FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Builder v Engineer

CloudHidden | Posted in Construction Techniques on May 3, 2007 05:57am

Engineer specifies a 18″ footer width. Plans drawn as such. Builder says he wants 24″. Engineer says he doesn’t care, as long as they are at least 18″. Should plans be redrawn for 24″?

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. Hudson Valley Carpenter | May 03, 2007 06:05pm | #1
    89447.1 

    <<Engineer specifies a 18" footer width. Plans drawn as such. Builder says he wants 24". Engineer says he doesn't care, as long as they are at least 18". Should plans be redrawn for 24"?>>

    Not long ago this question would've evoked smiles and laughs on all sides.  Nowadays, sad to say, t'ain't nothin' funny about it.

      The usual rule of thumb is..."meets or exceeds"...so I wouldn't mention the change to anyone.  IMO, it's not likely to be noticed and, if it is, there can be no serious complaint about it.

  2. User avater
    jagwah | May 03, 2007 06:12pm | #2

    I am not an engineer but as a point of CYA your left to adjust to the needs of the bigger footer. This might throw the liability your way.

    Let's say for sake of argument  the 18" footer is actually inadequate, all issues come back on the engineer or architect. But you adjusting to the builders demands without upgraded spec's put all issues on you.

    If the engineer doesn't care fine but the builder should pay for the engineers rework. Cost of his desire to be Code Plus as it were.

    Just my thoughts because I've been there in the middle between builder and architect. I don't care what they want happy to oblige but I don't want to be fall guy.

     

    1. User avater
      CloudHidden | May 03, 2007 06:40pm | #5

      To clarify, I'll draw whatever the engineer specifies. My position is that we can't be changing drawings each time a builder states a different preference to the HO. If the builder want to do something else, that's their prerogative, but that doesn't mean a new drawing necessarily.Here's an example. Engineer specified an 18" footer. I drew that to match. Builder tells HO that the county won't approve an 18" footer for anything. I call county and they say of course they'll approve whatever is specified on sealed engineering. He says that sometimes guys will go with a 24" footer because that's the size of the bucket digging the trench. So, do we redraw 18" as 24" for builder convenience at cost to client, or stick with the 18" specified on the drawings and if he goes wider, that's his choice? I like to accommodate builders, but...

      Edited 5/3/2007 11:44 am ET by CloudHidden

      1. User avater
        jagwah | May 03, 2007 06:54pm | #8

        Anytime things are CodePlus or greater than engineered I think it's great. Only considerations usually are is the improvement expense justified to the benefit of the increase.

        In this case as you've said the fact that it may be due to simply bucket size or forming materials makes since if the cost of a new bucket, machine or additional forms actually increases construction cost.

        Example for me:

        I have a typical cabinet shop set up and when a designer spec's a simple set of cabinets I try to accommodate. But sometimes my setup is faster and the savings they are trying for is met by that set up. I don't tell them why there getting a set of better than spec'd cabinets even though my cost usually work out about the same. They just think they got a great deal. For the most part time is my only demon. 

      2. tek | May 03, 2007 08:34pm | #15

        And who is going to pay for your time to redraw it?  This sounds like something that the builder should note on the as-built drawings (if you require them) with a nice cross-reference to the engineer's approval.

    2. Piffin | May 03, 2007 06:53pm | #7

      as a builder there is no way in h3ll I would pay to exceed an engineers design minimum. 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  3. Porsche998 | May 03, 2007 06:31pm | #3

    Get the statement from the engineer in writing and signed by the P.E. that 18" is min.

  4. MJLonigro | May 03, 2007 06:38pm | #4

    As an engineer, I put a note on my drawings stating that I am to be notified prior to making any changes to the plans, specifically structure..

    Typically, I would issue a letter indicating the change. If there are a lot of changes, then I may re-issue the plan..

    My question is why is the footing being increased? Is the builder planning on using a wider footing to support something else, like a brick or stone veneer or something else that might not have been in the original plan/calculations?

