bazillion angles to this ceiling with some sections being close to 20' long, so this seems like a much better application for "sticks".
Sounds like sticks are the only way to go!
The sheet goods are very nice, if and only if, the run is 8' or less. Otherwise, you have a 4' butt seam which is impossible to hide,
and always looks like s.......
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Edited 9/20/2009 8:53 pm ET by JTC1
Sounds like you got your answers so I'll ask a coupla Qs... 1) 18' sticks on the ceiling - sounds like a definite 2 man job... 2) you said there are a lot of angles... What is the strategy for holding the miters tight, but at the same time allowing for expansion? Or maybe I'm over thinking it?
Screws offer more control, hold better, and are less inclined to blow out a corner of the Azek. Nails are faster and should hold just fine. I've used trim head screws, 15ga, 16ga, and 18 ga nails. Of all those, I would choose 16ga for the small head and fast install.
I also wonder if you're using sheet goods, or t&g...
I haven't used the sheet goods for overhead, but I have used t&g...
15 gauge fine, toed through the tongue, very solid.
Bing
I have done a lot of that with the 16ga gun and no problems.
SS trim head would show and leave you doing a lot of spackling
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
I've used 16 ga SS nails. Like others have said, I'd think screws would mess up the tongue so that the next groove would have a hard time mating with it.