I have been working on a 6 month old McMansion on and off since June, it is full of one of my pet peeves – every 15A switch and outlet is backwired.
Since I think that backwiring is a quick, but inferior method; every time I open a wall box and find a backwired device, I change it to the side terminals. ( I know I’ll hear from people about the virtues of backwiring, etc. — but I am old, my hair is gray and I was taught differently — so I change them!) On some occasions in this house, I have found feed through circuits made by using all 4 of the backwire holes — I pigtail those and change the outlet connections to the side terminals — I know – too fussy – but now the lights don’t visibly dim every time a switch is thrown.
The biggest problem is — How to release the backwire? I used to jam a very slim / narrow screwdriver into the release slot and it worked well on most styles of switches and outlets, but sometimes the slot was too narrow and the taper of the screwdriver blade kept it from releasing. SO — I made a tool from an 88 cent # 1 Phillips screwdriver by grinding it to the appropriate flat / narrow tip. Nice handle works great – easy to push and release.
Discovery – the “key” for the interior “privacy” door locks on this house will also work to release the backwires! The profile matches my custom tool and they work beautifully – if you only have one or two to do. My cheap screwdriver handle provides a much more comfortable grip for production work!
Thought some of you might like to know.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Replies
I certainly hope you are authorized to change the wiring.
Re: ..."I think that backwiring is a quick, but inferior method"...
In my not so humble opinion you are entirely correct and justified in this view. A considerable proportion of all service calls dealing with failed, inoperable or flaky receptacles or associated circuits is caused by 'quick', 'stab', 'back', 'iffy jiffy' wiring of receptacles. Particularly those circuits which are 20A.
Used to be most receptacles would accept #12 wire in the back wiring holes. Puts even more load on the tiny flat spring that holds the wire and makes the connection. More recently they have eliminated back wiring entirely for #12 by making the holes smaller.
It is hard to underestimate the determination and inventiveness of idiots so this modification of design has been only partially successful. I recently came across a set of back wired receptacles that had been replaced in the last year or so.
Evidently the receptacle/s went south and the 'handy hack' tried to replicate the old back wiring with the new receptacles designed not to take #12 wire. He, based on the physical evidence, tried several methods. The one I particularly liked was that he thinned the #12 down to #14 size by whittling it down and scraping. It looks like he found this too tiresome a method after a couple and resorted to widening the holes on the remaining connections. Looked like, based on the frass and uneven hole, he simply used a knife tip and spun it. I got called in when one of the replaced receptacles failed.
Good call on your part reworking the connections.
For releasing the stab connections I usually find I can use a back-forth wrist action while I gently pull the wires and the receptacle will 'walk' off the ends of the wire. If there is wire to spare and difficult connections I often, with the power off just cut all the wires in one go. I keep a couple of small flat blade screwdrivers, the little 1/8" ones that sell for around $1 at the check-out counter, and these, after some quick work to convert the tip from 'keystone' to cabinet profile, making the blade the same width as the shaft, work pretty well for releasing the quick-wire connections. I usually don't carry one in my pouch but bring one in if I'm facing a lot of these connections.
In a pinch an opened paperclip will often work as well but mostly I 'walk them off' or cut the wires simply because it is quick, doesn't require any special tools. I mostly do small service jobs and so only see one or two Jiffy connections at any one time so specialized tools are less handy.
Waste of time and effort to remove. Cut the wires off. Change the whole switch to a better grade. You know they used junk in the first place.
You might get justification for the "backwire" versions that are like the GFCI's with a side screw that retains them, most here call the poor practice you describe and correct as "backstab" or the other irreverent terms 4lorn used.
I believe you're referring to "spec grade" and "not backstab". If it were in the budget i'd always use spec grade.
What I was attempting to point out was many use the term backwire and backstab interchangeably. Pointing out that I did not think anyone here would try to justify backstab, but backwire is ok. Both are probably technically backwire. His comment was, "some will try to justify...".
Yes, I was about to jump in an make that distinction.Backstab bad, backwire good.
I release the backstab by sticking a screwdriver that's too big into the slot, and twisting it. That breaks the housing, releasing the wire, and has the added benefit of rendering the receptacle or switch henceforth unusable. ;)
Hey, that's my technique ROTFLMO :-)
The backstab recepts work well even under heavy loads.In fact all of the recepts in my house were 15amp backstab type. I installed them so I know they were installed according to the instructions with no special care taken.After 20 years the recpts and related wiring were examined. None of the recepts or wiring showed any damage. This includes one recept that was loaded to 13amps for 2 hours each week for 20 years.I expect those who have had problems wanted to have problems.
