I found the 12″ dual-bevel CMS by Delta on sale for just $250 at Menards. It has some great features. It came in a close second to Bosch (out of ten saws) in the last review of 12″ saws by FHB (Arnold & Guertin).
The Delta has a 6-3/4″ vertical cutting capacity (Bosch can only cut 4-1/2″). I got the saw for my current job, running a bunch of 5-1/4″ base. This saw can cut it upright.
I made a saw stand for my new Delta that allows me to tuck the saw underneath for use as a work table. When the job is over I tip the stand on its’ back, pull the legs and stow them with the saw…from stand to tool box.
The stand was built to match the height of my table saw and 10″ SCMS.
Edited 1/25/2007 8:16 pm ET by basswood
Replies
Sharp looking saw... Seems that might be a nice alternative to the DeWalt 706/716 for vertical capacity. I'll be interested to hear how she holds up.
Nick
Delta seems to be all over the map where quality is concerned. I hope this turns out to be a solid tool. Seems very well designed and built. Nice handles, sliding fences, pop-up camlok crown stops, nice controls and easy to read scales. I will see if the saw remains accurate...I will be comparing it to my Hitachi--that saw has been very accurate and durable.Dewalt 706 cuts 6-1/8" vertical...close to this Delta. The Delta will crosscut 9-1/4" too (Bosch and Dewalt both crosscut and 45* miter cut about an inch less than the Delta.
Basswood,Nice storage system for your new saw. I have an ancient 355mm Makita Miter saw. Cuts 5-1/2" standing up. It was taken off the market briefly because journeymen carpenters kept getting injured on the bounce-back from the brake. ( cuting their arm off ) Chuck SSlive, work, build, ...better with wood
I considered a new Makita, nice saw and 10 lbs. lighter (but only 4-5/8" vertical cutting).Glad you like the storage/stand I made...today I'll make outriggers for it, if I finish my work early. I also plan to cut handles into the box and bolt wheels on it. The saw is 50# and the box about 25#. I will probably take the saw out of the box, bring the box in and set it up, before lugging the saw in.
Edited 1/28/2007 7:55 am ET by basswood
Nice. I can't figure out how the legs fasten into the stand. I can spend a few more minutes looking at the pics, but that may strain my feeble brains too much. screwed into the sides?
I've had the smaller 10" version for a couple years, bought under $100. We've been good to each other, still accurate and cuts sharp. I also have a very old 8" delta that I paid over $250 back 15 years ago, and my 12" DW SCMS. Been thinking about stands for a while now.
Did I mention I find your stand nice?
Thanks for the kind words and glad to know you have had some good Delta stuff.The sides of the stand are double walled, with a 3/4" slot to slide the legs into. The fit is snug...but not too tight. Works well and is very stable. The top of the slot has a stop screwed in so the legs (just the right length to fit inside the box) produce the 36" height for the saw.
Thanks. I thought about that too (hard to believe) but coudn't see the slot in the 3rd pic.
Please post again when you come up with Ver 2.0 and add more features.
Stay warm. Twas 1deg when I woke up this morning, boston area, feeling pretty lethargic.
Here's the auxillary table/fence sawstand with knockdown supports (all cut out of one 4x8 sheet of 1/2" MDO ply). I like to make aux. fences & tables out of MDO (sign board) ply because it is good for writing notes and marks for repeat cuts on it. Also a nice smooth, straight & stable material.
BW,Excellent set up.I have an 8' auxilliary fence from some maple plywood rips. I move the fence for 90s, 45s
22.5s
This should be featured in FH and FW. I usually set my saw on a bench with a nail in a door jamb for supporting 16 footers. With your system a good cut man and 2 nailers could probably knock a 2000 SF house in a day after setting doors.Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Edited 1/27/2007 8:15 pm ET by stevent1
Taunton might like how efficiently the aux. fence/table & supports can be cut from a single sheet...not much waste. Nice enough for a shop, but can quickly knock down. Portable and takes up very little room.It was fun designing and building this...glad you like it.
Your setup looks like an optimal combination of business acumen and effective building concepts and practices. Kudos! IMHO, Taunton would be missing out, as would their readers, if they chose not to highlight your chopsaw station in Fine Homebuilding.
Were I a prospective customer, your chopsaw setup would speak so clearly about your work ethic and skilful and efficient use of materials that I would be far more inclined to hire you - you're clearly NOT the average bear.
