I want to replace the exterior door to my walkout basement. The basement is below grade and has concrete steps up to the backyard, so the door is not really protected from the elements. The basement is poured concrete. What’s the proper way to install a steel door – do I have to attach some wood framing to the concrete that I can mount the door on? If so, should it be PT?
The old door is wood and its attached to some failing wood framing, but I’d like to take it all down and start fresh – its not in great shape.
Thanks!
Replies
The steel door installation I've done is where the jamb is the critical element; it captures boths sides of the opening, is tightened by heavy screws, and then the door is hung.
Others may have different techniques/methods.
So is pressure treated wood the right thing to use as the framing or is that not good to have inside the house?
No pt lumber is involved; the metal jambs tighten, with the metal header, against the brick or block opening.
Bob, is this a standard size door? I ask, because a lot of basement doors are not. You could replace the door and jambs, just the door, depends on the masonary opening. If you replace the jambs, pressure treated is best.You probably will have to make your own. If you use stock door jambs, seal the back, the bottom and the top of the jambs with an oil based paint or sealer. You can buy a spray can for this.
There are numerous fasteners you can use to fasten the jambs. Tapcons will work, so will the wedge type masonry bolts. If you need to apply framing umber first, then a stock door, you can nail or screw galvanized fasteners to the pressure treated framing.Make sure the pressure treated wood is fastened with fasteners that won't degrade. The new pressure treated wood eats regular galvanized, use double dipped hot galvanized or stainless steel. There is another type of screw for pressure treated that I can't recall the name of, some kind of deck screw.
mike
I should have phrased things more accurately. I want to put in a new prehung steel door. I want to rip out everything that's already there down to the concrete walls. How do I get the prehung door installed in the rough masonry opening?Sound like you're saying:
1. build up a door frame with PT lumber by attaching it to the concrete with tapcons, etc that are of the appropriate metal/treatment. I suppose I'll need some sort of hammer drill for this, right?2. Install the prehung door as if this were a wood frame opening. This seems to make sense, I just wonder if that's secure enough, and if the PT lumber is okay to have exposed inside the basement which will (hopefully) be living area some day.
I believe the tapcon connection will work just fine. You can always beef it up with the framers best friend. Construction adhesive.Adam Greisz<!----><!---->
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Bob, I use a rotohammer, a hammerdrill will work though slower. You might be able to drill the concrete with a regular corded drill and masonry bit.If the walls are concrete ,this will take some effort, but can be done. If the walls are concrete block, much easier. If you are concerned about the pressure treated showing inside( I wouldn't be myself)rip 3/4" off the edge and nail a piece of wood to it. Cedar,redwood ,cypress,whatever is available locally that resists rotting would be good for this piece. I would not be concerned about the PT. If this was a picnic table,yes .As far as I know, PT wood will not harm the enviorment used in this fashion.The old PT had arsenic in it, among other chemicals.The newer stuff is supposed to be more enviormental friendly. Also eats the heck out of any fasteners that are not stainless steel or double hot dipped galvanized.
When you fasten the pt, drill thru the pt and concrete at the same time. I usually put one fastener about hip high to hold the board. Then check for plumb, add the rest.If you need a head piece, nail it to the side jambs first, saves you drilling overhead.One post mentioned using adhesive also,good idea.
As far as security, if the pt is fastened well, the finished jambs nailed or screwed into the pt ( use stainless or galvanized again) and a decent lock ,then that's as secure as your front door. A heavy duty slide bolt inside will help too.
mike