best and most economical shop shelfs
johnnyd
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
For the first time in my life I have the time, $ and space to build storage shelves for my new shop. The initial space will be against a ~ 8 foot sheet rock wall with 2×4 studs on 16 ” centers. Need to store paint cans, parts bins, and the inevitable stuff that always accumulates. Would like to have a 16″ wide bench incorporated to spread out stuff now and again, with wider heavier duty shelves underneath for larger tool (chain saw, shop vac etc) storage. Seems like #2 pine boards, 3/4″ AC plywood, melamine, are all ~ the same $ per sq ft. Any ideas about what has worked well for you….economical and good design?
Replies
Personnaly I would go with the melimine, Saves time painting. But how to support them? I am looking at the heavy duty stanards and brackets, the ones with two rows of slots the brackets come in lenghts from 8" to about 24". their are even brackets with a dianglial support. You can even fasten a track to the wall and move the stanards around. I used a single slot bracket now as a lumber rack and am thinking or switching to the double. At Home Depot they sell these in various sections of the store some are cheaper then others for some reason.
If you want something ready to go I went to Costco (if you have one near by that is)and got their chrome wire resturant shelf units. $73.00 they are18dx48wx76h. come with wheels and back stops. I have three, can be set up in half height to, I roll them all around, great for cleaning behind. I forget how much weight they hold but it is a lot. I have three for power tools, paint can etc. The open wire slelf collects no dust.
Lowe's has a similar wire shelf unit for a bit less. If there is a Container Store near to hand, all of the accessories for the "Metro" line of wire shelves work (half-width shelves, hook hangers, casters, etc.)
Definitely go with the double-slotted shelf standards. It's about the same effort to mount them directly to the wall as to the sliding track (I always wind up putting some screws in under the track to hold the standards straight anyway).
Melamine makes for cleaner shelves with easier cleanup--but you will have to find a way to seal any cut edges.
Slotboard gets some mention as a very clean surface, but the sheets are expensive. I've toyed with the idea of a d-i-y slot board by rabbetting 1x4s. Coolest part about the slotboard is that regular pegboard hangers work in it, along with a lot of the bin & bracket parts organizers.
Thanks for your responses. I'm leaning towards 1 x 10 pine build-your-own, for looks as much as anything, and the pleasure of building, after having lunch with a carpenter friend, . He believes 1 x 10 #2 pine would be same $ and stiffer than 3/4" ply or melamine. I don't mind priming and varnishing. Next question...is he correct? Can I span a greater distance with # 2 pine than with ripped down 3/4" ply/MDF? What span would you suggest for medium duty...max wieght on upper shelfs would be gallon cans of paint Could I get away with 4 ' without too much sagging? I wouldn't mind putting on strongbacks.
Paint cans can get heavy. I also like keeping the front edge of the shelf clear (no front 'column' supports. I'd use one support every 32" or so, which ought to allow using a slightly smaller support.
If you are going to varnish the shelves, paint the wall behind first. A good semi-gloss white makes it seem brighter and "bigger." As a bonus, it will set off the varnished shelves very nicely.
The wall is primed and painted with Zinnser. I thought the slickest way might be to do "lap" joints, where a 3/4" slot 1/2 the board width would be cut into both horizontal and vertical pieces.... so you'd end up with a pigeon hole configuratoin 32" wide and whatever tall. Make sense? Any easier suggestions?
That sounds like it would look sharp. I hadn't thought of a "pigeon hole" style, for the shelving. Ought to make for a cool effect.
A favorite of mine has been 1/2" OSB on 2x3 rails with 2x4 posts about 8' o.c.. Not beautiful, but cheap, quick and strong.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
I've done something similar. Although to argue your point about not being beautiful...
I took and applied about 3 to 5 coats of polyurethane over what you described. That poly really brings out some surprising character out of the OSB.
I make all my shelves by adding rails front and back to the shelf material itself. I typically use 3/4 "nice wood" for the rails and make them 1 1/2 to 2 inches tall. I put a rabbit on the front rail so it covers the raw edge of shelf material. This makes for very strong shelving and allows you to have good spans between supports.
deblacksmith
we do 12- 16" deep shelves of 1/2 ply with 1x3 furring cleats on the wall and 1x3 cleats glued and nailed to the front.. the verticals are 1x3 @ 3' OC...Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
store paint cans
assuming that these cans will contain paint, I suggest a metal cabinet/cupboard - I got a couple at garage/yard sales -
shelving, for storage I've used 1/2' ply on 2X3" framing - the most satisfying is to analyse the tools you hve to store and design specific places for each that allow for use in place or for easy removal/set-up/replace - if it's a PITA to move the tool from storage to use and back, it won't get done - good luck -