I have to put a 70 ft curb in and repair road damaged by job. Does asphalt come the same way as concrete, (not in a mixer), but by the yard? Too late to call asphalt guys.
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Asphalt is sold by the Ton not the yard.
Not DYI friendly job IMO but others may with more hands on experience may well disagree.
Depending on the size of the job it can be delivered several ways.
Medium sized jobs most usual is a dump truck with the hot mix on it and a spreader box for spreading , crew places and tamps.
Smaller jobs sometimes delivered in a small trailer around here, even have seen pick up loads .
Really small jobs can also be done with "Cold Patch " but I don't know enough to say if that would work for a municipal road surface.
it's going to be really small, maybe 2" by 6" by 70 ft. I think that's small?:)
You can't cut a neat line and fill that small section with concrete? Make it part of the "gutter" and curb?
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
no gutters, I thought I might cut the asphalt and form to top and concrete would fill right up to edge of asphalt. As I dug today, it seems the road is two layers, with the top layer not as wide as the bottom. I did a footing concrete calculator for the asphalt, it turned out .22 yards. I'll have to see what the "patch" bags at HD cover.
I can't put the front edge of the curb out further into road, surveyors drove nails and I need to be 4 feet to front edge of curb from nails.
Once you get your concrete in you may be able to fill voids with crushed rock or gravel until you can get a crew in and complete the job.
Asphalt is not a DIY job, contact your local municipality and coordinate repair with them as they often times have other patch jobs in mind.
Asphalt is sold by the ton as stated by previous posters. I am not sure what to expect for a price as I have been out of the loop from road construction since the early 90's.
How deep is the void....I am guessing 4-6 inches. I am imagining that it is not a square hole but rather one with jagged edges that are not even. If that is the case then I would advise measuring from the curb to the furthest point and then measure for length.
here is a link for finding the tonage needed: http://www.pikeindustries.com/prodserv_main.htm#PAVE
Good luck
Ebe
I have patched the shoulder of my driveway and used hot asphalt picked up at the local plant, shoveled it in, raked it smooth and compacted it with a vibraplate.
The results are adequate for function but the aesthetics vary from ok to embarrassing. I did get better after placing the first couple of tons. I can't imagine doing any asphalt patching without a vibraplate or some other kind of mechanical compactor.
If appearances are at all an issue I would sub it out.
Karl
ps, you have to have a means of keeping the asphalt from cooling too fast in transit, especially with small loads. I used a tarp with an old king size bedspread over it. I could only work a ton and a half with two of us spreading it before it started getting too cold.
Edited 5/2/2008 12:37 am ET by karl
If doc is going to be doing as small a patch as he describes they have hand tamper that actually might work better. Nothing more than a 1' sq. (approximatly ) steel plate with an upright heavy wooden handle. Repeatedly pick it up & slam it down to compact the asphalt.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Doc, contact you local municipality regarding their requirements for doing this type of repair. Otherwise if you choose to do it yourself and it doesn't meet their standards you maybe required to tear it out and redo it. Or have a small asphalt company do it for you. They should know the requirements.
Why I advise this, is that there is more than just laying in the asphalt and compacting it. For instance, they should require that all vertical surfaces of the cut be painted with liquid asphalt prior to placement of the patch asphalt mix, as well as painting the joints after compaction.
Besides, cleaning asphalt off your shoes is a pain, and your clothes, toss them out if you get asphalt on them.
Hope that helps
Impossible is an opinion.
Just got a bid of $75 per ton installed (prep etc) if that helps. 45 miles no. of NYC. When I have used the "bags" I break out my torch the one used for melt down roofs such as Dibiten. I get the stuff hotter than if it came from a plant. One man on the torch the other man tamping. Works great. You can get the torch for about $40 at roofing supply houses.
I would check with the AHJ before doing anything. Locally we would have to cut it so that the patch is at least 2' wide so that a plate compactor could run nicely down it. We would also have to make sure the joint wasn't in a wheel path, and typically because of that requirement have to do whole or half lane patches. Square saw-cut edges are also required here, and you would need tack under the patch and on all of the joints, and would need an IR patch, but locally they are stricter than most. Paving is a relatively simple job, but is fairly specialized. Cold patch will not give a result I would ever put my name on.
As others have mentioned it is typically sold by the ton. Typically it weighs 130 lb/cf or 3,510 lbs/cy. Prices vary widely both based on location and type of work. I can get $85/ton in place for bigger jobs (500+tons), and even better for 2,000+ tons, but a small IR patch could cost upwards of $300/ton.
Rob
Edited 5/2/2008 9:37 am by robinpillars
why not get some pavers (interlock) and have at it with those.
got to meet the town requirements, concrete curb, asphalt raod. nothing else allowed.
You think your getting out of here that easy how did you dammage road, back 20+ years ago when still farming hose broke on 24ft disc with four ft wings tipped up and it dropped on asphalt that was putt down about a wek earlier.
I didn't damage the road. The asphalt just sort of ends, I have to put concrete curb in, and given the surveyors marks to front of curb, there will be some gap between road and curb. That's what I have to fill.
