Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 07, 2000 05:18am | #1

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   Sounds like a reverse board and batt. I'd start with a plywood substrate (5/8" min.) and cover that with 15# felt. Then run the 1x2 or 1x4 battens in pattern. Between them I'd put another layer of 3/4" plywood substrate and then nail the 1x10 boards to that. Or I guess you could use a cedar plywood substrate and then nail the 1x10's to that in pattern. You'd get the same effect.

   Sounds expensive.

   Ed. Williams

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 07, 2000 06:26am | #2

   *Bill, It is a reverse board and batten siding pattern and in some areas and times past quite popular. I think you will find that you will need horizontal blocking along the entire wall at 16"OC which will provide your nailing pattern. 2x4 would be ideal, but I often use 1x4 ribbons either let into the stud framing as it is on the deck or nailed to the sheathing if an after thought. Do not rely on the 1/2 sheathing to hold your nails. Either way the blocking/ribbon is nailed to the studs and the 1x2 (usually the reversed batten) is nailed to that using galvanized 8d. Then the boards are nailed again using 8d. I try to keep my nailing at 1" from the edge and angle towards the joint. I also like using ring or screw shank nails. There are two approachs to the bottom and top closure. One would be to run 1x2 batten stock between the verticals keeping everything tight. This would provide closure for bugs entering. The second idea is to run screening at the bottom ends and at the top to allow ventilation behind the siding. This will help in prolonging the life of the siding, but usually there is enough air flow even with batten stock at top and bottom.As an aside, if this is new construction and the walls are not framed, try using the 1x4 ribbons, let-in and eliminate the sheathing. Using let-in braces for shear and the let-in ribbons make the sheathing unnecessary. Run your building felt or whatever building paper you choose over the wall, allowing for good overlap and side over that directly.Just some thoughts. walk good david

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 07, 2000 02:25pm | #3

   *Hi Bill. I'm currently developing an article about housewrap failure with a sidebar written by Joe Lstiburek. Joe is a well-known building scientist. The short story is that any housewrap exposed to surfactants, which include tannins and detergents, will lose its water repellency. Tannins leach from woods such as cedar, redwood and douglas fir. Backpriming can reduce tannin bleed, but watch out; latex paint contains surfactants. Also, caustic soda, which also degrades housewraps, is used in the manufacture of OSB. Don't use detergents to pressure wash your vinyl siding. Tyvek, BTW, fared the best of the houswraps in tests conducted at UMASS by Paul Fisette. His conclusion? Use at least #15 felt.Andy Engel

2. 
   Mike_H | Jun 07, 2000 03:21pm | #4

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   It sounds to me like the architect is specifying board-on-board.

   I owned a house with 10" cedar board-on-board siding. It lacked what you suggested - spacers to nail the proud boards to. Sounds like a great idea to avoid nailing the recessed boards to the proud boards.

   Many of my boards split, probably because the nails holding the proud boards went through the recessed boards, not allowing them to expand and contract independent of the adjacent board.

   Good luck.

3. 
   Guest_ | Jun 08, 2000 03:37am | #5

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   Bill

   You asked for a nailing schedule, and well you might. The
   i ideal
   pattern for board and batten (not what you are describing) is to nail only one side of each board to allow for movevment, and nail each batten through the middle, clamping the two sides of the board. This isn't practical with boards over 8" because of inevitable cupping but double nailing often leads to splitting beacuse of shrinkage.

   Board on board needs special nailing. The boards that lie against the wall should be nailed only once through the middle. Overlapping boards are nailed near each edge, but not through the edge of the board underneath.Overlap 1.5" on each side. No blocking, or packing is necessary underneath the overlapping boards. Orient each board so the it cups out (towards you) in the middle.

   Given todays lumber board on board really shouldn't be used on 1X10's.

   I would sheath with 1/2" ply, 15# felt, 1x4 strapping 24"oc. Don't forget to bevel all joints and the bottom of each board.

   -pm

4. 
   Bill_Sorter | Jun 08, 2000 03:42am | #6

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   Mr. Architect calls out rough cut 1X10's, front boards overlapping 1" over rears. No Tyvec, but felt because of tannin damage to Tyvek. (?) My question (or questions, I guess) what nailing schedule for expansion of boards? And has anybody found a great type of blocking for using underneath the proud boards?