Sweet. 10oz finish hammer that drives 16P with less effort. Can’t imagine their big framing hammer, must sink em’ with one swing!
Plus it’s quiet, not a ringer.
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Christmas gift?
Hi Rez,
Yes....to myself. Trying to help my sore wrists and elbows.
I got that hammer last Christmas. Nice.Really lightens the tool belt too.
It's amazing how a few onces affect the tool belt. I'm down to a nail pouch big enough to hold a tape measure. I put two spikes under the tape in case I need them. I have another sheath for my knife and pencil and a hammer loop for my stillto (14oz). All the rest of the tools are stored in my tool box which is one or two steps away, if needed. I store my "toolbelt" in the box. Oh yeah...my belt is an old very thin lightweight leather belt that I used to wear with a suit and tie. Total weight: very light indeed. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I just got the Occidental 9525 Finisher tool belt. Only weighs 3 Lbs. That coupled with Ti hammer, Ti cats paw, and Ti nails and I'm good to go!
I use the Oxy Tool Chest without the bottom bags, I'll post a pic later.
On big jobs, I often use a tool cart. It keeps my tools within easy reach and really lightens the tool belt:
Boy o boy--you musta just finished a major cleanup before those pics were taken!
Last year i traded in a 20-oz eastwing (20 plus years with that model. Wuss, eh) on a Japanese "Dogyu" hammer from Lee Valley. Real sweet, well balanced, easy to get used to , and a helluva lot cheaper than a Stilletto. (was 40sum odd bucks) Sometimes miss the ripping claws, but now often.
Edited 12/27/2007 8:54 pm ET by gatno
I have both hammers and I switch back and forth as the mood strikes me. The Japanese hammer is pretty sweet. Those claws can really pull a nail and the faces on the side of the hammer are nice for gettin in between floor joists and other tight spots.
"Dogyu" has replaced my Eastwing for everything but demolition. I love watching young framers with supersized everything in their work belts struggle just to walk.
Dogyu also feels much nicer when you dimple your thumb too.
I use a 16 oz smooth faced estwing for everything. I gave up waffle headed mini sledge hammers when I finally learned how to hit a nail!from fury to finesse.
I remember Al Gore was at a Habitat for Humanity project where he sunk a 16 penny nail in 33 swings. Jimmy Carter, who was looking on, commented that even Rosalynn could do it in 5.
You know I have seen your cart a dozen times and it never occured to me that you had it next to you while you worked.I always pictured it as a centralized work station.
Feeling pretty dumb.
ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
What you were thinking makes sense too. Sometimes the cart is just a work station, sometimes it moves around with me, other times it is just a tool cache on secure jobs where the tools spend the night.Now the cart is in the shop being used as a lumber rack on wheels.
I have one of those fold up scaffolds too. I see you replaced the original walk boards with full width custom boards. What material did you use to make the new shelf/walk boards ?
I think I got mine at HD a few years ago for about $70. I should have bought two. I think the normal price was a little over $100 then. I like the versatility of the size and with the split metal boards, I can set one low and one high to get a walk up feature. It sure makes getting up and down a whole lot easier on these old bones.
Next time I see them on sale I'll pick up another one to make into a tool cart like yours. Might even retire my old bakers scaffold, though it makes an excellent work surface/ assembly table.
Dave
I used 1/2" MDO with 1x2 oak at the front and back edges for strength. The metal planks are still useful for heavier work, but I like how light the wood planks are and being able to easily make holes for tools is handy.MDO is a nice work surface...I often write measurements and notes on the planksLike you, I find the size of the mini scaffold very handy.My scaffold is the last item to be loaded into the van and the first thing out...load my tools for the day on the cart and wheel it into the job...I try not to carry much--that is why they invented the wheel afterall. ;o)OP: sorry for the hijack.
no problem Basswood, enjoy reading your ideas and seeing the cart. Nice work station.
I can be rude without even trying, so I thought it might be good to apologize.I used to be a teacher and still like sharing ideas. BT is place I get to throw my ideas around...have enough ideas and some of them might actually be good. ;o)Lunch break is over...better go get some stuff done.
Oh yeah?
Well, I Have a 13.5 oz Ti framing hammer with a utility knife integrated into the handle. There is a slot there for my self-sharpening pencil too. The hammer is so light that I just extend the point of the pencil at the base of the handle and mark with the hammer. My tape is also integrated into the handle. Of course, when marking and using the tape at the same time, I have to pop out the pencil. I keep two spikes in clips in the upper part of the handle.
