I was told by an architect that you could beef up floor joists by screwing metal studs to the side. He said that they are easier to work with since they are lighter and stronger than lumber. Has anyone ever tried this? I don’t have any bounce in my floor but it has a slight dip in it. Since I’m gutting the room and replacing the sub floor I thought it would be a good idea to level and beef up the floor at the same time. -Ed
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
The RealTruck AMP Research Bedsteps give you easy access to your truck-bed storage.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Sounds like one of those ideas that's good in theory, but........
The studs are pretty light gauge steel. Unless they were fastened at very close intervals, I doubt they would do anything but buckle. And you'd have to have a stud that would go the full length of the joist, or else overlap and splice them.
Not a very practical solution..........
If you can remain calm, you just don't have all the facts.
" The right Words"- right Boss Hog? " When Life looks Like Easy street there is Danger at Your Door" Jerry Garcia. - Uncle Johns Band
I heard today that Elvis made 37 million dolars last year. Not bad for a dead man.
"I was born in the country, razed in the city, I'm a natural born shaker from my hips to the ground"
Edited 8/13/2002 12:57:02 PM ET by Edgar76b
What about using 1/8" or 3/16" steel fish plates (IIRC)?
They need to be the height of the joist and length of the joist. They would be a bitch to install and weigh a ton but would work.
I don't doubt that would work. But someone would have to work out a fastener schedule.
And it would sure be a pain, as you noted.
Let's let the anti-gun people fight the next war.
I might consider it after changing stud to Metal C joist in consultation with an engineer.
Too many architects are artists running their mouths and forgetting that they slept through engineering classes. No insult meant to those who keep their mouth, mind, and calculator all conected.
ive used p.t.s. 3/4 " ply for lengths up to 16' one side or both for that extra step, if you do both stagger opposing ply seams. then fasten with building adhesive and 2" deck screws, maybe some more solid blocking. that metal stud thing i would be very leary of. cheers bear
Edited 8/13/2002 8:47:03 PM ET by the bear
I agree with the cold rolled channel and a consultation with an engineer. Metal studs could be used, but you would have to use between 10 and 12 GA, and it would probably be ridculously expensive by comparison. In a 10 to 12GA thickness the studs are not much thinner than the 3/8" C channel. The engineer will likely approve a 3/8" channel and it should be much cheaper in the long run.
(Not knowing the specific situation you are deling with) Have you considered using other joists under the existing sagging joists at a perpindicular and bracing it with some of those columns you pop the pinto and screw into place? Just a thought.
If there is no room under the joists to use a cross member joist and columns you could also jack up the sagging studs and run crossbracing in between the studs.
Anyone else got any ideas?