If that's the case I'd talk to your surveyor. I deal with that situation quite a bit, and by far the easiest way to deal with it is to saw-cut a clean straight line on the pavement and cut it back then pour the curb up to the asphalt using it as the form.<!----><!----><!---->
Rob
I'll have a look at the other curbs that have gone in lately. Maybe they have a sort of minigutter, bringing base of curb and asphalt together. Seems like it would work. So long as BI is OK with it.
update:Poured the curb yesterday, me and two guys , both who did it in the past but were not in the business. Turned out good, we stripped the face form relatively soon, it was around 70 degrees with the sun on it. Class B mix, which the concrete guy says sets up pretty fast. Got a quote of $1500 for the asphalt, I thought it high, not even half a ton. I plan on doing cold patch and if it fails I will redo in the future with an asphalt contractor. My question, if I rent a compactor for tomorrow, do you think it will upset the concrete, green, poured yesterday?
I did an asphalt repair that I'm thinking was almost identical to what you are talking about. I had a ~40' section of city curb replaced. If the concrete guys had of been careful when they removed the old curb I think damage to the asphalt could have been avoided. Notice I said "if". I did get the concrete guys to cut a strait edge out of the asphalt with their concrete cut-off saw instead of the ragged busted up edge they initially left. That left me with an approximately 6"x40' strip to fix. I used cold patch. First I cleaned out the area as best I could - to a depth of around 2". Then I shoveled in the cold patch and tamped it with a plate compactor. That was in 2005 and it is still in place and functioning. Not pretty, but it held up. I did notice that it seemed to shrink a bit so overfilling might not be a bad thing.
Regarding your other Q - I think if you let the compactor touch that green concrete you will definitely tear it up. You need to wait a week - and even then don't let the compactor touch it.
Edited 5/15/2008 5:43 am ET by Matt
I haven't rented one in a long time. I wonder if I might be better off just laying a 2x12 on top and driving over it with my Truck.
If you're talking about a vibrating plate compactor, I'd be real careful to stay away from the fresh concrete. Otherwise your next job will be repairing the curb. Maybe the better idea would be to lay a 2X4 on edge, against the curb, to protect it from the compactor. Then lay the 2X4 down flat over that area, and run over it with your truck to compact that last couple of inches next to the curb.
I'd say skip the 2x12 and just run over it with your truck. Fill in a little more as needed. I've done that too. You miss the vibration of the plate compactor but your truck probably has very roughly 2000 PSF on each tire footprint.
BTW - on the way home tonight I went by and looked at the cold patch I did a few years ago and referred to above - still looks about like when I did it - so much for aesthetics - but it's still there... OK - so I'm not an asphalt connoisseur... ;-) Besides, I'm kinda of the opinion of what is in the street is the municipalities responsibility.
Besides, I'm kinda of the opinion of what is in the street is the municipalities responsibility.I hear that!Called the asphalt plant, they won't load a pickup, mason's dump is minimum. 60 bucks a ton , so 3 tons would be 180. truck rental another 180. 360 plus tax. cold patch would be at least 35 bags at 9 bucks a bag at HD. 315 plus tax. seems like the asphalt is probably the way to go, although more time consuming with truck cleaning, return etc. I have to talk to roads dept, they just repaved road 10 blocks from me, and there's painted numbers on my street, something that wasn't there a week ago. Maybe I'll luck out and there doing my road as well.
Might even get the crew to drop by and handle the patch for ya even if they aren't paving the whole road if you sweet talk them.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
I was at the yard today, met the head honcho. He threw some phone numbers at me, hoping someone was doing work on the island, no luck. But, he did try, so he's at least willing to help. I'll talk to him, see where it goes.
>> Called the asphalt plant, they won't load a pickup, mason's dump is minimum. 60 bucks a ton , so 3 tons would be 180. truck rental another 180. 360 plus tax. <<
did you ask the tons per yard?
3 tons... that sounds like a lot of material... I'm gonna make a wild guesstimate at 2 tons per yard. So 3 tons would be 1.5 yards...
>> cold patch would be at least 35 bags at 9 bucks a bag at HD. << That sounds like a lot of material too. How big did you say the hole is? I'm gonna make a wild guess at 1/2 CF per bag: 35 bgs = 17.3 cf.... = 1/2 yard
There's a deficit there... or maybe you are saying you only need 1/2 cu yd? Still sounds like alot...
Matt, don't know how much you know, I know nothing. So I went to an asphalt calculator, 70 ft by 1 1/2 ft by 4 inches deep is 2.65 tons, about 1.3 yards. went over because I plan on cutting a straight line as you mentioned in youe earlier post.
dockelly
Go with the hot mix. It will turn out better than the cold mix.
I would recommend waiting at least a week for the concrete to strengthen further before you try to patch with asphalt.
When you get ready to patch your hole, run a couple of 1/2" - 1" boards on each side of the hole as screed boards. You will need to experiment with the thickness of the screed boards to get the correct height of uncompacted asphalt concrete. Fill in your trench with the asphalt concrete to the top of the screed boards and screed. Use these boards as a running screed so that you have a consistent level course of uncompacted asphalt concrete along the length of your trench. When you run the compactor over it, the asphalt concrete will compact down to match the curb and street grade. Run the compactor side to side initially. Otherwise you will have an asphalt wave running ahead of the compactor plate.
You should also paint the vertical surfaces with liquid asphalt to bond with the asphalt concrete. Also follow up with liquid asphalt along the patch seams.
To help with clean up, spray your equipment with a light coating of diesel before they come in contact with the asphalt concrete.
Impossible is an opinion.
OH - I didn't know the hole was that big... I got the 70' long part but I was picturing something maybe 6"x2" deep. Did you state the size before? Sorry I missed it.... Asphalt on city streets isn't normally 4" thick... as far as I know anyway.
Sounds like the hot mix might be your best bet... That's a full sized road patch.... Not just a little something at the edge... Or really hiring someone with a roller and the whole bit would be the way to go...