FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

cast iron drain question

rick12 | Posted in General Discussion on February 14, 2007 01:25am

Hi all. I’m in the middle of  bathroom remodel in my 50 yo home. Regarding my sink drain, I would like to replace a 2′ section of   2 1/4″ steel  drain pipe that appears to be threaded into my cast iron stack/vent (at sanitary tee?)and replace it with pvc. I say “appears” because I can see the threads on the pipe going into the cast iron stack but I never before heard of threads in a cast iron stack. I don’t want to attempt to turn this pipe(and break the cast iron) if the threaded end  of the steel pipe is welded/glued/soldered into the cast iron stack. Is it likely that this steel drain pipe is simply threaded into my cast iron stack? Thanks for all opinions.

 

Reply

Replies

  1. BigBill | Feb 14, 2007 01:39am | #1

    Yes, it is threaded into the cast iron.  It is also rusted tight and so fused together that it might as well be welded.  I think that your best bet is to cut it leaving enough to use a rubber coupling to make the connection.

    1. rick12 | Feb 14, 2007 05:03am | #3

      It appears that something (pink pipe dope?) was applied to the threads when it was threaded in because I can see this dried out material somewhat caked around the threaded joint. Would this mean that it is more likely that it can be threaded out, or do you still think that it is rusted and fused together? Also, is it that easy to break the cast iron by putting a lot of torque on the steel pipe using a large pipe wrench?

      1. BigBill | Feb 14, 2007 07:18pm | #4

        I doubt that the cast iron will break if you try to unscrew the steel.  More likely is that the steel will crush from the wrench or break at the joint.  If it breaks you may have to cut out and replace the cast iron.  Much simpler to cut the steel to a stub that you can use a coupling to mate with your new pipe.

  2. User avater
    dryhter | Feb 14, 2007 02:18am | #2

    Hey Rick,

    A picture would help a lot, but....the steel pipe is either leaded into the hub of a fitting or threaded into a fitting leaded into a hub or a MaGiver Connection was used,regardless remove  the pipe .

    First try a good size pipe wrench 18 in. min. probably a 24 in, with a cheater .

    If that does not work geta sawsall and cut off the pipe close to the hub of the fitting[1 in +-] drill out the lead and packing remove pipe and packing clean out hub.

    If inside of pipe looks clean when cutting get a rubber coupling with a stainless collar and just connect.

    good luck

    dave

     

  3. plumbbill | Feb 14, 2007 08:04pm | #5

    How big is the stack?

    Is the vertical stack pipe galvanized or black cast iron.

    You probably have one of two possibilities.

    One, is a galvanized threaded pipe that is screwed into a durham fitting, or you have a galvanized pipe that is caulked into a hub & spigot system.

    "The nearest thing to eternal life we will ever see on this earth is a government program." - Ronald Reagan

    1. rick12 | Feb 14, 2007 11:57pm | #6

      The verticle stack is cast iron. It is not black so I guess it is not black cast iron. Where the threaded steel/iron pipe connects to the stack there is a sanitary tee connected to the stack via hub and spigot. Is it possible that the cast iron sanitary tee is hub and spigot for the vertical and threaded on the horizontal incoming hole?

      1. plumbbill | Feb 15, 2007 04:24am | #7

         Is it possible that the cast iron sanitary tee is hub and spigot for the vertical and threaded on the horizontal incoming hole?

        Possible, but unlikely.

        You say the stack is cast iron, but not black? I can't think of any cast iron that would not be black.

        If the hub of the side inlet on the san tee is threaded it will be tight to the pipe.

        Take a wire brush to the joint or an awl & pick at it. If it's lead, you should be able to score it or get down below the surface & expose some shiny lead.

        If it's lead I would cut off the pipe with a sawzall about 2" away from the hub & use a no-hub couplng to transition to plastic.

        You can do the same if it's threaded, & not worry about what type of joint it is."The nearest thing to eternal life we will ever see on this earth is a government program." - Ronald Reagan

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Behind the Scenes of a Concrete Batch Plant

The batch plant is your partner in getting high-quality concrete on your job site.

Featured Video

How to Install Exterior Window Trim

Learn how to measure, cut, and build window casing made of cellular PVC, solid wood, poly-ash boards, or any common molding material. Plus, get tips for a clean and solid installation.

Related Stories

  • Podcast 549: Energy Upgrades, Chimney Inspections, and Questions About a Home You Might Buy
  • Podcast 549: Members-only Aftershow—Patios vs. Decks
  • Podcast 548: PRO TALK With Design/Build Operations Manager Jessica Bishop-Smyser
  • Strategies for Venting a Roof Valley

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

BOOKS, DVDs, & MERCH

Shop the Store
  • Code Check Building 4th Edition
    Buy Now
  • 2022 Fine Homebuilding Archive
    Buy Now
  • 2023 Tool Guide
    Buy Now
  • Pretty Good House
    Buy Now
  • Shop the Store

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 314 - April/May 2023
    • 7 Options for Countertops
    • Tool Test: Wood-Boring Bits
    • Critical Details for Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 313 - Feb/March 2023
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
    • Fine Homebuilding Issue #313 Online Highlights
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
  • Issue 312 - Dec 2022/Jan 2023
    • Tool Test: Cordless Tablesaws
    • Gray-Water System for a Sustainable Home
    • Insulate a Cape Roof to Avoid Ice Dams
  • Issue 311 - November 2022
    • 7 Steps to a Perfect Exterior Paint Job
    • Options for Smarter Home-Energy Tracking
    • The Fine Homebuilding Interview: James Metoyer
  • Issue 310 - October 2022
    • Choosing a Tile-Leveling System
    • Choosing Between HRVs and ERVs
    • Custom Built-in Cabinets Made Easy

Fine Homebuilding

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences

Taunton Network

  • Green Building Advisor
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Fine Gardening
  • Threads
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Copyright
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2023 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Shop the Store

  • Books
  • DVDs
  • Taunton Workshops

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in