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ceramic tile prep

| Posted in Construction Techniques on November 3, 2008 03:19am

I am working on an addition to our house and so far have played the roles of carpenter, electrician, plumber, painter, cabinetmaker and well you get the idea. My current role is tile installer. I am installing 12×12 ceramic tile in a 9’x10′ second floor bath. The floor is 16″ web joists on 12″ centers and 5/8″ subfloor. Aside from some floor levelling compound what needs to go down before the tile. I would like to minimize floor thickness if possible. Any and all help is greatly appreciatted. So much of what I have already completed is thanks in a very large part to the incredible (and often comedic) advice I have gleaned from this site. So I also want to thank all those who have unknowingly helped me in the past.

Reply

Replies

  1. Steinmetz | Nov 03, 2008 03:25am | #1

    wire lath

  2. jrnbj | Nov 03, 2008 04:12am | #2

    Google TCA, Tile Council Of America. They have online guides
    Even better, Google John Bridge tile forum.....everything you always wanted to know about tile.
    The old "Jersey mud job" i.e. tarpaper, diamond lath, and mud is probably where you'll end up.......

  3. FastEddie | Nov 03, 2008 04:34am | #3

    johnbridge.com is an excellent tile site.  They are very happy to help rookies, especially if you explain the situation fully and don't have an attitude.

    "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

    "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt



    Edited 11/2/2008 8:35 pm ET by FastEddie

  4. User avater
    Jeff_Clarke | Nov 03, 2008 04:38am | #4

    Span of the I-joists (or floor trusses)?

    "Aside from some floor levelling compound what needs to go down before the tile."

    Assuming that your deflection is OK - 1/2" cement board.

    Jeff

  5. User avater
    AbbieHoffman | Nov 03, 2008 04:58am | #5

    Add another 1/2" of subfloor. You should have minimally 1 1/8" down to avoid any deflection in the floor. Nice that your joists are 12 oc. that sure helps a lot.

    You might consider using Ditra instead of cement backer board. Google it. It's also easier and better in a lot of instances...just more expensive in materials. Easier to install though.

    "Revolution is not something fixed in ideology, nor is it something fashioned to a particular decade. It is a perpetual process embedded in the human spirit". abbie

    "Give them what they want" abbie

    1. Shep | Nov 03, 2008 05:55am | #6

      Exactly what I was going to say. Ditra's great. Its a lot easier to carry up a flight of stairs than a bunch of sheets of cement board.

      1. User avater
        AbbieHoffman | Nov 03, 2008 07:37am | #7

        It is quite a bit more expensive though but if you need a lot and have to carry it any distance at all Ditra is the way to go being it's light...can be cut with shears or a knife and no need to bother with fastners. Plus it adds crack resistance.

        Some people think backer board adds to the integrity of the floor which it doesn't.

        Matter of fact if I end up using either Wonderboard or Hardibacker I probably shouldn't even bother with 1/2". Just use 1/4". Probably'll go with Hardi being thats so much easier to deal with then Wonderboard  and I think as good for dry areas of the bathroom floor.

        edit: I think when i was at HD last week I priced Ditra and Wonderboard and figured Ditra was about 2-3x more $

        "Revolution is not something fixed in ideology, nor is it something fashioned to a particular decade. It is a perpetual process embedded in the human spirit". abbie

        "Give them what they want" abbie

        Edited 11/2/2008 11:39 pm ET by AbbieHoffman

        1. Shep | Nov 04, 2008 02:24am | #8

          I trimmed a house on LBI a couple of years ago. The tile guy used the Ditra on the floors there.

          The top floor was BIG. And completely tiled. If he had to carry up cement board to cover that, it would have taken forever.

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