any tips on bending mdf base for an inside radius of about 18″(stair case)????
i’ve cut the back,wet it and it keeps on breaking. maybe it just can’t take it? should i
just go solid wood for that portion?
thanks,
bashingthumb.
any tips on bending mdf base for an inside radius of about 18″(stair case)????
i’ve cut the back,wet it and it keeps on breaking. maybe it just can’t take it? should i
just go solid wood for that portion?
thanks,
bashingthumb.
Old masonry may look tough, but the wrong mortar can destroy it—here's how to choose the right mix for lasting repairs.
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Replies
Try using thinner MDF.
If this doesn't work, use wiggle plywood. It's more stable after the fact anyway.
Never wet MDF. It'll just swell rather than bend like GWB.
Is the base a complex profile ? I assume you are purchasing it from a lumber yard.How about ripping it into 1/8 strips and bending it round a form.Assuming you can get the profile in wood.This requires a lot of material as you lose the kerf each cut .These pieces have to come out of another piece of base. I try and cut slices equal to the kerf as Ifind it easier figure out the second series of cuts to fill in the kerfs of the first series of cuts. Then laminate them up round a form.Otherwise cut the profile in sheet metal and shape it in in plaster.This however requires talents that I do not have.But I have seen it done with complex victorian base
Jako
its standard "home depot" 4" base. i like your idea. however, i think it would really fall apart if i did that. i'm thinking more and more that a real wood base would hold up to bending than would MDF. just have to match the profile for the rest of the house. or something close since it is a small isolated space.
http://www.flextrim.com/
thanks for the info. boy that stuff is $$$$$$!
alex
cheap compared to all the labor and how many mistakes did you say you're willing to throw out?.
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Cut deeper and closer together from the back the fill the cut seen from the top with car body filler.