Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Mar 23, 2011 04:16pm | #1

   Is there sheathing under the boards, what kind of shape are the boards currently in, what are you going to do at door, corner and window trim?

1. 
   ets59 | Mar 26, 2011 11:38am | #2

   Cedar Shingle Siding Questin

   I am not sure if their is sheathing under the Boards. The original foot print was built in 85 and then an addition was built in 2002. I have not looked under the Board on either the the original or the addition. 

   It appears that a Batten was place against the window trim so if we remove the Batten's the shingle will replace the Batten width but their could be problem with the trim on the ends of the house.

   Some of the boards that are part of the original house are bowed a little.. The boards on the addition are in good shape . 

   In running feet  I would estimate that the original boards are about 50% of the total to be shingled. 

   The reason for the project is that the previous owners Shingled the front and the west side of the house and use Board and Batten on the back and east side of the house. We would like to shingle the back and east side of the house.

   Note both doors are on the front of the house.

   Thanks for taking the time to Reply

1. 
   hammer1 | Mar 26, 2011 02:40pm | #3

   The boards are not likely to move much anymore. Typical tripple coverage with shingles adds up in thickness to 3/4" or more. Normally you want the trim to be slightly thicker. If the window trim projects at least 3/4" you will probably be OK. You can either weave the corners or use corner boards. Solid board sheathing was common until the 70's. I don't see any reason not to shingle over what you have.

2. 
   toolpouchguy | Mar 26, 2011 02:58pm | #4

   cedar shingles

   if you go over the boards you will want to add some benjamin obdyke cedar breather

   or strapping on 5" centers I have installed millions of shingles and trust me you want a breather

   and normaly the shingles will add up to 1 1/8 th inch in thickness.

   and I usually add a 1/4" cedar strip at the bottom to make the rows stand out a bit more then do the double row

   I would remove the boards for what you are saving it will not be worth it in the long run .

   but they must breath

3. 
   Travis_Kinney | Mar 26, 2011 04:01pm | #5

   Even if there isn't any sheathing under the boards, you're better off removing them and applying something like Adventech plywood and tape the seams. From an energy perspective, you're not getting much out of those boards. I would be more worried about air infiltration.

   Best practice would probably be new sheathing, taped seams, Tyvek, cedar-breather material for create bond-break for any water that gets past new shingles.

   The previous owner was probably duplicating a style common in early 1900's where the nice material was facing the public and cheaper material used on sides and back.

   A lot of barns have clapboard fronts and board-n-batten sides and/or rear.

   Be sure to use stainless ring-shank nails for installation of shingles.

   -Travis

4. 
   Piffin | Mar 27, 2011 11:31am | #6

   U B OK

   remove battens

   Be sure boards are well nailed off. Normal B&B nailing is one nail at center of the board. For this you would need the edges nailed in place snugg too.

   Apply tarpaper if there is none under the boards

   Then shingle away