There is no need for a pouch or a belt since I am continuously using the hammer throughout the day. I never put it down. If I should have to carry some materials with both hands, I just slip the hammer into an oversized belt loop.
What did I do with my Hart Woody and my old tool pouch? I welded a spike on the Hart and bored a hole in the handle. My old pouch with pry bar, a small assortment of nails, and so on, is tied to the Hart through the hole in the handle. As I move around the jobsite, I just bang the hart into a stud and Voila! - my other tools are within easy reach at just the right height. I also keep my i-phone in the pouch. This way, I can bring up AutoCAD drawings of my plans while I am talking to the lumberyard.
You are probably wondering about where I keep my chalk line. I use the new mini Tajima. It fits into my pocket. :)
What would you need a chalk line for? Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I'm one of those people who prefers to follow a line, although I have experimented cutting by eye. It was too much stress for me to go against the grain. I can also cut dimensional lumber pretty good without drawing a line, but prefer to lean in the perfectionist direction. I guess if I had done more freehand, I would have been a financially more successful framer.
Chalklines are a necessary evil for snapping layout lines for the walls and partitions but after that, I rarely need one. There's one in my tool box a few steps away when I do though. For the most part, I use my pencil and tape and scribe long lines on sheet stock using the edge as the guide. I once saw a guy snapping a line on a 1x6 that he intended to rip. I asked him how he was going to account for the crown. He had no answer.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Don't you use a chalkline to straighten a wall before bracing and then installation of joists?
He eyeballs them dude. seriously. Along with hips and ridges.
He uses a speed square as a ninja throwing star. He told me his other use for it but thats for the tavern.
Woods favorite carpenter
I probably string a line more for hips than any other component, other than the snapped layout line for pars. Most hips are 20' or less and a first day rookie can see a curve in 20'. If he can't, he better learn in the next 30 seconds. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
You have to go through guys like firewood in your metal bucket next to your assembly table.
You come off as a little rough on the help, but from my experience those guys were the ones I learned the most from. When it was all said and done I respected them more as well.
You guys framed much different than we do only a few hours away. Your walls go up with plywood soffitt and fascia installed. Keeping your walls very straight I imagine.
I haven't seen plywood soffit here at all, walls go up with sheathing and Tyvek. Aluminum overhangs get applied later by the siding crew. Woods favorite carpenter
I was very rough to work with unless they guy had an open mind. There were a lot of guys that couldn't/wouldn't try to understand the things I demanded that they do. Look around this forum and you'll find that 90% of the guys think I'm whacky or a hack or I don't know what I'm talking about. That is probably the same ratio of guys that walked onto my job-sites too. Of course, that meant that 9 out of 10 didn't stay. The 10% that stayed around learned to work the same way though and none of them would do it any other way. They also will all say nice things about me even though they sometimes hated working with me. You are right about the differences in framing style. Around the metro Detroit area, we all frame the same way. Occasionally, we'd see ONE house get framed without the sheathing or overhangs. We'd never see a second one....as the builder would not get caught by the crew again. By the way, I think your comment about my style was aimed at my comment about allowing the guy about 30 seconds to learn how to sight something straight. Actually, I made that comment because it's that simple to teach someone how to see the curve or straightness of a piece. I gueged the eye of every new rookie by spending a minute or so with him and teaching him about crowns. I'd search for a plank that had a very slight crown (1/8") and ask him if he could see it. I'd then verify which way he thought it was crowned to truly know that he saw it. If he could see that, then I knew he could sight a wall straight, with a little bit further instruction. It really is basic carpentry. There are some guys that can't see it or can't understand it. They need to find different careers or find a way to fix their eyesight. Seeing is huge part of carpentry, just like it would be if they were trying to hire on as sharpshooter on the swat team. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
You've tought me a few very valuable framing tricks that have made my life easier. And I've never met you.
The converstion about girders and fascia being set points in a truss system was one.
Another was prebuilding sections of rooflines on the ground.
If I can learn that without every stepping foot on your job, I would have learned a much easier way of standing a house up I imagine.
