I have a cottage under construction. They cased out the window exteriors last week. Looks like garbage- exposed trim nails on the face of the break metal coil casings. So, I told them it will have to be re-done the right way.
Are there good directions out there? I have not done it in almost 20 years, and then only as an apprentice to a very good trim guy. Now, as an architect, I only remember bits and pieces of his technique, but I know what the finished product should look like. Where do these guys go to learn the right way? By the way, up to this point, I have been very pleased with their work.
Replies
Post some pictures of the work in question.
I learned from a guy that gave me my first real job in this business, he was a jerk but he knew his stuff. I wouldn't reccomend learning from him.
What other than the face nails is bad? Did they bend the stuff to the wrong sizes?
If they bend it to the casing or brickmold dimension it should look good.
What the problem is?
You can go to websites for vanmark or tempco and get basics on bending and installing, only time and patience will let them be good at it.
Where you at?
She said, "Tell me, are you a christion child?"
I Said, "Ma'am I am tonight" from, Walking in Memphis
November 18th, be the walker
is this one of those degree of perfect questions
All,
I am not being too picky. My wife commented on the exposed fasteners and dimpled casings without my having mentioned the problem I had with it. I am not looking for anything special- just concientious detailing to "industry standards".
Where they face nailed, I would have folded the casing around the blocking and nailed from the bottom/ side. That nail would then be covered by the siding and J trim.
Project location is in Ontario, Canada, about 3 hours from where I live/ work in the Syracuse, NY area.
I neglected to take good photos of the dimpled casings. From the attached photos you can see the 2x4 blocking they are wrapping with trim coil. While it is not gutter coil (.032"), it is heavy trim coil (probably .024").
My problem is that they did such a good job with it, then boogered it all up with the exposed fasteners, which caused rippling around the nail heads.
As some of you have pointed out, there is no answer in the back of the book for this one. You have to learn from an experienced installer.
It that house on 6x6 or 8x8 piling
6x6's sitting on 2'x2' concrete piers anchored to bedrock
The head piece of trim stock should have been mitered that would do away with the face nails and the ripples there.
Where nails are needed tell them to nail in the sides of the window trim not the face.
One of the pictures looks like the side piece was put on then the top which is right, but you can see the profile through the top piece, which means they probably hit the head piece witht their hand thus bending it.
It's an easy profile just tell them to tear it off and try again. This time overbend the sides so it pinchs itself on and cuts down on the amount of nails needed to hold the piece on.
What the problem is?
Here are few pics I took yesterday of the brake work I do for doors.
What the problem is?
Instead of worrying about the crappy brakemetal work, you should pay more attention to the fact that the housewrap installation is totally flawed. In pic 11, the upper door (or window) has not flashing membrane behind it. In addition, the housewrap starts and stops all over the wall, which would lead me to believe that the installers aren't properly lapping the joints. This problem seems to be occuring in all of the pictures.
The exposed trim nails will be the least of your worries when you're dealing with rot and a huge case of mold in a year or so (if it takes that long).
Bob
Bstcrpntr
Do you have links to those manufacturer's sites? A quick search did not reveal the correct ones.
The care and style of the joinery at the corners is the most important factor in getting a high quality look. It is too complex for me to type out here.
One easy upgrade is to use gutter coil instead of trim coil. The much heavier guage metal will hold it's shapes better especially on the flats and always looks sharper (I learned this while working for a company that sold more gutters than siding and used the short ends of gutter coil for their trim stock). It does take a little more effort to score and cut and the brake needs to be well adjusted but you'll like the results and your trim will be very much sturdier as well as prettier and neater looking. Try contacting continuous gutter dealers and getting their short roll ends (a full roll of gutter coil is pretty heavy and a whole lotta metal).
The gutter coil also allows for easier nailing as the nails can be spaced further apart and mostly nailed on the sides where they are not much visible. Sometimes on an inside corner even just a caulk bead will do most or even all of the securing (the fewer nails the better as long as the metal is securely fastened).
The aluminum nails are pure crap too... get some galvanized and painted steel, ring shank if you can find them... maze nails makes some that HD or Lowes usually carry. The heads are much smaller and you can actually drive them easily and they WILL NOT BACK OUT!
You have to be careful when cutting the forty fives on the face miters not to stretch the metal as that will give a rippled or puffed edge that will NOT lay flat. There are no organized lessons for this stuff most places, you need an experienced hand to show them... check out siding distributors for references.
Now that I've seen the pics you might have trouble finding gutter coil in the right color so settle for the heaviest trim coil you can get.
Just get white nails and paint them... because the paint on the heads is often damaged it is reasonable to paint the exposed heads with a small touch up brush after the installation is finished. Done right most of the nail heads will not be exposed anyway and it won't matter what color they are.
Edited 9/4/2006 11:34 pm ET by bigfootnampa
Great info but really hard to read, hit enter about every five lines or so, makes it easier to find where you were when you blink. Do not worry about true paragraphing, your english teacher is probably not looking. (:-)