Replies

1. 
   Norm_Kerr | Oct 21, 1999 09:57pm | #1

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   Having a floor drain next to the boiler is a very convenient thing to have (and, presumably, next to the water heater too). I have been living with a 5gal bucket until I could install a floor drain and am really looking forward to the improvement. (With a 100 yr old steam system, you have to 'blow down' the float valve weekly to prevent sediment interfering with its function).

   My main concern with floor drainage was standing water in the pipes (the trap and the sump pump well). The thought of a sump crock with 3" of water in it all the time I didn't like.

   My countermeasure for that was to fit a 'sanitary' crock (it has a sealed lid) and a vent stack. Now the only water in my basement is the same that is in all my sinks: the trap water. Should never notice it.

   Now, the other concern I bet you have is with outside water coming into your basement by backflowing up the waste pipe. You prevent this by adding an anti-backflow valve to your outlet pipe of the sump pump.

   Some communities have a code against tapping your sump or other drainage into your sewer line (which makes sense, they want to avoid overloading the treatment plant during storms). Some communities will allow you to tap into the storm drain (the street gutter), but this isn't cheap.
   If you drain your outlet to daylight or a cistern, maybe a screen over the outlet is a good idea (critters).
   It seems to me that if you really only put a small amount of water into the outlet, that you could tap it into your sewer (you would have put the water there anyway, using the 5 gal bucket method).

   Finally, if you add the floor drain, you can also add some perimiter drainage inside your basement walls, if there is not much built in to your foundation (re: realy old house).
   Make sure to slope the "Y" joint down into your 'wet' floor drain so that you are only draining water from the foundation, not pouring it in every time you use the drains!

   I hope that some of you plumbers, heaters, experts out there in web-land will comment if there's anything wrong with this scenario (I haven't built mine yet).

1. 
   Mike_Guertin | Oct 25, 1999 03:27am | #2

   *I wouldn't count on floor drains in some situations. High seasonal water tables could be a problem. Plus, moisture vapor (a little really) can enter basement through drain. We put boilers in 90% of all the houses we build. Our Standard protocol is to install the boiler on top of a pedistal. This can be several dry set concrete blocks even. Get it up a minimum of 18". This makes service easier since you don't have to bend so far over, and you can get the 5 gallon pails beneath the draincock.Most systems don't have more than 15 gallons in the tubing. The low mass boilers we've been using don't hold much water to speak of. And with a lot of installers using antifreeze solutions to fill systems, you're better off not dumping into the ground under your house.

1. 
   Bob_Sutton | Oct 26, 1999 06:31am | #3

   *Thanks Mike - I think I agree with your reasoning and practical approach. I will elevate and caryy out buckets. Seems a lot safer. I feel much better about not having a drain to worry about anyway.

2. 
   Bob_Sutton | Oct 26, 1999 06:31am | #4

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   Hi all. Planning to put boiler for radiant floor heating system in basement below one small part of living area. Plan to use sealed combustion style unit with combustion air from outdoors (direct vented). This basement is to be sealed from the weather and hopefully with proper footing drainage will stay dry. Do you think I should add a drain in the basement for eventual drain down of heating systems or domestic water ?? I am worried about this becoming a source for water to get in to the basement. What other solution have you guys done to accomodate system drainage when it is below grade like this ???