When you publish a book that features more of your inventiveness, I'll be doubly happy: I'll be able to use some of your designs in my work, and I'll be in a better position to deconstruct your projects in an effort to understand your cognitive approach.
Very well done, sir.-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Gosh...I'll see if the FHB editors like it as much as you. I would be flattered if this new setup is worthy of a mention in the magazine.
Edited 1/28/2007 7:52 am ET by basswood
All,Here is another tip. The 1/2" MDO ply aux fence and table stock is a good compromise, relatively thin (to preserve cutting capacity) but thick enough for secure fastening.I use short, very thick shaft (3/16") specialty cabinet hardware screws for securing the aux. fence to the factory saw fence. On this saw, the aux fence mounting holes are on the sliding fence (the sliding fence can be removed with the touch of a button, so the aux. fence can be removed without being unscrewed...slide on--slide off).More pics later in the week.
--"This should be featured in FH and FW."I got word this week that "they" want to publish this design in the FH magazine, so it sounds good. In the past, some things I submitted, that the editors were "preparing for publication" never made it in...so we will have to wait and see.Thanks to those who encouraged me to submit it...well received so far.
Hey Bass, congrats on all the interest in your stand.
Quick Hijack - was wondering where you went for the continuing education to renew your contractor's license?
I use Kaplan (used to be called Pro Source) and just did mine the other day. Got to thinking it might be a good time for a MN mini fest. Breaktimers could take class on same day. Visit on breaks and lunch and maybe happy hour after.
I posted a thread in the fests folder but got no hits. Like I say, too late for me this year, but something to think about.
Still curious who you use,
Shoe
I'd be all for this idea! I have my contuing ed next Friday (Feb 9) in St Paul. If we were able to get a couple of guys together, we could take turns sleeping while the other guy was taking notes...:)
it's ok to think you're as old as you once were...just so long as you don't try to prove it...
http://www.cobrajem.com
Just stopped by the house for lunch (I love it when I work close to home) and saw your post.It is nice when an idea is worthwhile to others. It will be fun to see if others actually use the design and build some saw stands...then if they go to the trouble, I hope they really like it.On continuing ed., I'm so far behind now, I don't hold a current license. I'm mostly a trim sub and trade specialist now. I hand off jobs that need a permit and GC and focus on the trim, cab and counter part of the job for them. I've been busy enough to not need to do the entire remodel or build jobs myself and like it that way.That said, I would like to take enough cont. ed. for the license...maybe this next fall at JLC Live.
LUKE! THIS IS YOUR FATHER SPEAKING. You need to get your license current. You never know when the the need for it might rise up. Trust me it's always a good idea to be bonefide.
Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?
Yeah. Each year, I do more specialized trim work and less remodel jobs. I do get called to fix jobs messed up by licensed guys though. My painter and plumber even have GC licenses, so I guess I better join the crowd. I have passed a few GC jobs on to those guys. I do have tons of insurance and a work comp. policy, so as long as I don't pretend to be a GC or dodge permitting, I'm OK. Funny, I get more than enough continuing ed. here at Breaktime...too bad I have to go sit in a class. I have to make up two years of past coursework plus this year now, to apply.I did feel like a school kid sitting at my desk yesterday, as I found another for my stand (didn't get to use it for the saw...spent all day figuring out all the stair parts and set 4 newel posts--four down only six to go).
The make up classes just pile up every year.
I learned to schedule all that stuff in the middle of winter when nothings going on and the weather sucks. That way I have less reason to blow it off.
Nice Newels
Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?
Very sweet set up.
Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?
I'll take a few pics of the new saw, stand, and supports in action this week. I am going to enjoy it.
Cool. I'm thinking about building something along those lines.
Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?
Here is the cut plan for the aux. fence/table and supports. The saw stand part should be a unique plan for the dimensions of each CMS model. I just have a rough sketch of that, I may draw up a generic plan for the saw stand if FHB is interested.The cut sequence is basic, rip the sheet in half, then rip each half in half again, so you have 4 rips 1x8'. Then make all the cross cuts, etc.
Edited 1/28/2007 4:36 pm ET by basswood
Thanks. I got it saved.
Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?
You're quite welcome. More later.Cheers!
Ingenious! And so very functional. thanks for the pics.
The method used for the fence/table supports will be good for making furniture for the kids when they leave home in a few years. Knockdown coffee tables, bookcases, stools, etc.I'm pleased to have something to offer.
Basswood,I also enjoy the cleverness of your design for the box and the stand/table setups. I did some furniture along these lines when I was young and low on cash, and it works really well when you move house often. I agree that Taunton should jump on this and showcase your design in the magazine.Have you ever seen the book "Nomadic Furniture"? It has a lot of ideas for KD stuff that can be built quickly and travels well.Bill
Bill,I have not heard of the Nomadic Furniture book, but my wife manages a book store--I'll have her check into it for me.I emailed Justin Fink yesterday, since a growing number of posters have suggested this work station design could be worthy of publication.The new design will be well tested in the next few weeks and months. When I get a chance, I may build another CMS toolbox/stand out of the 1/2" MDO (the prototype was mostly 3/4" BC). Lighter would be nice. The heavier prototype would then be relegated to the shop. I'll put wheels and handles on the box (that may produce a result that is good enough though).Can you tell, I'm always tinkering with things and thoughts.Thank you for the kind words,Basswood
Brian...I like the stand! I tinkered with a number of site made stands for a long time...usually a 2x10 with a couple of 2x4 screwed in for support. I finally settled on the Ryobi stand they have at HD for $99. I bought 2 of them for the 2 saws I use the majority of the time. I still have my 12 DeWalt scms on the Delta sidekick, but that has been relegated to semi-retirement in the shop. That stand and saw are HEAVY!
btw...how are things in your neck of the woods? I've been fortunate enough to be booked through July at the moment (2 big kitchen/mudroom remodels), but I know a number of guys are slow. it's ok to think you're as old as you once were...just so long as you don't try to prove it...
http://www.cobrajem.com
Chuck,I hope the stand proves itself for me and others. It is just a week old! I'll give it a good work out tomorrow.12" sliders are heavy! Dewalt or otherwise. I think a 10" slider and a regular 12" CMS are a good combo.As far as business, I'm booked for 3 mos. now (which is as far out as I ever get), but have two more months of work I'm bidding on. Many are slow here...funny though, the guys I like to pull into my jobs, are all busy too.My biggest job this winter is just two minutes from my house. I am pulling all the doors and trim out of a house, purchased by a Mayo Doctor, and upgrading it. Doing a bunch of other stuff in there too (custom bookcases, etc.).This afternoon, I'll go tear out a kitchen on the other end of Winona. When I get back home I have to work up an estimate for trimming a big, Lake City, custom. Over 40 doors to hang & trim and better than 40 windows to trim, base, cabinets, etc. Crazy man. Thanks for asking, and nice to hear you have plenty to do too!Cheers,Brian
Here are a few more pics.The new saw and stand work well together. I found that a large recycle bin fits conveniently below the saw, for cut off collection.A series of pictures here, illustrates how easy it is, with this saw, to remove the aux. fence without tools. I broke everything down this morning, moved my shop and quickly set it up again.
Here are some photos of the 5-1/4" baseboards that gave me the excuse to buy the Delta saw, which prompted the saw stand design and construction.The house I am working on has a sunken living room, so I ran the base down the steps.Another photo shows the blade housing design of the Delta...the 5-1/4" base on a 1/2" aux. table still has a full inch of clearance.
Sorry for the late check, I've been away. Nice and nice (but you alredy knew that)
Are these 45 deg miters joining the horizontal and vertical sections of the base? Did you use bicuits for these (or maybe cookies, isn't that what the saran wrap in a previous pic is for?
:-)
I just discovered your post...I'm a little slow.I did not biscuit join the vert. and horizontal pieces of base (they are mitered, glued and 18ga. & 23ga. pinned to each other and 16ga. nailed to the wall.Biscuits would be a good idea though.
I bought a 10" Delta for cheap at Menards about a year ago, just to have a lighter saw for small jobs. It has been a good saw for the little I have used it.
Was just talking to a guy last week that has the Delta you just bought - he loves it.
One thing we both agreed on though - you can do a lot of cutting before you will ever fill that dust bag.
--"One thing we both agreed on though - you can do a lot of cutting before you will ever fill that dust bag."Funny, but true. It's really just a Delta flag flying proudly above the saw. I lose those dust bags, usually. Now that I have built a box for this saw, I might be able to keep the saw, accessories and manual all together...less chance of losing things.
I too have this saw. Have had it for a couple of years. Unfortunately it would not fit on my Delta Sidekick saw stand that I already had. So, I ended up buying the Ridgid MSUV for it.
