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Bob & Rob, suspect you are thinking of graphite straps which are epoxied to the walls. try [email protected], they have been out about a year.
We paid a local engineer to check them out for us and he gave them an OK. They are not cheap and you will have to have a qualified installer place them for you. if the e-0mail doesn’t work contact me and I will dig out an 800 number for you.
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Bob & Rob, suspect you are thinking of graphite straps which are epoxied to the walls. try [email protected], they have been out about a year.
We paid a local engineer to check them out for us and he gave them an OK. They are not cheap and you will have to have a qualified installer place them for you. if the e-0mail doesn't work contact me and I will dig out an 800 number for you.
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Dallas,
The AOL search engine came up dry Is the spelling right? The 800 # would work as well.
ROb
*Also, trying it as an email address came up dry, or, rather, bounced back.Bob
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I rember reading about a method of repairing bowed block walls that involves a carbon membrane / sheet that is glued to the wall over the crack to stop the movemetn. It is supposed to be a better solution than steel beams. Does any one know about this, where I can get additional info & if any one has used it?
*Rob,I'll be interested if anyone comes up with info.I've never run across that system and there are a lot of bowed block walls in my area (NW Ohio) and many have been "repaired." Most with vertical C-channel, some with earth screws. (If I can find em and reduce the image size, I'll post some pics of an amateur repair I saw awhile ago.)On a conceptual level, adhering a membrane which (i) is strong and (ii) doesn't stretch, will provide tensile (I think it's tensile) strength to wall: the Block 'n' Bond wall system is supposed to have much greater resistence to lateral forces than mortar laid block because of this.On a practical level, steel posts, etc, often are merely treating the symptoms: fixing the problem involves reducing the expansive pressures against the wall: expansive clay soils (if the cracks are well below grade) and freezing water forming ice lens (if the cracks are at or slightly below grade.)Water control (downspout extensions and positive grading of the soil away from the house) are the first line of defense against those conditions.Bob