FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe

In every issue you'll find...

  • Expert insights on techniques and principles
  • Unbiased tool reviews
  • Step-by-step details to master the job
  • Field-tested advice and know-how
Subscribe Now!
Subscribe
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
  • Join
  • Log In
Subscribe

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Beam & Rafter Sizes for Snow Country?

JoeWood | Posted in Construction Techniques on October 18, 2006 02:11am

I know how to size joists and beams for decks (Span Tables) but I don’t really know how to size rafters and their beams, especially for snow loads! (I’m a SoCal boy, don’t know nuttin about snow! 🙂

I’d like to know if this structure will fly in Snow Country (Colarado)

Roof is a 6:12

The stock would be Clear Dry (19 %) western red cedar. The rafter span would be just under 6’ (walls are 12’ square), and I’d like to use 2×6 rafters and 2×8 hips. The rafters would overhang 2’8 (span of 2’ 6.5â€).

The beams would be made up from 2, full sized (2†nominal) 2x10s glued up together, after planning the beams would net out at 3.75†x 9.75â€.

Think this will fly under a bunch of Snow?

Is there an Online Calculator that I can use, where I can choose all these parameters, including wood species (wr cedar) to find these beam and rafter sizes?

I’ve included a nifty 3d PDF you can Rotate and Zoom on (You use those three Tools top left) if you have the Adobe Reader Version 7.0.7 or newer, or Adobe Acrobat http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html

appreciate any advice!


Edited 10/17/2006 8:00 pm by JoeWood

File format
Reply

Replies

  1. IdahoDon | Oct 18, 2006 04:29am | #1

    The snow load varies a great deal in snow country so you'll have to provide either a location or what the local codes are using for loads.  Permit?  Many Colorado counties are quite agressive when it comes to enforcing their codes. 

     

    Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

    1. JoeWood | Oct 18, 2006 04:34am | #2

      This one's in Littleton, Colo. Don.
      http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?searchtype=address&country=US&addtohistory=&searchtab=home&formtype=address&popflag=0&latitude=&longitude=&name=&phone=&level=ZIP&cat=&address=&city=Littleton&state=CO&zipcode=80121(sorry, long URL!)The roof would be around 306 Sq feet, that's right at the size that would need a permit here in San Diego.

      1. IdahoDon | Oct 18, 2006 06:13am | #5

        Here's a long url for you!

        http://www.co.arapahoe.co.us/Departments/PW/documents/POLICY_SHEET_2003.pdf

        and another

        http://www.co.arapahoe.co.us/Departments/PW/documents/2003%20I-Code%20resolution.Web%20data.pdf

        The snow load for arapahoe county is only 30#  

        Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

  2. User avater
    IMERC | Oct 18, 2006 05:08am | #3

    which county...

    load rates vary from 60 to 120 pounds relative to county and location.....

    otherwise 50 will get by...

    120SF... good to go.. 120.1SF... permit required..

     

     

    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

    WOW!!! What a Ride!

    Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

  3. Pierre1 | Oct 18, 2006 05:22am | #4

    In the southern part of the British Columbia Rockies, the snow load is figured on the basis of 125# per sq. ft. The roof must withstand heavy snowfall followed by warm weather or rain cycles. I understand that CO's snow is dryer, and stays dry, so your design loads may be less than 125#, unless your building is sited in a micro-climate that generates lots of warm snow.

    Remember to design and plan for roof avalanches:

    Around here, a 6:12 roof does not readily shed itself of snow. You need to go to 7:12 for that to happen naturally.

    Ask your county's bldg. dept. whether their design figures vary depending on the type or roofing used. Metal sheds readily - almost too readily if your parking spot, walkway or front door are under the drop zone. lol.  Shingles hang on to snow...until a shear plane forms on top of the first layer and new snow falls over that. The second layer will release much more readily than you would expect.

    Edit: just looked at your structure. Nice shapes and proportions. A hip roof tends to build up snow on the lee side of the prevailing winds. The windward side is usually scoured clean. This means that the roof loads will be unevenly distributed.

     



    Edited 10/17/2006 10:26 pm ET by Pierre1

  4. IdahoDon | Oct 18, 2006 06:30am | #6

    According to the load tables in my UBC code book (IRC as used by Arapahoe Co. )is out in the truck) it looks like you're in pretty good shape as far as span goes.  #2 2x6 western cedar 16" oc will span over 9', and at 24" oc something like 7' 6".

    One of those pdf files from the building department states that although a structure may fit the exemption from a building permit, it still needs department approval.  Who knows if that's enforced.  My guess is they would want to approve the plans/specs.

    The good news is, if they review your plans they will size any beams/posts.

    Hope that helps a little. 

     

     

    Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

  5. GHR | Oct 18, 2006 04:57pm | #7

    "Clear Dry (19 %) western red cedar" is not a structural grade if lumber.

    You might see if your design falls under the prescriptive code or if you need engineering.

    If you need engineering, hire someone.

    1. JoeWood | Oct 18, 2006 08:19pm | #8

      Appreciate all the help with this Don!So, that UBC Code Book lists the spans for WRed? Gut feeling tells me that the rafters are fine. Guess there's no way to calculate laminated beams like these besides hiring an engineer.I have the people in Colorado checking on the snow loads, and if they do need a permit.So, does anyone know of any Online Calculators that give you the rafter and beam sizes need for any given span?

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Industry-First Cordless Rebar Cutter and Bender

A brushless motor and 36v batteries power Metabo HPT’s cordless rebar bender and cutter.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • Installing Prehung Exterior Doors
  • Podcast 485: Air-Sealing a Mobile Home, Owner/Builder Tests, and Ready-to-Tile Shower Bases
  • Podcast 485: Members-only Aftershow
  • Fastener System for Solving Deck Fascia Board Expansion

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

BOOKS, DVDs, & MERCH

Shop the Store
  • Outdoor Projects
    Buy Now
  • 2021 Fine Homebuilding Archive
    Buy Now
  • Code Check Building 4th Edition
    Buy Now
  • Pretty Good House
    Buy Now
  • Shop the Store

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 309 - Aug/Sept
    • 10 Steps to Install Crown Molding on Cabinets
    • How to Get Sturdy Walls Without OSB
    • Choosing the Right Construction Tape for the Job
  • Issue 308 - July 2022
    • Pretty Good House Book Excerpt: Copper Farmhouse
    • 10 Dos and Don'ts for Electric In-Floor Heat
    • A Sturdy Rail for Outdoor Stairs
  • Issue 307 - June 2022
    • How to Raise a Post-Frame Home
    • Trimming Deck Stairs
    • Evolving an Energy-Efficient Envelope
  • Issue 306 - April/May 2022
    • Framing Stairs to an Out-of-Level Landing
    • Building a Zero-Energy Home for Less
    • Good-Looking and Long-Lasting Traditional Gutters
  • Issue 305 - Feb/March 2022
    • The Steady Surge in Residential Solar
    • The Fine Homebuilding Interview: William B. Rose
    • How Good Is Your Air Barrier?

Fine Homebuilding

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences

Taunton Network

  • Green Building Advisor
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Fine Gardening
  • Threads
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Copyright
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2022 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Shop the Store

  • Books
  • DVDs
  • Taunton Workshops

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in