Okay, I am still thinking about this blasted roof. My bro’s said they’d cough up the money, but want to know how much. I figured 13 squares.
Really good shingles with good felt and W&I (Grace, not generic) gets me up to between $1600 and $2500 for materials, depending on whether I go with good quality 3-tabs or really good quality “architectural” made by Owen’s Corning. But metal remains a mystery.
Guy at Lowe’s told me 201 per foot from eve to ridge times number of 3′ panels (divide eve by 3). I assume that was $2.01 and that gave me something like $1100, but then I need valley flashing and ridge and so on. And, I have no idea the quality of the metal roof–is this just painted agricultural roofing, Galvalume, what?
I’d really like the cost per 14′ long by 3′ wide G-125 panel coated with Kynar and the cost of same in aluminum. Also like to know cost of aluminum shakes per square.
If anyone could tell me those three things, I’d be grateful!
Replies
I have no idea the quality of the metal roof--is this just painted agricultural roofing, Galvalume, what?
Why didn't you ask the guy at Lowe's? It's probably not kynar at that price, but there's no way anybody here can tell you what it actually is.
Hey YOU! Get back to FUN and Football! Hope yer enjoying both.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
I'm sittin' in the hotel bar where the internet access is and watching the game with another couple from KY and the hotel manager (who's originally from KY).
Me too!
Oh, wait..no I'm not.
I hated that last TD.
Have fun.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Yeah, I'll have to go back and talk to them in person Monday. I did find out one brand of good aluminum shingles had their price on their web site as $200 per square. That, while highish, is not bad compared to high-end asphalt (40 and 50-year shingles) and would undoubtedly last longer than asphalt. (At $30 a bundle and the high-end asphalt shingles needing five bundles per square, they get pretty pricey!)
Take a look at Decra Shingle.....I put about 40 sq. on my house....ran about $140 per sq. 4 years ago....that was turnkey...shingles, edging, trim, caps, touchup kits, stainless screws, tax, delivery.....and video to show how easy it is to install.
It takes a bit of time to put all the trim and starter stuff up but then the shingles go down as fast as you can snap'em together and screw'em down....best I can remember only takes 15 panels to make a square.
Each panel is about 4 shingles of coverage......looks like 3 rows and is longer. Use a Diablo 40 tooth blade, protect yourself from shrapnel and noise and cut away. Did my whole roof, porch and a shed on 1 blade.
White chalk is a good way to mark your cuts and run your screws at 45 degrees to the decking. The screws get additional bite at an angle and it cinches up the panel real snug.
http://www.decrashingle.com/
http://www.decrashingle.com/residential.html
http://www.decrashingle.com/shingle-color.htm
Pedro - best built mule sheds around
Thanks for the links. I submitted a request for info from them. Looks good.
I forgot to ask yesterday--how slippery are those shingles? Our roof is fairly steep--I can walk without too much trouble on the asphalt shingles, but wonder about metal.
if your steep you will have fun wih metal,it's just like a slipper slide except the drop at the end is a little higher! once i get past about a 4/12 it gets to where you need to be paying attention to staying on the roof.
i like metal,last a long time ,goes up easily,looks good,but the trim and assecories can cost as much as the metal sheets. larryif a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
How slippery?.....Decra Shingles.....hardly a problem.....they have crushed ceramic granules epoxied and heat processed onto the metal substructure.
We ended up with them because we wanted the benefits of a metal roof, wind resistance to 120 mph, heat refectivity to 89%, durability beyond my lifespan.
Our covenants prohibited metal roofing....old covenants...didn't want some rusty tin showing up on houses in this equestrian neighborhood. Architechture committee approved these since it wasn't exposed metal.
The well adheared coating provides a far superior shoe grip as compared to standard asphalt shingles. My house is a little shy of being 6/12 and I never once had a problem with slipping.
I would say the two biggest problems is doing your best to stay off the seams when walking around on it, the other is "if" you loose your footing you're going to have some road rash but probably won't slide off the roof. Those granules are so well adhered you shouldn't have it give way like asphalt/fiberglass and as a result if you do slip it's gonna stay while you slide across it.
I used a harness attached to a safety breakaway in turn attached to a rope going over the ridge and tied off properly. Once you get used to one of these it comes in handy. I found myself using the rope as a way to quickly pivot myself back and forth across the roof. The little bit it slowed me down working around it was easily made up in speed of moving side to side.
Pedro an aging old Mule
Thanks for the reply. We won't be going up there much--maybe to sweep off leave and pine needles, though I think I'll be cutting nearby trees. Sort of a catch-22; want it slippery for leaves and snow not to accumulate, but not so slippery that I can't walk up there! That was why I was thinking about open valleys if I were to use asphalt. Right now that's where the leaves pile up, and where we have the leak.
Hopefully the packet you ordered from Decra will have the video which shows you how their valley setups work.
I don't know of anything that beats the peal and stick sheet membrane from Grace products. If anything gets under your metal roofing, that stuff will channel it out the weep holes at the drip edge rather than letting it leak. Stuffs not cheap but is well worth it. It's about like working with fly paper on a windy day though...get it on wrong and you might as well cut another piece.
Treat it like you would a formica countertop.....lay it where you want it....fold one side over while keeping the other side in place....remove the backing on the folded side....stick it down....fold the remaining side over....remove backing....stick it down and your done.
Pedro - don't like sticky Mule feet
I'm familiar with the water & ice shield--we used it all the time when I was a framer--we did many roofs as well as framinhg. I know what you mean about if it flaps sticky side against sticky side! Cut that part out and start over! We often roofed in very cold weather and found that under those conditions you could pull the paper backing off, roll the stuff up, carry it up to the roof and lay it out and it would not stick to itself (or the roof very well either).
We had two methods in warm weather--pull the backing off a foot or so and nail that end, then roll it out while pulling the backing sheet out as we went and nailing it, or nail the top all the way along and pull/slide the backer sheet out from under it. I don't remember if we pulled the backer away at the top for the nails first or exactly what we did. The method depended somewhat on whether the backer was split horizontally or not.
Yeah it is expensive--the Grace brand being about half again the price of Owens Corning or GAF, but I'm thinking there must be a reason and that the Grace brand is better. Was going to put it at eves and in valleys, and toyed with idea of doing whole roof, even if using asphalt shingles, but will seriously consider it under metal for the whole roof. I'm getting too old to want to do this again in ten or twenty years! After that I'll be too old to care--let someone else worry about it.
Doing the entire roof in ice and rain shield...wow that would sure handle it all...then simply use the roofing to protect the shield from sun, branches and hail.
From a combination of durability and cost, I'd use the shield at the valleys and eves and 30 lb. felt the rest....Decra requires 30 lb under their product.....can't wait for you to see their materials package.....I think you'll like the way this system goes together.
I'm watching for lumber to take another economic hit and gonna pick pick up enough to build a 28 x 36 barn/workshop. I like the Decra roofing so much, I'm gonna use it there too. I like the idea of never having to go up on the roof again....ever.....
Pedro - an old barn mule
Danno,
I am doing a free project now with 29 ga. galvalume. Cost $50 a square. 26 ga. isn't much more.
Go to a lumber yard that can supply from Metal Sales, Union Corrugating, or SouthEast Metals. Or similar. Price should be close.
KK
Thanks for the reply. Doesn't Galvalume need periodic painting?
No painting, mill finish.KK