I learned one thing from Diesel, have the new guy crown a bunk of plywood. LOL Woods favorite carpenter
Matt, every day of my carpentry life, I lived it with one guiding thought: how can I make this day easier? I never accepted the idea that I should skip a few nails to make my job faster/easier but I turned every stone over looking for easier ways. Everything I was taught, I challenged. If it didn't have a logical explanation, I searched for one. I don't know any other guys that think and build like me except the guys that I've trained. Even those guys do many things different that I wouldn't. I keep my mouth shut on site now because I don't want to be the meddling type guy that shows up and yaps, then leaves. I don't feel that I have the right to talk/teach the carpenters on the job unless I'm there working full time. I don't think that will happen again. I might do some specialized stuff...I don't know. Maybe if I can find a way to rehab my back....I'm glad that I gave you a tidbit or two. I learned a lot from others and it's only fair to pass some of it on. I wouldn't offer any of it to my competition though. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Much like yourself I try to find easier ways of getting a job done quicker. Some I find myself and some I learn from others, some are a combination of both.
Have a good New Year in your new city Jim.
Woods favorite carpenter
what an amazing ego! Only here do i get to experience such a spectacle.
Yes Zachariah, I have a big ego with these very simple tasks. Don't ask me to build anything oval or circular though. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
all in good fun jim!!!
Like you I'm always trying to improve. Constantly looking for ways to do things faster, better and cheaper. I suspect many people reach a comfort level and then stop thinking about what they are doing at work or elsewhere. The people on this forum who are here to learn and share are obviously not like that. Thank you for your many posts.
Yeah - and remember how he used to challenge us with his milk bone quizzes?View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
I can give you more milkbone quizzes. I still have a few milkbones stashed. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
They were fun to follow. I have not done much framing since the mid 80's so my dog is lucky I don't have to win treats for him.
Thanks Sispyhus. I just explained the system for straightening walls up to 50-60'. It's actually a very simple process as long as it is done in a methodical way. I didn't start my career doing them that efficient. In my apprentice days, I do remember needing as much as 2, maybe 3 or 4 hours to straighten up a 1300 sf house. And that was using 2 guys! That's burning 4 to 8 hours on a 30 minute job!!!!!Nowadays, I can walkaround a job with a helper and get the perimeter done in 10 minutes. I then drop back and plumb every outside corner. Then, there are usually three or four partitions that need an eye on each side of a house. Total time would be 30 minutes max and some houses only take 10 or 15 minutes (with two guys). Remember....all the top plates are decent! If I find a bad one, I check to see which carpenter (he must be a new guy) did it and I MAKE THEM TAKE THE BAD PLATE OFF AND PUT A STRAIGHT ONE ON!!!! That solves that problem forever because they know they'll have to do that everytime! Many experienced framers struggle with the straghtening process and when I watch them, I always notice that they don't have a consistent theory of attack. They make the job much harder than they need to by starting in weird places or using wrong lengths for braces and kickers. They also have the wrong sized ladders and don't sytematically progress around and through the house.In framing, everything looks chaotic, but if you want to be efficeint, nothing is random. Every piece you touch is critical because you touch so many. If you handle a piece three times, when you only need to handle it twice, you have bumped the time up on it by 50%. Like I said....nothing is random. Everything about a rough frame is systemized and when you study every system in the erection of a house, there are significant efficiencies to be gained....and usually the job gets much easier. For me, easier is key because I'm very lazy. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Nowadays, I can walkaround a job with a helper and get the perimeter done in 10 minutes. I then drop back and plumb every outside corner.
Hopefully you mean interior outside corners?
No, I mean all the exterior walls. Most of the outside walls are short and squatty. The back wall will take the center brace, then several "holders". The two side walls will take a center brace and several holders. The front wall is usually cut up and there might be several 14' walls (dining room and study). Since the plates are straight, they need holders. We basically are walking around the perimeter nailing holders. Occasionally, one needs a "push", which normally is nothing more than an extra swat on the bottom. All the braces are gun nailed. I normally site two walls off my ladder perch. My partner knows exactly what to do and where the "holders" need to go. If I look down a 40' wall and already have the center plumbed, it usually needs two holders and the helper has already carried two into that area. While he's nailing them, I'm jumping down and moving my ladder and grabbing two more braces for the other 20' area. I also grab several more for the side wall. I'm talking 10 minutes for the perimeter on a normal sized home. Normal is 3000 sf total so the lower level is maybe 1800 sf. We are talking about 12 or 13 braces. The hleper can get the holders done in 30 seconds. The most time is spent dragging the hose and gun through the partitions but we normally just borrow the other guys guns when we walk into the area. Also, we lose the level a lot and that will burn minutes in a hurry.15 minutes might be more likely....I don't really look at my watch but I know for a fact that we couldn't spend 30 minutes because if things were taking that long, I'd walk out and eat a snack rather than deal with whatever is slowing down theprocess.Of course, when a weird problem occurs, that time becomes extra. We spend the extra time tracking down why something isn't straight or cant be easily straightened. That usually invovles an intersection of some sort. Fixes can be five seconds to an hour. Hour fixes are extremely rare anymore but they used to be quite common in my youth...the result of poorly chosen methods. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Nowadays, I can walkaround a job with a helper and get the perimeter done in 10 minutes. I then drop back and plumb every outside corner.