The dust bag catches some dust. You will find that it doesn't get alot of it. I even hook up my Fein vacuum to it, and it won't collect all of it. It does pick up more, but the saw must not be designed to pick up dust efficiently.
That having been said, I do like the saw. I installed a laser washer on it. That makes it nice to line up the cut quickly and accurately.
Bryan"Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio
My dust collection system is a broom and a dust pan...I would like a Fein, though I use such a variety of dust makers in rapid succession switching vac hoses would be a bother. Would be good for some jobs I am sure.So far, all reports I've heard, on the Delta saw, are good. I have my 10" Hitachi SCMS on a Delta stand.
My new knock down supports came in handy today. Turns out that they are a good height to hold countertops while I bolt up the miters.
BW,
That is one sweet set up. Are you're knock down legs 34-1/2?
Chuck S.live, work, build, ...better with wood
--"Are you're knock down legs 34-1/2?"They are actually 35". The cap adds another 1/2" (and when used with a 1/2" aux. table the final height is 36"). For the countertop support, I left the cap off. This was very close to the height of the cabinets 34-1/2" with 3/4" build up, for a total of 35-1/4" It really did work well.
BW,
I build all of my jobsite supports at 34-1/2 That is the typical dimension for kitchen base cabs less tops.
Thanx for this infomative thread. (seams like a lot of threads are about jack...IMHO)
Chuck S.live, work, build, ...better with wood
My primary work stations are my Bosch table saw and my Hitachi 10"SCMS on the Delta stand, they are both around 36"...so the new Delta 12" CMS station is built to match.Good to know you are diggin' the thread. 8 > {This is my typical set up:
Hey How come that bosch boombox is sitting so low?
Man all that bending over to reach the music.
I don't have to bend over to reach the music...one of the perks of the Bosch radio...she has a remote (makes a nice zipper pull).Actually I put the radio on the wheeled Stanley tool box, after I pull the sanders and grinder out for the day. I should post pics of how I have that tool box set up (corded tools in the bottom and all the grinder and sander accessories in the top tray). Perhaps another thread.
I'm just ribbing you.
Actually I'm hoping some of this organization might rub off, you know like osmosis.
I'm not really as organized as I might seem...you should see my office...and my shop. ; )
The good thing you are doing is keeping all of your stations the same height. Makes it easier on the back.Chuck S.live, work, build, ...better with wood
I think if I were still doing cabinets most of the time, 34-1/2" would be a good choice. This past year I have been doing more countertop jobs then cabinet jobs. For bolting up laminate miters, with build-up already on the cabinets, 35-1/4" is ideal.My new work stands could be made with legs 34-1/2" tall, and caps out of 3/4" stock. Then you could match either height precisely (for some one working with both cabinets & tops). One could make 1-1/2" tall caps too, for a 36" working height. Stands might get top heavy though.I might be getting carried away, but the edging on the caps could be wide enough to allow 9" squares of plywood of different thicknesses to be slipped inside the cap for fine tuning the height (to compensate for different flooring, out of level floors, etc.).
nice stand work couldnt help recognizing the legs of the delta kickstand (aka finger pinching overweight sob) in your pix i went to the hitachi universal work station for my third and final chopsaw support. got missing the rollers from the kickstand so i added two freestanding outfeed rollers and my portable needs have been met
The Delta stand is heavy & takes some getting used to...but the wheels are a help.I actually like the Delta stand (have my Hitachi 10" SCMS on it)...the reason I built a stand....no stands available in the marketplace offer adequate storage and protection of the mitersaw when not in use or when transported. Nor do they allow that work station in the shop or on the job site to be used for other tasks (that space becomes dedicated to just the mitersaw).Being able to use a space for different tasks is especially important in a small shop and for special use saws (this stand is for my tall baseboard and large crown saw).That said, this stand would still be nice even in a large shop or for a saw used every day.Glad you like it.
Edited 1/31/2007 5:04 pm ET by basswood
planning a fixed location for the chopsaw in my own shop someday but for now the portable has to do when sliding stock of longer lengths, i fear that your work supports would tip how is it working for you?
I expect to use this setup as a portable deal, I'll see how that goes soon.The supports are more stable than they look, even when unsecured. If I will be in the same place for a while I screw the support cap that fits snuggly over the supports to the aux. fence/table which is secured to the saw.I'll post more pictures this weekend of how this setup works.