Not too long ago I put out a post about shaping the ends of some 6×12 cedear beams. Got a lot of good feedback from everyone here. Thank you.
The conclusion was that I would mark my end detail on the beam, remove the bulk of the waste with a bandsaw and then make the final detail cut with a router and template. I agree 100%. But I am having a hard time finding a portable bandsaw for rent with a minimum 5.5″ cutting capacity in the MD / DC area.
Does anyone know where I could rent one in this part of the country?
I saw the one for sale at TIMBERWOLFTOOLS.COM and that would be great but my partner shot it down when he saw it was at least $2200.00. And I agree because it probably won’t get any use after this.
Any other alternative methods / tools for removing waste prior to routing. Really not optimistic about using a sawzall, chainsaw, etc… Sloppy, inaccurate, control issues. Any ideas would be appreictaed.
Thanks.
Replies
I do not think that anyone with a bandsaw would be too eager to rent it to anyone else. However, you might be able to get a millwork operation to do the work for you.
Yeah, I'll have to do some research on the millwork option.
My issue is that I originally planned on shaping one end of the beam off-site, taking it to the site and getting an exact measurement before shaping the other end. (Tne beams will sit on brick columns which have just been installed) This way I don't cut anything short if the real life dimensions are way different than the drawings. But it does require me to cut the other end on site. I did already check out the site and there have been some changeses from the drawings. I guess I could make templates for each beam. But this whole plan of action would make it tough to work a millwork operation into the mix.
Maybe my original thought process is not efficient enough though. It probably would be better to build a template for each individual beam to reduce the amount of moving I have to do with these almost 200lb beams. Just cut the first few according to the templates, test fit and if everything goes smooth run with that technique. It's just a little risky with such high dollar stock and long lead times if I make a mistake and need to replace a piece that was cut short.
Thanks for your feedback
Could you use a "stationary" band saw on 4 swivel casters?
Elevate the beam to the proper height and clamp them down. Then bring the "stationary" band saw into the work.
Could pick up a used bandsaw of that type for $100 to $150 without looking too hard.
Along similar lines, I was thinking he could just buy a small stationary bandsaw and use it upside down...that's basically all the timberframe bandsaws are.$2200 is FN nuts. I don't understand why anyone would pay that much...most of the timberframe tools are outrageously overpriced. For half that price, I could custom build you a portable bandsaw and still make hefty profit.GK
Seriously? $1100? I'd like to order one.
Are you kidding me!?!?
I'm absolutely serious. I can and would build this for $1100.
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There was a post a while back from someone with the same problem.
He used a sawzall with a long blade.
The guy on the other side had a crescent wrench on the blade so he could steer the blade on his side.
The guy on the other side keeps everything going fine so you don't cut into or to far away from the line.
If you aren't sure if it will work try a test piece. Draw your patern and try it.
You won't lose anything except the price of a long sawzall blade and a few inches off your timber. They are a bit long anyway.
You should be able to remove the bulk of the waste with careful work using a small chainsaw if the profile isn't overly complex. Clean it up as planned with the router.
I try to sell a simple cut for that large a timber but if they have to have the curve details I layout the cut on both sides and figure where I can use my 10" circle saw to make partial cuts. Then I buy the stiffest recip blades and cut as much as I dare out of the scrap side.
Then I like to use my belt sander with very agressive paper to finish out.It is hard to get perfect but the sander seals up the end grain and usually they are similar enough that nobody notices.
ANDYSZ2
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REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST