I’m currently framing out my basement and have a couple areas where im thinking about using 2×3 studs. Around my oil tank for instance. I figured I would not be putting any outlets on that wall and 2×3 would save me a couple $ a stud with the currently outrageous wood prices.
My question is i’m having difficulty finding 2×3 PT for the baseplate. Think there would be any issues with a 2×4 PT for the baseplate and 2×3 studs for the framing. I would not be drywalling the inside “closet” area that contained the tank.
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The problem with 2x3 is finding straight ones, harder to find than the 2x4, but they seem to be hiding as well.
Have you considered using steel studs for the framing? They're straighter and lighter than wood, and go up pretty fast once you get the hang of them. They're available in 2 5/8" and 3 5/8" widths. I like them for basements because of the above reasons, plus mold won't grow on them.
use a 2x4 PT for the sill and just off set the 2x3 framing to the outside edge - having some extra material towards the tank shouldn't be a probelem
good luck
I’ve already framed one exterior wall traditionally. Would there be any issue doing the framing around the oil tank with metal studs and then tying back into the wood stud framing.
Your definitely right on trying to sort through for straight 2x3’s
Not at all, I am working on my basement as well, and have a variety of wall designs.
Two parts of my utility room wall have steel studs. I moved a short wall where the fridge goes to make room for a couple inches of foam inside the block exterior wall. That framing is screwed into the adjacent wood studs, and with a couple tapcons into the floor. Where the new wall is in-line with a wood stud wall, the track sets on top of the wood bottom plate, with shorter metal studs. I used inch and a half (or so) studs to save room inside the utility room which seems to collect stuff. (which I try to keep away from the equipment)
The other end includes a relocated cold air return for the furnace, and is just screwed into the adjacent wood studs.
Only real difference is that you need to get a pack of fine thread screws to hang drywall on the metal studs, and a pack of the short screws to connect the metal studs to each other. (and get a nice pair of aviation snips if you don't have them)
After drywall and paint, it looks the same.
Thanks for the info, if putting the metal tracks on top of the wood bottom plate or butting up against any other bottom plate that’s PT, do they need to be separate somehow to prevent the tracks from corroding?
https://www.huduser.gov/portal/publications/hybrid_steelguide.pdf
Page 20: Dry pressure-treated lumber is also not corrosive to zinc, and no special requirements are needed to fasten steel to wood framing.
I think as long as the PT to metal framing interface would be dry, you are ok.
for a basement floor, the bottom of the PT base plate might end up wet from time to time, but the top would be expected to be dry enough for normal framing.