I am currently drywalling my recroom. I am going with a drywall return window look.
I bought a cutting template for the bullnose bead that goes around the windows at 90 degrees. It works beautifully, and the windows look great.
However I have 2 skylights in the recroom. I simply cannot get the bull nose beads to line up. My template only works for a regular window, and because the skylights are angled, the template does not work.
Is there a product out there, or a trick of the trade to doing this properly?
I have gone through several beads trying different angles, etc. I am frustrated at this point. Is it possible that I am overlooking something? Perhaps something very simple?
Any advice/help would be great!
Thank you
Replies
Can you use a compound miter saw? Set up a little table with a piece of 2x4 to elevate the bullnose, and cut it like a piece of trim.
Do it right, or do it twice.
Using a straight mitre would not work. The bullnose beads are mitred with a weird curve. The template that I have works like a charm but it is strictly for 90 and 130 angles with the beads on the same plane.
I didn't say (or didn't mean to suggest) cutting a stright miter. That's why I suggested a compund miter saw. If you consider the bullnose to be a piece of wood trim, just attack the angle and miter settings that way. Apparently you have a couple of pieces of butchered trim ...that's good, 'cause now you have stuff to 'speriment with to get the angles right.Do it right, or do it twice.
The mitre saw chews the beads to shreds. Good idea though.
Any other suggestions?
ELCID72 has it right. Remember each and every object forms its own templet. Position a piece of the bullnose the way you're going to want it to run and butt it to the corners you're having trouble with. Take another piece and then butt it up to the first piece coming from the other direction. Often this technique will then allow you to visualize how the two pieces have to be cut or mitered to make the corners come out looking good.
A picture or detail from you would work wonders in trying to solve this. I do Raco aluminum work, and metal bead and trim at work, and sometimes there is nothing like actually looking at what you're working on to figure it out.
PS What kind of saw are you using to cut the bull nose?
Good Luck. Don't get frustrated, just keep aproaching it from different angles and sooner or later you'll hit on a solution.
Trying to be helpful in Dallas----------- Cork.
right now I am using yellow aviation snips to cut my beads.
I just thout there was a cutting template available for sky lights just as there is for 90 degree mitres.
i think cork was on the right track with the each item forms its own template thing. what i do is use a scrap piece of the bullnose and cut a corner out of it. i hold it up to check the fit and trim until i am happy with the fit. then i take another scrap and hold it up and take the first piece and hold it on top and draw the line. then cut on the line and try it out. also what i have done on corner windows at the top where 3 pieces of bullnose intersect is to cut a small triangle out of the bullnose and bend it out a little then just cut the 3 pieces square and place them over the triangle piece. if the triangle is just large enough it is imprisoned and the result is satisfactory, remember you are still going to mud, even on the bullnose. also i have been told by drywaller guys who do nothing but drywall that the best technique is to cut back the ends of the bullnose. in other words the bullnose should fit tight at the round part (needs to not have any gaps to hold mud) but the flat part that attaches to drywall should have a space between them, if you cut them to a tight fit you have sharp corners and the sharp corner has a tendency to bend out from the drywall and the mud there is excessively heavy. once you are happy with one method that works use that as a pattern or template for the rest.
We use Dewalt 12" compound mitre saws all day long on bull nose trim. Both plastic and metal trim. We use sharp, double kerf blades, make the cut slow, and support the trim good--snugged up tight against fence or jig, and they come out fine.
But hey-if aviation snips are working good for 90 and 130 corners have at it, I sure would. Sometimes the best solutions are the simpulest.
If your store baught templet is not working for the corners you're trying to apply the trim to, then toss the templet and let me repeat. Each and every object forms its own templet. If you have a little extra trim take a couple of small chunks of it and butt them up against each other in one of the corners that is giving you trouble. Then visualise how they would have to come together to make a nice looking corner. Then start cutting on the piece that you would butt against the other piece. Take your time in doing this and do it slow. It may take a dozen tries to get a good looking corner, but hey that's part of the game and is nothing but a learning curve.
Each time you make a new cut stick your pieces back up into position and see how your new cut came out. KEEP AT IT!! Each time you make a new cut and stick the pieces back together you'll see the form of the fit gets a little better. Just have patience.
We have master craftsmen at work who have been doing this stuff for 20-30 years. Even the suppliers and manufacturers defer to these pros. And in some applications even these top pros have to us this technique. Why?? Because it works. Each and every object does form its own templet.
Toss the store baught doohicky, put a nice cool brewsky on the ladder next to you and lay back and get creative. At this point in the game you've got nothing to loose and at least you'll enjoy the cold brew.
Good Luck--you won't need much--this does work--and enjoy brew!!
Cork in Dallas