Hey, I’m adding on a laundry room/mudroom, and intend to finish the interior walls with beadboard wainscote, with fire rated drywall above. I’m thinking of sheathing the lower portion with plywood, running flush with the drywall above, then applying the beadboard to the ply. Is that kosher for most fire codes? Or could a guy nail horizontal blocking between studs as nailers for the beadboard, and drywall from floor to ceiling? Also, which beadboard product would be best for a high humidity room? (want to redo a bathroom the same way).
Thanks, all.
Norsky
Replies
Laundry Room , Mud room, good idea.
I'm assuming this will be an insulated exterior addition to your home?
I'm unclear on the neccesity of fire rated drywall in a mudroom. Furnace room maybe...
There are several beadboard products available. Some are nailed individually in strips, while others are available in sheets and are glued on. For high humidity, I would use a sheet product. Less gaps for moisture to penetrate, less nail holes in vapor barrier and no blocking.
I would finish the room in drywall and use a good coat of primer sealer before installing any beadboard.
May neighbors respect You, and troubles neglect You.
Gord
Azek beadboard will handle the moisture of such a room very well.
It can be applied over SR if you run a couple sets of blocking in the wall
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Azek is vinyl? or some other composite?May neighbors respect You, and troubles neglect You.
Gord
Azak is a PVC product I believe...plastics Benjamin. Is that vynal?
I would use a primed MDF sheet wainscote installed with PL400, or a comp grad const adhesive. You can nail it it right to the sheetrock just ot hold it while the glue dries. I believe the ws is 1/4" so it's light and easy to handle. They make the top rails to fit or you can make that yourself. All you're going for is the surface look of the bead so it doesn't have to be a chunky 3/4" real board, and the MDF looks just the same and it's perfect (long as it's primed) for a laundry room because it doesn't move like real wood. Rock the room and prime it first, snap your lines, then install your beadboard.
I did the 3/4" custom milled real stuff in my bath and the MDF in my hallway. I much prefer the MDF. So much easier.
I think HD carries it.
I like the MDF panels as well. Quick, easy, and if sealed properly will last. Dealing with doorcasing becomes a non-issue, simple butt and caulk. Cap with a moulding, baseboard and the wainscott project takes an afternoon.
You get the look without all the time and expense.
I would use PL-200 instead of PL-400 on wall panels. Much easier to clean up any spills or over glues and it doesn't stink up the place. PL-200 has a rubbery feel when set and will allow for expansion. I stick the sheet to the wall with PL-200 and then pull the sheet back. Wait for 2 minutes or so for the glue to tack and then stick it back on. I you allow both sides to dry slightly it works much like contact cement. The technique also works when sticking sheets of drywall to concrete block, etc.May neighbors respect You, and troubles neglect You.
Gord
Puffed PVC - Poly Yinyl Chlosomething or other ---yes it is a type of vinyl, but is paintable
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if you do end up using a wood product, paint (or finish) it before you put it up. If / when it moves with variations in moisture, you wont get unsightly lines of primer or no finish.
Which isnt to say you can't also finish it on the wall to remove fastener marks. Just get the edges ahead of time.
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