Maybe I'm not understanding what you are saying, but if you straighten walls and then plumb the corners the wall is no longer straight.
Sorry, I take it for granted that you know that we square and sheath our walls before they are stood up. That means that every outside corner on on the outside walls is already locked in and plumb. Straightening all the outside walls is step one. Step two is to straighten all the inside partitions. The first step we take to straighten the inside partitions is to plumb all the "outside corners". Those are the interior partition corners. Usually, after plumbing these corners up, the entire job is fairly straight and there might be six or seven long walls that need a quick brace. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I have always started with a level deck and squared, sheathed walls. It takes some work to start with a level deck, since the state of the art of foundation and basement walls is even worse than that of framing. Footings are poured into a ditch, leveled approximately, and then banged-up forms are assembled by low-paid workers who don't give a hoot. The order of the day is FAST FAST FAST!! The result is almost always a concrete base for the home which is neither level nor square.
Most framers just don't worry about it. They go with what they are given. It is easier for the business to survive that way because it takes more expertise, effort, and time to get the mudsills right.
If you build a square, level deck and get the walls straight and properly sheathed, the corners will be plumb. No adjustment necessary - only a check with a plate level in case someone has made a mistake. If not, you will have to tweak them.
Having done the first steps properly, bracing and adjustment of outside walls is the next step. Eyes are good, but better with string.
"It takes some work to start with a level deck, since the state of the art of foundation and basement walls is even worse than that of framing."That's an interesting comment because I have an opinion which is 180 degrees!I bought my first builders level (trasit) back in the 80's because I was tired of the poorly leveled basements and wanted an alternate method of squaring a job because everything I worked on was extremely cut up. Abut the mid 90's, the use of lasers became common and the foundations all started coming in level and I started leaving the thing back in the barn. Even when the foundations were out of level, I didn't find it much work to level them. I used to set up the transit and have a helper walk around and shoot each corner. I'd have them write each number on the concrete wall (or mudsill if I set it first). After shooting them all, I'd have them place steel shims under the sill plate at the low points. The worst cases were always in winter and the most I've ever shimmed was 1/2" that I can remember. Once all the corners (and center points of long walls) were shimmed, it was a simple process to set the rim joist and shim all the rest of the mudsills up to it. In later years, I deferred this task till after the outside walls were standing and then shimmed everything up tight to the walls. I still do that today. Here in Texas, the first slab we worked on was about 1" low on a corner and we set all our walls up first, then shimmed them level. You said "Eyes are good, but better with string" and I'd be inclined to agree except that I've done it both ways and I've never lined a wall that looked straight after it was done. In EVERY case, when I double checked it, there was always something that needed tweaking. Maybe I don't know how to line things as good as you. I've tried both methods: offset lines and lines above the edge and in both cases, they get it straight in general, but there are always spots that jump out at me after I'm done. The eye sees every inch. The offset line is checked with a guage at intervals and the results to me are OK but not perfect. If I can't achieve perfect with the extra time, and end up tweaking it by eye, I just can't justify it for me. Do you ever sight the wall after you've lined it, or do you just assume that it's perfect? Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
luckily I am the guy that oversees footer layout, excavating, batter boards, and I also set my own storypoles at all the corners. Having that amount of control at the beginning of a job makes it so much easier all the way through!
Edited 1/1/2008 7:16 pm ET by zachariah
Do you ever sight the wall after you've lined it, or do you just assume that it's perfect?
I sight it, then I align it (with a line). Because every job has its peculiarities, I use my eyes as final judgment. If it doesn't look right, (walls in between obscuring the picture, etc), the string determines the outcome.
