Replies

1. 
   NormKerr | Jul 04, 2003 09:44pm | #1

   there are two ways to approach board and batten siding:

   original = wide, 1x boards attached to the sheething, with ~1 1/2" (or 2") wide strips covering the gaps between the wide boards. Several theories exist about the best nailing for this construction, best summarized as: don't try to prevent the wide boards from growth/shrinkth when you nail them - use the batten strips to provide slippage space for the wide boards.

   modern = T111 or cedar faced ply attached to the sheething, with ~1 1/2" (or 2") wide strips nailed over it at a comfortable spacing to (pretty much) create the impression of a board & batten siding.

   the big advantage of the modern approach is speed and 'tightness' (less gaps in the siding to allow water or bugs to infiltrate - remember that original board & batten was mainly meant as a quick, cheap means of covering an un-insulated building before plywood existed. They used the widest 1x boards that they could cut, which were often unevenly shaped along the edges - this is where the big dis-advantage of the modern approach comes up, it looks "too uniform" compared to the real stuff, to some folks.

   Frankly, since modern 1x boards are very uniform to start with, you could argue that the widths would work out the same for either approach, applied these days. Leaving only the lack of variation of grain and lack of slight levelness to give away when the plywood approach is used (not so visible a difference, from the street).

   In either type of method, pre-finishing all components (on all 6 sides) will go a long way to increasing the life of them.

   I hope that this helps.

   Norm

1. 
   Jamieson | Jul 04, 2003 10:05pm | #2

   Thanks Norm.

   The "modern method" you describe sounds great.  When it is -30 C outside the idea of less gaps allways seems to make more sense.

2. 
   DavidxDoud | Jul 04, 2003 10:40pm | #3

   what norm said...

   I have done a fair amount of B&B and have refined techniques a bit to fit modern situations - most of the problems revolve around all the openings that modern buildings have,  and design/flashing considerations to avoid trapping water between boards -

   the structure to be sided needs horizontal strapping (nailers) at a minimum of every two feet (I like 1 1/2" material better than 1") - plan nailers under the eves that allow for a horzontal trim board nailed over the siding boards,  top edge against the soffit - and another nailer to secure the top end of the battens,  which but up to this trim board - -

   to secure the boards, place one fastener in the middle of the board at each nailer - secure the battens with one fastener in the middle of the batten at each nailer such the this fastener does not 'catch' the siding boards - for a 'refined' structure,  use SS screws - for a 'cabin',  galvanized spiral nails (will get some streaking/staining) -

   flashing doors and windows:  unless under a deep overhang,  it is a mistake to have a horizontal trim element above windows and doors - here is the step by step I use:

   1. flash the bottom of the rough opening. 

   2. set the door/window in the rough opening such that the frame projects past the nailers the thickness of your siding.  

   3. stand a siding board up on either side of the door/window (nearly tight against the frame) and secure. 

   4. flash ('L' shaped galv/copper) above the door/window. 

    5. side the space above the unit,  ripping/spacing siding to fit the width - end the siding with a 45* drip edge about 1 1/2" above the bottom of the flashing. 

   6. batten the siding,  ending the battens with a 45* drip edge also - similarly,  fill in under the windows with siding and battens. 

   7. use a tall batten on either side of the opening to trim between the siding and door/window frame -

   I like 2 1/2" battens,  beveled;  set the table saw @ 60* or so and run them thru on edge,  leaving about 1/4" thickness at the outside edge - more refined and helps the batten lay tight on the board -

   I did one job of clear material,  surfaced all sides,  near furniture quality - -rough material catches dirt - spider webs - not as tight - etc,  but is quick and easy - suit your own taste/budget/skill

1. 
   royr | Jul 05, 2003 02:09am | #4

   I repaired many homes in Killington, VT in the 80's that had Board & Batten that did

   not have a freeze board below as the mice used it as  a  highway under the batten into the home.