We lost our contractor in the middle of a kitchen renovation–long story, which I’m hoping will all work out for the best.
We’ve got some experience and substantial time and patience, and are taking on some of the tasks ourselves. I have run into a couple questions, though–all help is appreciated.
We are moving a passageway, which requires extending a partition wall about 2 feet. I’m not sure how to tie the extension to the existing wall–there’s no room to screw a 2 x 4 onto the end of the current wall, as a duct has already been placed. Should I strip off the drywall from the existing wall (it’s only about 3 feet long), and use that to tie the two wall pieces together?
Also–122 inches of cabinets and stove are sitting in our basement, waiting to be placed along a wall that is 123 inches long. I figure we’ll need some bit of space for sliding the stove in, etc. Is an inch too much? Is it lunacy to use a layer of drywall to tighten the space (I’ve got another, funky, masonry-and-plaster wall I wouldn’t mind covering)? If not, what’s the best way to attach new drywall to plaster, wire lath, and masonry?
And finally–what do you do with that corner mesh that used to be used instead of corner bead? I hate to tear it out, as it will mess up the adjoining ceilings, but it’s hanging from the corners where we’ve taken out a wall.
Thanks so much–I’ve already used techniques from this forum to get through other scrapes!
Melissa
Replies
Drywall will help tie the walls together. I would definitely tear the sheetrock off the 3' wall, and rock it all together. A layer of plywood first before rocking will add strength - as would a horizontal 2x4 "let-in" (mortised) across the studs.
An inch is not too much. That's 1/2 inch each end. That's what scribe molding is for.
Just cut the dangling corner mesh.
Thanks for the feedback, Huck--
I hadn't thought about mortising a horizontal 2x4--will do.
As for the cabinets--there are corner cabinets at each end of the wall in question, which then tie into cabinets on the adjoining walls. So the 1/2 inch gap would carry around these corners. Eek.
Melissa
A small sketch of the layout might help us detemine the best location for scribes or fillers.
Wood is Good
Adam Greisz<!----><!---->
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Adam --
Here's my best attempt to draw it out. I didn't realize my computer skills would be tested as well as my carpentry!
Melissa
Heres some more testing of your computer skills.
Are there uppers and lowers?
How do the cabinet boxes breakout? I.E. 36" box each side of range, ect.
Where does the range go?
What do you mean by corner cabinets?
Did the company that provided the cabinets give you a recommended layout?
Will try to help with whatever you provide.
Wood is Good
Adam Greisz<!----><!---->
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Adam--
There are both upper and lower cabinets. I can't remember the exact layout, but essentially, on the bottom, there are corner cabinets (made to install in corners, with lazy-susan set up inside) that each take 36 inches on each side of the wall, and meet cabinets on both walls.
The stove is 30 inches, more or less centered on the 123 inch wall. Small cabinets (8 and 9 inches, I think) fill in between the corner cabinets and the stove.
Around one corner, the cabinet meets the sink setup. Around the other, there's another small cabinet and then the refrigerator (this is the wall that will be extended). So everything has to match.
The uppers are similar, although--cabinets on either side of the range hood, ending with a corner cabinet. There's one cabinet around the corner on the wall that's going to be extended, then the refrigerator. On the other side, everything stops at the upper corner.
If we take out the existing drywall, to tie the extension onto the existing wall, we'll have the opportunity to take up some space with firring, thicker drywall, etc. But I don't want to make everything so tight that I can't get the pieces in place.
Any advice?
Melissa
Usually cabinets come with filler strips, a 3/4" thick piece of wood finished to match the cabinets, that you can rip to any width. Or put them at the ends, where the abutting cabinets will die into them. I think you're overthinking the 1" thing - I'd be more worried if you didn't have 1" to play with!
I always like to measure the actual cabinets and appliances. This allows you to plan for exact measurements. If the range is designed for a 30" opening then you do not need more then 30 1/8". Measure the Hood as well it is probably 30" wide. Cabinets can build up a little as you gang them together. Cetainly not a full inch. Is there a cabinet over the hood?
Typically a cabinet would hit the wall with a scribe. This is either a filler strip as already mentioned or a strip that is on the corner of the cabinet where it hits the wall. Either would be scribed to the wall to allow for framing/ sheetrock irregularities.
This scribe might actually go on the farthest cabinet around the corner. And the rest of the cabinets would be furred out to match. This could be the corner cabinet or maybe even the end panel for the refrigerator.
Blue tape and actual layout on the wall will help before installation. I think furring out the wall is a great idea.
Wood is Good
Adam Greisz<!----><!---->
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Edited 8/10/2005 2:14 am ET by Adam Greisz
New wall is fastened to floor and ceiling. Drywall ties it all together. (ceiling could be tricky)You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
I guess I'm missing something, but the half inch at each end (of the 122" cabinets on a 123" wall) would be hidden by the other cabinets, wouldn't it? (The legs of the "U" would hide the bottom of the "U".) Like someone else said, attaching the new wall to floor and ceiling would make it pretty strong. Taking old drywall off would add a little, but would mainly make the joing between old and new not show.
there are corner cabinets at each end of the wall in question
Are these angle-front, right-angle, or blind-corner cabinets. A 48 x 48 corner unit will want aligning to both adjacent runs of cabinets, which can take some finagling.
If it's a blind corner (has a blank face where it slides into the corner), then, just pull it over as needed to fit what ever the range installation defines is the right space.
Oh, and welcome to BT.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
If you can find someone experienced with real plaster finishes, they will be able to finish out all the walls and deal with the brick wall and deal with the hanging wire thing. And it will look great when done. I'm not a big fan of mixing in drywall with plaster though it is certainly doable. But it will look different, more flat, and will not be as hard.
I would try to get some cross bracing in the wall you are joining to some way. I can't picture the duct issue (I'm terrible at translating words to pictures) but basically, add a couple of horizontal cross pieces between two studs somehow, well secured.
What about Simpson strap ties?
Melissa,
On the wall that needs extending, fur it out towards the kitchen with 1x3s, which are actually 3/4" thick.
Drywall it with 5/8" drywall.
This will make your 123" wall 122 1/8" and substantially tie the existing wall and the extension together.
Uhm, I assuming that your measurements are finish to finish.
SamT