I bought my first builders level (trasit) back in the 80's because I was tired of the poorly leveled basements and wanted an alternate method of squaring a job because everything I worked on was extremely cut up. Abut the mid 90's, the use of lasers became common and the foundations all started coming in level and I started leaving the thing back in the barn.
Before I went into business with my own company, I had learned to check foundations. I used my lasers and used AutoCAD to figure out what was going on in each foundation. I had been hired to replace the guy who had screwed up a number of decks (first floor, not barbecue deck). I found significant defects in the leveling and squaring of the foundations. That foundation contractor got fired, BTW.
On my own, I decided I would not have the same problems. I measured accurately, with lasers and verifying with tapes, everything I have ever done, and have computer files of all results.
I do not believe that lasers have improved either foundation construction or framing in the residential market. They are simply not used, except in large commercial projects, IMO. I have seen many foundations go up with nary a laser in sight. I have seen the company quality control inspector in the act of being incompetent to determine either squareness or uniformity of elevation. Therefore, I must disagree with you. Lasers have not had a big impact in residential construction beyond the site development stage, which does not impact either the foundation crews or the framing crews.
Even when the foundations were out of level, I didn't find it much work to level them. I used to set up the transit and have a helper walk around and shoot each corner. I'd have them write each number on the concrete wall (or mudsill if I set it first). After shooting them all, I'd have them place steel shims under the sill plate at the low points. The worst cases were always in winter and the most I've ever shimmed was 1/2" that I can remember.
My method was to shoot a line around the entire foundation about a foot down from what i considered to be the high point (on the inside of the basement, of course). From there, we measured up to the top of the foundation perimeter to determine the low spots. If the discrepancies were too great, the foundation contractor had to come in with a grinder for the high spots and structural grout for the low spots. Otherwise, metal shims were placed under the mudsills at the point where each I-Joist would land. Correcting discrepancies of 1-1/2" between the highest and lowest parts of the foundation was not uncommon.
Frankly, it does not make sense to me to level the deck after you have the outside walls up, unless you don't sheathe the walls first. I have some experience watching a California crew who came in to show us how to do the job faster. They put their sheathing on after erecting the walls (big time waster!). I guess they knew the foundations were not level, so it would be easier to cheat the sheathing on after the walls were erected. They also made huge mistakes in the basic layout of the mudsills, reversed the first floor joist layout (screwing up the plumbing and electrical runs in the process), and actually took over twice as long as my crew to nearly complete the job before they were fired.
It's apparent that we have had different experiences with the foundation contractors and their history of lasers and levels. Even the smallest garage footing contractors started using lasers in MI when they first came out. The poured wall guys were the first to show up with them and they always had the latest gizmos as far back as I remember. It makes sense though...some of them are carrying around 200k (125k crane and 75k forms and truck) worth of equipment, so the investment of a tool that will speed them up was never a big decision. You said: "rankly, it does not make sense to me to level the deck after you have the outside walls up, unless you don't sheathe the walls first. "It makes perfect sense to me. We use the wall as our straightedge and it's works perfect, even if it's not perfect. Since you sheath your walls while they are down, you obviously know that there are steps taken to ensure that the wall is a true square or rectangle. That means that the bottom plate is straight. Given that the bottom plate is straight, we simply shim the deck up to it, if there are any gaps. Once the deck is shimmed tight to the straight wall, it too is straight. Wouldn't you agree? Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
The problem with shims is that loads that are normally distributed evenly become point loads, more or less. It looks great during the framing phase, but allows sagging around the shims over time. Also, this does not provide a truly level floor. Granted, most small variations in floors are not noticeable. Our goal should still be to have level and squared floors. Depending on the size of the discrepancy, both the sagging and the unlevel floors can span the spectrum from inconsequential to downright ugly. If shimming is done, it should be at the level between the foundation and the mudsill.
This small and often-overlooked technique makes the rest of the framing job simple. Truly squared walls go up easily with corners snug at top and bottom and no requirement for plumbing unless a mistake has been made. Done properly, the walls cannot be anything but plumb at the corners.