The only one (actually a switch) I've ever specifically had trouble with was one where the electrician had stabbed the wire into the release hole. (This was in my SIL's apartment, so I'm reasonably confident it was "professionally" wired. Though in the same apartment the plumber forgot to glue in the trap tailpiece for the kitchen sink.)I have, however, had that experience of pulling a backstabbed outlet from the wall and having the wire fall out. It doesn't inspire confidence.Plus I much prefer the "backwired" outlets for ease of installation/rework/etc.
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It's not just the backstab connection; everything about these parts are made as cheaply as possible. You have to be very gentle with them. They won't stand up to very many yank-the-vacuum-cleaner-plug-outta-the-wall-by-pulling-on-the-cord episodes. Spend a $1.50 more and you get a part that's immensely better.
Here is a question about stab-in connections that I have wondered about.
I have noticed some electricians using a wire (nut) connector that is a stab-in style.
The ones I've seen have 4 holes to poke wire into.
Are these made the same or are they better constructed than those in the back side of the recepticals? I'm assuming these cost more than wire nuts, so I can't say it is a case of the electrician looking for a quick and dirty way of getting the job done.
Terry
Those are relatively new and supposedly have passed all sorts of certifications that the backstab outlets haven't. Relatively little real-world experience behind them, but probably good.
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Those have been around for a long time actually. My company tried them out when WAGO first made them in the late eighties. I haven't really seen them around until recently when IDEAL started making them and marketing them heavily. They are made in two hole, four hole and other configurations.
IMO, they have a place. I use them occasionally when I am trying to add a pigtail to a very short wire and can't get a wirenut into the space. Or if I'm doing work on something hot and I want to insulate the hot wire and then reconnect to the circuit without exposing the live wire again.
I mostly use them when changing ballasts hot in commercial applications. I use the two wire ones. They are small, fast, make a good connection, and after I cut the hot and stick it into one of these, I never have to have a live wire exposed again while I'm working in the fixture.
I don't use them as a general practice because I don't trust them for big loads.If you haven't drawn blood today, you haven't done anything.
I have carefully demolished two types of stab in the back types of receptacles. The heart of either is a piece of brass. In one, the brass is a long, flat spring with a round wire sized arc in the end. Not much contact area there. This was a newer version. The older brass thing was arranged to form an angle and then there was a spring which presses the wire into the crotch of the angle. This seems to make a better contact is is similar to what the WAGO and other types use.
I've made drawings but they are in TurboCad so it isn't worthwhile posting them. If anybody is interested in converting them, e-mail me. Subject: Breaktime, TurboCad, WAGO.
~Peter
I agree with you, I have no problem with the recpt. It is the use of that connection. As has been said before, in places where things get plugged in and left they are usually ok and even then so you replace a .59 piece in 15 years. For the heavy use and load applications the spec grade make more sense. I have the lesser ones and have no problems. I always pig tail and side wire when replacing ones I find with the push-in connections.
You have been fortunate. Many others have not. None of my customers who lost part of a circuit due to the passthroughs being made through the stab connections "wanted a problem." They wanted their electricity back!Bill
Clarification on my original post - I meant back stab - although I am attracted to 4lorn's "iffy jiffy" - catchy may use that one.
I was not meaning to criticize the wiring connection on many of the GFCI outlets, one only needs a standard screwdriver to release the wire from them!
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Understand, if you look at the cost difference between a whole house worth of spec grade and the usual $.59 version it does not make sense for the homeowner but for someone doing a tract of spec houses the diff is profit. I still contend that the cheaper ones are adequate for most applications.
My reason for getting in this was the original comment about folks here justifying "backwire". IMHO there is no reason in good conscience to use the standard backstab, we are on the same sheet of music.
Edited 10/18/2005 6:51 am ET by rasconc
I think the main advantage of backstab is the speed/ease of wiring, but screw-tightened backwired are just about as fast and probably easier to use.When you look at overall costs, it's easy to justify some sort of non-traditional termination technique based on labor savings. The cost difference of the outlets themselves is swamped by the labor costs.I don't know what the error/failure rate is of new work wiring (failures being due to bad connections, wires that slipped off screws, etc), but if it's at all common then screw-tightened backwred outlets would be price-justified based on their higher probability of a good connection. Trouble-shooting is very expensive.
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No electrons were harmed in the making of this post.
The best way i've found to release those is either like 4lorn1 said (by wiggling) or the small screw driver method.
A final method (and the reason I hate them), would be simply remove the recepticle from the box. I've removed more than a few and the wires just simply slid out of the holes. I'd much rather take the time to use the screws and not have any worries.