spent yesterday and today hang’n my wall cabinets in the first unit to get em…
i’m really like’n my cabinets… and i like have’n a full inventory to pick and choose to make it look “custom” with an almost 12ft ceiling height (11ft 8″) and a sink on the wall and the stove on the island… i went with 36″ uppers the first upper to the far left i had to kick out (bring forward about 2.25″) a 24″ wide double door upper… then the next 69″ run then 43″ above the sink kicked out 4.25″ so i could get 2 small (3″) stainless recessed lights in to wash the backsplash and light the sink area… these were also raised 7″…. then the next 12″ wall that dropped back down and back on plane… then the refrigerator… then the pantry closet…. that gives me 43 inches wide and 25″ tall above the 36″ sinkbase… the other wall units are 18″ above the countertop… the 36″ sinkbase will be steped out 3″ from the other base cabinets all of which will be out an extra 1.5″ just for a deeper counter…
what i went round and round with is… how far above the sink should the bottom of the cabinets be that are above it… i went 3.5″ wider on each side of the centerline of the sink base… ie 43″ wide upper run above a 36″ sink base… i’m good with the 7″ rise above the top line of the wall units… I’ll use a 5″ crown around it and make it a “focal point” but anything higher would have looked out of scale… i could have used 30″ uppers and got more room between the sink and the uppers… but then that looked too much space…. i would have liked maybe 3″ more but i didn’t want a 10″ rise at the top…
just curious if there is a standard for this?
so far so good i guess… i like the cabinets… they are knock down honey glased maple with a bit of black in the deep glased spots… raised panel with a raised trim face frame euro hinges and self close drawers… average build time for the uppers is about 7 min… everything is T&G and nice hardware… no glue required but i’m glue’n everything (liquid nails) started with wood glue but the LN is so much faster and cleaner and i’m shoot’n in a few brads here & there… the base units with drawers take about 20 min… about 3hrs total build time about 15ft of base and 12ft of wall (15ft of wall if i put the wine rack unit above the frig…) i have about 6-7 hrs in the wall install… but it’s pretty goofy on this unit… i’ll do the bases on monday…
p:)
Replies
No "standard" , I think it's as much a matter of what's "in" as anything else. We've done all kinds of designs and I'd say about 45% of the time folks want them pushed all the way up, same amount of folks want them what I find uncomfortably low for ease of reach and the remainder in between including a few that stagger them a bit.
If it woiks for you, that's all the counts.
PaulB
http://www.makeabettertomorrow.com
no standards.
the only "typical" is the 18" from CT to cabs ...
once U start raising and lowering it's all about what functions best and looks good.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Jeff,
Correct as usual. One caveat: allow for under-cabinet lighting and trim. Typically, this adds about 2 inches, so I set the upper cabs at 20"s above the counter top to get the 18" clearance between countertop and lighting skirt.
skipj
not a bad idea.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Well, against a blank wall, I prefer somethign between 24" and 30" above the counter top. Generally, you need some xtra clearance so as to not bang your head leaning in to the back of the sink. Every bit extra helps whem it comes time to change the faucet out, or to change the sink.
If there are other "raised up" cabinets (like over ranges), it can be handy to match the height change.
If the ceiling height is no issue, I kind of like using the same height of cabinet, and just installing it higher on the wall (over the range, too). Helps visually set off "task" areas in the kitchen, too (which often wind up in highlighted areas from task lighting).
But, that is just personal preference.