    1. Piffin | May 03, 2007 07:00pm | #10

      "My question is why is the footing being increased? "That ran thru my mind.
      The options that I came up with are ease of layout and placement - The original laout does not have to be as precise with a wider and the walls can be laid out better once the footer is in.
      He might be used to using spreaders that are 24" and that is what he has.
      Maybe he does trench footings instead of forming and the bucket on his hoe is 24" wideOr maybe he has done a lot of foundation work and has seen failures in 18" wide and has an instinctive disregard for the narrower footer.BUt if there is a change to add a brick facade like you speculate, then the whole thing needs redrawn and re-engineered, true. Since Jim does domes, I tend to doubt that though.now that I think about the dome factor, I lean towards the layout and trench footer consideration on this as a reason. 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      1. User avater
        CloudHidden | May 03, 2007 07:27pm | #13

        This one's interesting be/c it's an ICF wall with a domed roof. Really neat hybrid with a huge potential--disaster resistance of the other stuff I do with the public acceptability of ICF and vertical walls. We drew plans. Every time HO spoke to a new builder, came back with different requests. We've been chasing our tails to accommodate builder preferences and it's costing $$$. Finally got suspicious when I heard from builder through HO that 18" footers were not permitted by county and that the ICF's could not be modified as we needed for one detail. Assuming the comments were passed on accurately (which is not a given, in a "Whisper down the alley" sense), they didn't ring true. So I called the inspector and the ICF manuf and each had no issue with our original plan.Hmmmm. That means the builder either said something that was not true, or was not quoted accurately, or just wanted a change for personal reasons (convenience, his economy, etc). I'm uninclined to draw new details for any of those reasons. Engineer and I just spoke and are gonna stick with original layout/dimensions, and builder can vary from those as he determines appropriate, but that's on him, and what we're documenting is what we recommend.I'd hate to not seem cooperative with the builder, but there need to be limits to modifying plans....yes? no?

        1. Piffin | May 03, 2007 08:30pm | #14

          Yes. I would do exactly as you are doing this.
          As a builder though, I often exceed drawn specifics from other designers, alwyas with a phone call first and a written note to document but never a problem from the designer.On the AHJ issue others have mentioned, I don't conceive of why....in spite of my high IQ
          ;) 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      2. User avater
        Gene_Davis | May 04, 2007 01:59am | #22

        He is pouring it neat, using a 24" hoe bucket to trench.  That's what it's about.  Apparently the excavator doesn't have an 18-incher.

        Seems like a no brainer to me, but here we've gone over 20 posts worth of discussion.  Cloud Hidden didn't mention the bucket deal upfront, however.  If he had, this would have been a shorter thread.

        1. User avater
          CloudHidden | May 04, 2007 04:50am | #25

          >Cloud Hidden didn't mention the bucket deal upfront, however. If he had, this would have been a shorter thread.You've got one helluva bedside manner. It came up first in a conversation with the inspector 2 minutes before I mentioned it here. The situation evolved in real time as the thread evolved.The point is that we don't know why the builder wants what they want. We're just guessing. We only know what he says as passed on through the HO. Don't know who the builder is. No contract between them yet AFAIK. That one reason I'm not inclined to make changes. We'll design what we think is right. Engineer and I are on the same page as the inspector and the product manufs. As for builder-inspired changes, my name's on the prints if he wants to contact me. I've put a stop to the HO-as-middleman stuff.

          1. ronbudgell | May 09, 2007 03:56am | #38

            Cloud,

            From a practical point of view, when working with ICF's wider is a lot better. Your builder might be one of the many who like to place cleats on the footing to keep the ICF in line. If the 18" footing is as little as 1 1/2' off perfect placement then you have next door to nothing left to fasten a cleat to.

            Your bracing foot sits down there, too and needs about 2 1/2" to rest on.

            What's 1 1/2" in a footing alignment? Not very much of an error and easy to do especially if the plan is tricky to lay out.  Stakes don't drive straight, rocks are in just the wrong places. Poop happens but you can avoid having it happen on your own head with a little foresight.

            Also, this will almost certaily be formed rather than poured into a trench because vertical control is very important to easy ICF installation.

            I'm guessing it has nothing to do with buckets and everything to do with what the builder knows about working with ICF's.

            Ron

          2. User avater
            CloudHidden | May 09, 2007 05:10am | #39

            >Your builder might be one of the many who like to place cleats on the footing to keep the ICF in line.They're using a brand that includes a metal channel for horizontal alignment at the top and bottom, so they shouldn't need additional cleats.>I'm guessing it has nothing to do with buckets and everything to do with what the builder knows about working with ICF's.I'm open to this. If a builder has preferences, I'm happy to try to accommodate. Except the reason passed on to me and the engineer was that the county would not allow 18". That didn't sound right, and turns out to not be right. That makes me more suspicious of other stuff I've been told, which then hasn't checked out. Client's sold on him so that's fine with me. I'm just gonna independently check anything I'm told.

  5. Piffin | May 03, 2007 06:51pm | #6

    I don't see why plans would have to be redrawn for an element to exceed design as long as that element does not affect other elements of the structure. I have never yet seen a footer built to an exat size. the 18" is a minimum

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

  6. vinniegoombatz | May 03, 2007 07:00pm | #9

     

    CYA   sorry, but that's what its about    letter to engineer addressing change, and does depth of footer need increase, or some rebar added, to maintain footer strength due to expanded width??  attach his letter of reply

     

  7. User avater
    JDRHI | May 03, 2007 07:11pm | #11

    Prolly depends on localities.

