I’m in the middle of a major remodel/update of our first house. I’m doing almost all the work myself considering budget is an issue. I’m definitely no pro but I’m smart and handy. I’m trying to find information on casing (trim work)a casement window. Specifically the attaching and placement of the stool. Any information I’ve found always uses a double hung or single hung as an example which doesn’t seem to work because of the casement handles. It seems as if I can attach the stool under the current inside sill. Is this correct? Or do I make elaborate cut-outs around the handle cranks and inside sashes (It’s a 3 unit window) and put the stool on top of the sill like in a double hung? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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The sill just butts against the window jamb on a casement. It doesn't lip over like an old style double hung. Some manufacturers, Andersen, have trim pieces that come with the window. You have to bring the sill up against that trim piece. Andersen also has a shorter crank handle for trim that uses a sill. On other brands, you may need to make the reveal as low as possible to allow the crank to turn. You can tuck a quarter round or other trim piece where the sill meets the window, to cover a large looking reveal.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks. Makes total sense. I Kind of thought that might be the move.I also have enough room underneath the current sill to attach the stool there and use the trim/sill as a larger reveal. I did a mock-up and looked pretty good. A sort of step down effect. The crank handle isn't a prob either way. Thanks again.
On casements, any jamb extension or sill extension is applied to the inside edge of the window jamb with - typically - a 1/4" reveal all around. This should leave more than enough room to swing the crank.
In old work, there is no difference between installing a stool on a casement or a double hung window. In either case, the stool sits on top of the sloped sill. Very often, the stool is rabbeted at an angle to match that of the sill.
Of course, modern windows (which it sounds like you're using) are built in a variety of ways, so it's hard to know exactly what you're up against.
If it's just a clearance issue, you can rabbet the stool. I've sometimes had to take a heavy rabbet, (leaving only 3/8" or so from the original 1") to provide enough clearance. (Note also that you probably won't need to angle the rabbet when working with modern windows.)
Many times with modern windows, it's easiest to just butt a "simulated" stool up to the window frame. I've sometimes used a biscuit joiner to attach the "stool" to the frame to get an acceptable mechanical connection.
In my house [upstairs] I applied the window sill, but put a 1x3 under it for extra support. ... Then I saw some pictures where there is no window sill, just 45'd miters. I liked that better; that's what I will do downstairs.
Regards,
Roger
Diagram showing window trim terminology (stool vs sill). Note how stool is rabbeted to accept sloped shoulder of sill. Although this rabbet is usually not necessary with modern windows, it will sometimes help if the objective is to keep the stool elevation low.
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Edited 2/11/2008 2:12 pm ET by Ragnar17
I've found the cleanest way to attach the sill and any deep extension jambs (if that applies here) is with pocket screws. You can buy a Kreg jig pretty cheap and all the fasteners will be hidden.
John