"If shimming is done, it should be at the level between the foundation and the mudsill."Thats how we do it. We typically shim under every joist and other bearing points. The void between the joists or studs is carrying zero loading and is filled with insulation material by the builder (usually expanding foam). Grout would be another good choice but since we already are structurally carrying every load, it is not necessary."This small and often-overlooked technique makes the rest of the framing job simple. Truly squared walls go up easily with corners snug at top and bottom and no requirement for plumbing unless a mistake has been made. Done properly, the walls cannot be anything but plumb at the corners."I think we agree!
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
gotcha! makes sense to me!!
No. Over the years, there would be an occasional wall that I couldn't straighten by eye. They normally would be walls longer than 50' and have something weird about them. Then, I'd do my usual routine then see that the wall wasn't straight. I'd then be stumped and have to string the line. Usually, when that happened it was because the bottom line was snapped in the wind and it had a curve in it. Of course, then we'd have to straighten the top, then backtrack down and re-straighten the bottom.Incidently, I've never seen a wall straightened with a line, that didn't need some more tweaking by eye. Every once in a while, I'd get a new hire that insisted on using a line. He'd string the line, then go about the bracing business. He'd then roll up the line and proclaim it done and straight. I'd climb the ladder and check his work and I NEVER SAW A STRAIGHT WALL. NOT ONE! It's impossible to straighten a wall with a line straighter than by eye, unless you are going to slide your block along every single inch of the wall. The eye sees it all. Most guys only check with their block every few feet. You don't straighten with a chalkline do you? If you do, the next time you straighten a 30' wall, put your eye on it and tell me if it's perfect or not. I'll bet five milkbones that there's something visibly wrong with it. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I do use a chalkline. I also check by eye.
My hat's off to you to be able to do it with only the eye!
Its not that hard. I know for a fact that your eye could easily detect everything you need to see to get a wall straight. On the vast majority of the walls we have to straighten, our basic system usually works without incident. First, we implore the golden Arule: only straight, or slightly crowned plates are used on both top layers. No "s" curves allowed. Once the walls are framed with those good plates, it's actually very easy. Of course, the two ends start out plumb, or we replumb them. I then go to the center of the wall and plumb and brace it. In 90% of the cases, the entire wall will need only a slight push or pull between those three set points. A 40' wall is broken into 20' walls using that method. ALL OF US IN HERE CAN SIGHT 20'. Once the closest 20' is straightened, I move to the other end and straighten that 20'. When I get that straight, I look down the entire wall. 98 time out of a 100 it looks perfect. If it doesn't we tweak it till it does, which usually means tapping a brace or adding a kicker to pull it in. I have been doing this since I took over running a job back in the 70's. It's nothing special and 90% of the workforce can do it. The other 10% have eye problems and need glasses or a new career or need to just admit that straightening walls is not their cup of tea. They probably make great cabinet builders... Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
What would you need a chalk line for?
Hopscotch, silly!View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
what became of that trailer???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
This one? (sold it)
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View ImageView Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
neither..'the one out in the hills that you were asking about...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
OK, I'll tell ya. And then I should post it on the other thread, in case anyone wants to know. My bid was 48K. There were about 5 bids, and I was dead center. Winning bid was 33K. Next was 38K. Then me. Then 65K. Then 90K. I excluded any concrete work from my bid. I probably could have made money at 38K, but definitely wouldn't want it at 33K. Maybe he lives up there, but I couldn't do the commute or motel/per diem, and have made any money. It was a great learning experience for me, and I appreciate all the help and advice I got. Bidding is the toughest part of this crazy busness!View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
or this one? (recently moved it to new location - I'm now set up in the yard of a glass-shop owned by a buddy of mine)
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View ImageView Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
what became of that trailer???
...and since you asked, here's a picture of it in its new home.
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Not very glamorous, but it sure feels good to have 'er plugged back in! I feel so sentimental about it, maybe I'll get ambitious enough to start a new thread on the subject!View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
Syma
I have their big framing hammer and I love it.. it solved my tennis elbow issue completely and yeh it really swats "em..
Only complaints..
1
the little magnet to hold a nail in place dropped out shortly after purchase
2
if you use it to pull nails it nicks the claws
Hey Frenchy,
I can see where the magnet might come loose. It is a tiny rare earth magnet with a dot of epoxy under it. I would just re-epoxy it back.As far as the nicks in the claw, do you mean the nails are denting into the Titanium?
Syma
Yes! Oh and the magnet flew off into space someplace.
You're going to love it my friend. I have both the 10 finisher and the 14 framer. Finishing is mostly what I do so the little 10 has become my "baby".