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The best tool for straight, splinter-free cuts is made even better without a cord.
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Wouldn't that be awfully thick?
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
yes.
Why don't you rip them down the middle with a chain saw and put both natural sides up? to get twice as many.........I'd run treated stringers first pl'd to the crete........then nail the old beams to the stringers....spacing? depends on the moisture in the wood........12% is a balance in Ohio.
waiting on the revolution..............
So it has been done before?
No...but I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night :-)
waiting on the revolution..............
8x16 old porch area to be reno'd to an entry kitchen presently about 9 inches lower than the adjoining floor.
So pl'd treatd 2x sleepers and 'natural' meaning the newly cut side down to the sleepers?
I'd leave the old side up. I used a lot of old beams in this cabin.....stove surround/mantle etc........but for flooring?...never did it.They would make an interesting floor, though. white oak beams would be my choice........
waiting on the revolution..............
Ha nice :)
Nope, but I've seen barn beams laid in dirt to carry (for a while) a plank floor. It does not make a pleasant mix for trying to salvage any of it.
Back in the 80s when me-n-the buds would make spare cash by pulling down barns for the then hip "barn board" siding, we'd get extra for beams.
Never quite ciphered ripping beams down to make flooring. The middle cuts don't have that "barn look" and any holes (nail, bolt or otherwise) need filling for a floor.
For furniture, for some siding applications--that still makes sense to me. But, I already recognize I not nearly hip enough to "get" post-modern retro industrial "loft" fashion (or so my sis, the tres-chic inferior designer reminds me . . . )
Leave room for the snakes.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
When it comes time I'll post pics.
Have you thought of using the bandsaw to make endgrain tile squares and setting them in thinset, then grouting with sawdust/polyurethene mix?What species were these?
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Ya, that would be similar to the some of the old factory flooring using the hardness of the endgrain density. That is certainly worth considering. Even likely the more I rhink on it.
I've a pile of 10 to 12ft old beams I'm wanting to incorporate into the reno but am unsure of what they are outside of one blackwalnut beam I bought a number of years back.
The Amish south of here sometimes have barn beams for sale out in their yards which is probably where the needed additional beams would come from unless I come across a failing barn on my own.
But is a while down the road yet as I'm just gathering ideas. Thanks
rez,
you might be paying a lot more than you need to for stuff that isn't as good as it could be..
old barn beams even if solid and free of rot still have holes and nails etc. in them.. If you want, go to a sawmill and ask for railroad ties.. they are 7inches by 9inches by 9 feet long and made from a hardwood such as ash, oak, maple, etc..
the cost on those would be $22.00 each.. (This is before they get the creosote treatement) That's pretty much the standard price paid for such timbers all over the country..
Now my sawmill will sell me the same size timbers that are 18 feet long for $44.00 each and if I need larger sizes they are adjusted accordingly..
I haven't looked into that yet but is certainly a consideration. Thanks View Image