Replies

1. 
   mark_cadioli | Dec 15, 2000 11:27pm | #1

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   Scuff and use mastic. ( but don't expect a tile counter to be as easy to keep clean as a laminate top)

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   Frank_"Mad_Dog"_Maglin | Dec 16, 2000 02:21pm | #2

   *Though my job is building and installing cabinetry, I often get requests where people want just a new tile countertop over existing plam and some of the tile setters ask me to mill up some hardwood drop edge to band the tile countertop with. Usually their procedure is to apply Duroc board on top of the plam top with construction adhesive and screws. They then add the thin set and tile, then grout. I then apply the wood edge.This procedure is quite cost effective as it does not require having to remove the old counter deck or plam.

1. 
   Jim_Malone | Dec 19, 2000 10:11am | #3

   *David,Franks solution would work well. Tile backer board comes in 1/4" thickness which means would only raise counter level up 1/2" with 1/4" tile. This solves the edge treatment problem. 2 1/2" x 3/4" oak and often other hardwoods is usually available at the chain building material stores in 8' length and often longer. This can be glued and finish nailed thru the lam into particle board substrate. The key here is to predrill holes at least thru the hardwood unless you are fortunate enough to have a decent pneumatic brad nailer and some 1 1/4 or longer brads. Mitered corners can be rounded a bit with a belt sander if desired. Get the height right before starting to glue or nail and use some sort of a gage to maintain it along the entire counter top. If you have a router, now is a good time to rout a bevel, cove or other detail on the top outer edge. Make sure that the extra 1/2" overhang on the bottom won't interfer with future dishwasher removal. Unlike a lousy tile job, they may not last 5 years.Now put on a stain (Minwax Golden Oak will always work, if not sure) and a couple coats of polyurethane varnish. Don't space out this step since the portland base in thinset and grout will stain that oak an ugly gray if it is able to penetrate the wood gain.Tile away using thinset after attatching the cement board like Frank described. A job such as this will probably last longer than you could want if you paint the edges of the sink cutout. This area often gets moisture since sinks don't tend to seal as well on tile as they will of a even flat surface. Shoot the inside of the cutout with a squirt gun full of water. If the water runs off and drips down to the cabinet floor put the sink in. If some of the water seems to soak into the particle board, blob some more paint there. Who knows you could buy another 5 years in 5 minutes. A couple of other thoughts:First Tiling those edges over the laminate could be a problem. That expensive chemical mastic that you use will break down with exposure to water and with only 1 1/2" of bonding surface as it is your liable to loose some edge tiles before your 5 years are up.Second: getting a decent tile job on a countertop isn't total cake especially on a "u" shaped one where perhaps only on side will have a backsplash. Once the grid is established it should continue thru the entire top with equal grout joints. Sliver tiles on any outside edge, in front of or on either side of the sink or range should be avoided if at all possible. Often the addition of an extra piece of 3/4" pine on some edge can help head off a problem in another section of counter 10' or more away. Using the hardwood edge method doesn't have to lock you into the exact size of the existing formica counter.Good Building,Jim Malone

1. 
   Jim_Lovatt | Dec 19, 2000 08:28pm | #4

   *David, here is an online Fine Homebuilding article that you will be interested in... I'd use 1/4" hardibacker instead of the durock, I think it performs as well but is cleaner and easier to work with.Tiling over a formica counter

2. 
   David_Larsen | Dec 19, 2000 08:29pm | #5

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   I want to tile an existing countertop on the cheap. I'm not looking for it to last forever, 5 years would be nice.

   I don't want to remove the plastic laminate, because I can use it as a moisture barrier. Can I just scuff it up with a belt sander and use thinset?