Replies

1. 
   Gregory_Yoykon | Apr 07, 1999 05:05am | #2

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   Better take it all back and get your money back while you still can. If you think you can put veneer on like that without a vacuum press, you are dreaming.

2. 
   SteveM_ | Apr 07, 1999 06:19am | #3

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   Hi Dennis,

   I have to say that if you are a novice, this will likely be a trying task. I hope you ordered some extra. If it is thermo-foil or some similar PVC type product it is not very forgiving stuff. The smallest imperfection/spec of saw-dust/whatever, will leave a pimple that is quite noticeable. One of the problems you will face is static electricity. That stuff attracts small particles like crazy. Next biggest problem may be the kind of contact cement you use. If it is colored, and most of it is, the color will sometimes bleed through. I know I am making this sound impossible and that is NOT my intent. I am simply passing on my experience.

   So.... I would plan my cuts very carefully, and try to have the largest pc possible left. I would thn do a test pc to try the contact cement for bleeding. Then I would try pcs that you could do a second time out of left-overs to gain experience. I have had my best results with spray adhesive made by a company called STA-PUT and it is available in a formula that is clear. What makes this brand work well is an adjustable spray. If sprayed on the FINE setting you get very few lumps which cause the dreaded pimples. My last word of caution is THIS STUFF STICKS LIKE CRAZY!!! If you get a wrinkle, a pimple, or anything there is no pulling it back up. Start over. With lots of experience it is sometimes possible to pull up a small section, but it's tricky. Feel free to contact me direct for further info if you like.

   SteveM

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 07, 1999 10:17pm | #4

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   Well, here I go again. I have just bought $1,500 worth of particle board, foil veneered mission style cabinets for my kitchen in WI. Well, the stiles and rails are real maple at least. Now, armed with my trusty book on cabinet refinishing, and $300 worth of veneer, I am going to make them look great. Any experince, good or bad on laminating with peel and stick plus water based contact cement? Kimball said it would work in his Tauton book, so I took his word for it.
   Yeah, I am cheap, but I saved about $1,200. Now, I shall record the hours and see what I make per hour.

   Dennis

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 01, 1999 08:17am | #1

   *Dennis, I am curious as to how it all turns out. I'm doing a Oak built in for one customer next, and some cabinets later in the year for "this older house" I'm working in now. Good luck, post photos if you can.

4. 
   Guest_ | Apr 07, 1999 10:17pm | #5

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   Just putting it on the bottoms which are white and maybe the ends all of which are flat. I have no idea how it will work, but I intend to try an end that faces a wall first - dry run so to speak. I have used these cabinets several times before and have been happy with them, but this is an especially nice project in a great neighborhood so I wanted a little nicer look. Still, I always work to a budget and refrain from the comment, "Well, as long as we are doing it, why not...?" Thanks for the comments - I expect the cabinets in two weeks or less and I shall keep you posted. Also, I have am toying with HTML and if and when I get it to work, I shall try and post pictures.

   Dennis