    Round here it would require an "as built" final drawing.

    Future renovators need to know what to expect. Running a water or gas line in the future may undermine an unexpectedly large footer not shwon on the drawings.

    Wondering if you could charge the builder for the plans change?

    J. D. Reynolds
    Home Improvements

     

     


  8. User avater
    CapnMac | May 03, 2007 07:15pm | #12

    Should plans be redrawn for 24"?

    Yes, if the AHJ insists on it.  Mine would. 

    Or, if the rebar (if used) needs to be located differently (like if it is not specifed to be w/3 or the like; #4 bar @ 6" OC probably ought be changed).

    It's probably a good idea with many footers to make sure the 3" difference does not cause any "weird" spots (like "U" shapes under 12" or so shrinking to less than 6" & the like).  Also, to avoid having "all" the extra 6" going to either the inside or to the outside, or, worst yet, both.  I'm thinking more of an unexpected uh-oh like remembering to "key" the footing, and centering the key way, and that not being the center of the planned wall above.  Sure, it's not supposed to happen; "supposed to" has not prevented problems in real life, though.

    So, "have to?"--maybe not.  "Should?"--Probably. 

    Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
  9. User avater
    draftguy | May 03, 2007 10:40pm | #16

    if it doesn't affect rebar spacing, write a letter documenting the change, and have the homeowner sign off on it

    explain that it's simply a procedure so he doesn't have to pay extra for changing the plans

    and add a note to each affected sheet as an addendum item/revision

    still a pain, kinda/sorta, but you still want to look like you're a professional (if they make changes and you don't document it, it removes you from the relationship and opens the door for more changes down the road . . . some which you might not be made privy to, but could still be held responsible for)

  10. Hiker | May 03, 2007 10:41pm | #17

    The only drawback I could see if the builder upsizes other stuff is how it may affect other systems in the house.  For example-upsizing floor joists may alter stair layout.  Is it too late in the game to meet as a group and review the plans together.  I have found that kind of meeting really makes for a great set of plans.  Knowing what the other guys would like to have makes everyone's job easier and limits the confusion when the plans get implemented.  Coordinating framing with HVAC and plumber always makes for a better product.  Just a thought...

    Bruce

    1. Snort | May 04, 2007 12:08am | #18

      I can't believe the builder would ask to have them redrawn, unless he really believes that they can't be 18". 2' trench footings are the norm here, mainly based on most excavator's bucket size, but also to cover any layout errors. Ok, not any, but most errors<G>. That, and you've got to have at least a 2" projection, more if a facade.If the footings are formed, it's another story. 18" saves a bunch of bucks.Can't see why you would have re-draw, though...tell 'em that part's not to scale? Outside of the gates the trucks were unloadin',

      The weather was hot, a-nearly 90 degrees.

      The man standin' next to me, his head was exploding,

      Well, I was prayin' the pieces wouldn't fall on me.

      1. sapwood | May 04, 2007 12:22am | #20

        24" is 33% greater than 18". Is the builder going to expect 33% more pay for this? But that's not what you asked about. I would think that a notation on the as-built plans would suffice. Be sure also to note any changes in rebar...... there will be changes in rebar..... or maybe the engineer says this isn't necessary. I'd get a note from him regarding that.

        1. User avater
          SamT | May 04, 2007 01:26am | #21

          That footer width change goes on the builders "as-builts.", not on your original plans.

          IMO, the rebar in the footer should be placed as if it were still an 18" footer, and not 6" further apart. If the builder wants the iron 3" from the edges, he should add rebar, not respace the original.

          Unless, of course, somebody is going to pay you and your engineer to redraw, reengineer, and restamp the originals.

          This is real similar to substituting a 4x14 1/2 header for a called out 2x 2x12 header.SamT

          Praise the Corporation, for the Corporations' highest concern is the well being of the public.

          1. BungalowJeff | May 04, 2007 02:59pm | #27

            I agree with SamT on this. Unless you have some open-ended budget to provide As-Builts, which no one gets, the information should be noted as As-Built by the contractor.

            On my jobs, anything that affects the As-Built state has to be okayed through a Field Change Request. This is simply a glorified RFI, but it keeps As-Built changes in one database and the engineer can do a sanity check on the impact (such as the issue with rebar #/spacing). Bucket size and steel availability affect my jobs quite often....that's not a mistake, it's rustic

  11. User avater
    boiler7904 | May 04, 2007 12:19am | #19

    As long as it's engineered (including the soil) to work with 18" wide footings and local AHJ approved the permit using 18" footings, no problem.  No need to revise drawings unless the builder wants to compensate you for your time / printing costs to avoid possible future layout issues later on.

