Hey all,
I do a lot of eave work (rafter tails–starter boards–fascia—roofing) mostly due to dryrot and termites.
I use a sawzall for 90% of the work. (4 year old Makita, still going strong)
Sometimes I will take the rafter’s back to the top plate, and the saw is great for that, but on occasions I also have to cut the tails at a 45* angle and the toughest of all saw blades still tend to bend and create uneven cuts.
Anybody got any tricks or tips?? Maybe a not well known tool that would make it a better cut?
If I could create the perfect saw it would be a sawzall that cuts like a skill saw. 🙂
Thanks for any replies.
Replies
Slower, but your precision can be much higher with a handsaw -- you know, regular old handsaw, no electricity in sight -- for oddball cuts. I've used one to cut 1/8" off a 6x6 post -- try that with a handheld power saw! Don't just get any old saw, look for one of the older ones or contact Tom Law (Tom Law, 62 W. Water Street, Smithsburg, MD 21783, 301-824-5223), who specializes in saws and who has swung a hammer on construction sites. Tell him what you're after, and he should be able to set you up.
Some of the demolition blades for sawzalls are much stiffer than regular blades, but they tend to leave cuts that look like a wolverine's been at the wood.
i don't have a saw to recommend, but I do have good success cleaning up odd-ball cuts with a 4 1/2" handheld grinder - - a disk of 36 grit will chew end grain, and a deft touch will square up angled cuts...
How about a portable bandsaw, or one of those mini chainsaws?
They also have those chainsaw attachments for circ saws with enough depth of cut to get through it from below.
Then there are those really big circular saws. Heavy and expensive, but can be rented.
Edited 10/14/2003 1:38:54 PM ET by csnow
Portable band saw?? Never seen such an animal....
Do tell.
Portable bandsaws are mostly a metal-cutting tool -- the only blades I've ever seen listed for these are metal-cutting -- small teeth. Not sure how well they'd fit in rafter bays. The idea of holding one of these, or one of those giant 10" or 16" circular saws, upside down while standing on a ladder or scaffold to get a precise cut on a rafter tail -- well, the only person I can think of offhand who might be able to manage that is too busy to try, as he just got elected governor of California.
I like using a cordless saw and a recip blade called the ax made by milwaukee. why do you cut on a 45 angle?
ANDYSZ2
I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.
I use a 45 degree angle on Rafter tails usually when just the ends are bad and it's solid all the way back.
I secure with 2 screws on top----- two screws (countersunk) on bottom and two nails thru facia to rafter.
Sometimes I have to do this when there are 5,6,7 etc rafter tails in a row. Taking all the tails (6-7 in a row) back behind the topplate is just not an option with some of the roof styles here in California.
Most all my work is due to Fungus or Termite damage.*****Residential Carpentry Solutions******
Are you pulling up the decking before making these cuts or just from beneath. I have seen a fiberglass boot that slides underneath to hide the rot and further waterproof the tails. I thought this was a pretty clever trick but I only saw it on the internet and until I see it in person I have reservations.
If decking is still on I woud make a template out of plywood and cut it with a recip saw with blade turned in backwards and just long enough to cut thru use the really stiff blade called axe made by Milwaukee.Another thing that really helps is setting up scaffolding because is your on a stable platform it is a lot easier to concentrate on your cut.
ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.