Replies

1. 
   JMadson | Jan 29, 2007 10:56pm | #1

   I'm using 3/4" mdf. The wood slides nice against it, very flat too. 

   “The richest genius, like the most fertile soil, when uncultivated, shoots up into the rankest weeds..” – Hume

1. 
   JIMMIE | Jan 30, 2007 12:16am | #3

   Thank You.

   Did you stain or varnish the MDF?

1. 
   Sancho | Jan 30, 2007 12:22am | #4

   i use shrt pieces of 2" aluminum angle stock. then attach 1/2" hardwood to it 

                

   View Image    Official Jeff Buck Memorial Tagline "

2. 
   JMadson | Jan 30, 2007 01:21am | #6

   Plain MDF has pretty smooth surface as is (as long as it's not a cut surface)

   The UHMW from another poster is also a good choice.“The richest genius, like the most fertile soil, when uncultivated, shoots up into the rankest weeds..” – Hume

2. 
   CAGIV | Jan 29, 2007 11:32pm | #2

   I use 3/4 MDF, it lays flat and stays smooth.  It has an aluminum backing so strenght isn't an issue, it it was going to be the main structure of the fence I would be worried it would flex

   I've thought about melamine because it's smoother and probably would glide easier, just never had any around when the fence needed replaced

   

3. 
   cynwyd | Jan 30, 2007 12:37am | #5

   I've used all those choices with satisfaction but what I wanted to add was the suggestion of a UHMH sheet to whatever your choice is.

   Then I found this;

   http://item.express.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ExpressItem&item=200067592279&pid=&wlid=1478354&wlitemid=2244394

   This stuff makes other choices seem, like well, a drag.

4. 
   bayviewrr | Jan 30, 2007 04:23am | #7

   Fifteen years ago I made my fence out of two pieces of 1x4 scrap oak glued and clamped.  To this day, it is a straight as an arrow and has been used countless times.  Can't compain about that.

   Brian.....Bayview Renovation

5. 
   IdahoDon | Jan 30, 2007 05:57am | #8

   The "best" would depend quite a lot on how it's used, how often it's used, how it's stored, and a number of other things.

   I'm often milling wood outside and need a decent size router table that is easily transported and durable so my needs are much different from others.  Professional carpentry is speed based, even the highest quality work, so the fence also has to be quick to set up and adjust.

   For years I simply grabbed a 3' board and clamped it to my router table (3'x2' AC birch plywood).  With two quickgrip clamps a straight 2x4 can be adjusted quite easily and micro adjusted with a hammer tap.  Unfortunately, it doesn't have dust collection and takes more time than it should to cut away bit clearance.  Many very good finish carps still use a simple board as a router fence on the jobsite.

   While culling scraps from a scratch build oak staircase a proper fence was made from some very nicely grained and stable oak.  Much of what you'll find, hardwood or not, is simply not going to be stable over the long haul because the grain is not right or there are internal tensions from improper drying or whatnot.  Vertical grain wood is quite stable, and those that stay true while being cut are the best of all.

   After using the oak fence for a year I needed to reduce setup times and gain dust collection so switched to the Bench Dog Pro fence.  As you can see it's a rather simple design, essentially an aluminum angle with misc. knobs and slotted tracks to attach and adjust it.

   View Image

   If I had a little more time to tinker, the same design could have been replicated for less than the $150, but I'm a big fan of the simple aluminum angle with adjustable wood faces for 99% of all on site finish carpentry uses.

    

   If you want some great ideas and a design that is top notch check out http://www.patwarner.com/ View Image

    

   Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

6. 
   IMERC | Jan 30, 2007 07:03am | #9

   sq or rectangle tube AL and a hardwood face sanded baby smooth and waxed...

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!! What a Ride!
   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

7. 
   DougU | Jan 30, 2007 07:31am | #10

   Jimmie

   I use MDF because I make a lot of sacraficial fences and the stuff is cheap.

   I second the PatWarner.com web site, a lot of good info there.

   Doug

    

8. 
   user-158769 | Jan 30, 2007 08:00am | #11

   My router fence pretty much is a copy of the Pat Warner design shown in the previous post...but I made mine from 3/4 inch thick scraps of cabinet grade oak plywood. I glue 2 pieces togetherand I also glued a piece of formica to it. The formica keeps the plywood form bowing, and is great to slide against.

   Davo

9. 
   TomT226 | Jan 30, 2007 03:09pm | #12

   I just use white 3/4" melamine shelf stock and rip it to width.  The white surface makes it easy to make indexing marks when running a lot of mortises. 

    

1. 
   stevent1 | Jan 30, 2007 04:54pm | #13

   Jimmie,

   I use a 3/4"melamine base and a 8/4 X 3" rift sawn staight edge.

   View Image

   Chuck S.live, work, build, ...better with wood