    I 'd just have the builder document the changes in his as-built set of drawings.  He is keeping a set of as-builts right.

     
  12. MisterT | May 04, 2007 02:05am | #23

    Make sure he doesnt think 24" means he can skimp or skip the rebar!!!

    I'd hate to see one of yer Golf balls roll out of bounds

    :0)

    I don't Know what I am doing

    But

    I am VERY good at it!!

  13. Inspector704 | May 04, 2007 04:23am | #24

    Watch your footing thickness.  In North Carolina the projection of the footing beyond the  foundation walls is a minimum of 2" with a maximum projection equal to the footing thickness.  In other words:

    If your footings are 18" wide x 8" thick, then your footing projection could possible range as little as 2" to as much as 8" thus allowing the use of the 24" wide footing without any negative consequences.  These wider footings are easier for the footing man to dig and the masons love them  because they have more room to work in the ditch an well as layout the structure.

    Get an addendum from the engineer accepting the requested change and forget redrawing the plans.  Always get the engineer to approve all changes no matter how small they may seem otherwise build it as designed/drawn

     

    1. Snort | May 04, 2007 05:19am | #26

      Where do you do your inspecting? Just wondering if you've ever turned me down<G> Outside of the gates the trucks were unloadin',

      The weather was hot, a-nearly 90 degrees.

      The man standin' next to me, his head was exploding,

      Well, I was prayin' the pieces wouldn't fall on me.

      1. Inspector704 | May 04, 2007 08:17pm | #28

        Piedmont region in North Carolina

        1. Snort | May 04, 2007 10:25pm | #29

          Can you name the county? Outside of the gates the trucks were unloadin',

          The weather was hot, a-nearly 90 degrees.

          The man standin' next to me, his head was exploding,

          Well, I was prayin' the pieces wouldn't fall on me.

    2. fingersandtoes | May 07, 2007 05:11am | #30

      Our code specifies width to depth ratio too. Lots of builders around here miss this when they increase footing width without adding height and get failed.

      1. Inspector704 | May 07, 2007 08:56pm | #31

        Right on.

        1. User avater
          JDRHI | May 07, 2007 09:01pm | #32

          You forgot, Keep on truckin'.

          J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements

           

           

      2. jrnbj | May 08, 2007 11:03pm | #33

        Any notion what the engineering logic behind that Width to depth ratio is?

        1. User avater
          CapnMac | May 09, 2007 12:45am | #34

          what the engineering logic behind that Width to depth ratio is?

          Has to do--as a guess--with the centroid of the footing, and thus any bending or upsetting moments as a result.

          A footing 36" wide and 6" thick has a longer moment arm to "fail" the concrete in tension, while also having less "space" to get bar into to add tensile strength.  Changing from 36" wide to 24" wide makes a big difference if still 6" deep.  Or making it 36x12"--but in a different sort of way.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

          1. jrnbj | May 09, 2007 01:51am | #35

            Ah, so.......hope yr teeth are better....I'm getting that scare they're offering up in the Tavern ;-)

          2. jrnbj | May 09, 2007 01:52am | #36

            Ooops---- I meant SCAR----'course, they're usually offering up some sort of scare over there as well <G>

        2. fingersandtoes | May 09, 2007 03:12am | #37

          Our code calls for two rows of rebar in the footing, but no requirement for any ties across the width. I think the width to depth ratio is to avoid, say, a 36" wide footing that was only 6" deep. The foundation wall bearing on this is likely to shear the ends of the footing off, and the two rows of rebar won't be much help.

          Edit: Sorry, I replied without reading the thread, and have basically repeated what CapnMac said.

          Edited 5/8/2007 8:15 pm ET by fingersandtoes

          1. User avater
            CapnMac | May 09, 2007 05:24am | #40

            have basically repeated what CapnMac said

            Wouldn't sweat it, 'bout time somebody else was accused of telling the same thing over again (and again and again) <G>Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Mortar for Old Masonry

Old masonry may look tough, but the wrong mortar can destroy it—here's how to choose the right mix for lasting repairs.

Featured Video

How to Install Cable Rail Around Wood-Post Corners

Use these tips to keep cables tight and straight for a professional-looking deck-railing job.

Related Stories

  • Repairing a Modern Window Sash
  • Landscape Lighting Essentials
  • Podcast Episode 694: Bath Fans, Too Many Minisplits, and Second-Story Additions
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Can You Have Too Many Minisplits?

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2025
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data