Replies

1. 
   Eric_Svendson | Jan 05, 2002 07:04pm | #1

   *
   There are regular posters to this forum that have far more experience than I with fibercement siding but here is what I have learned from doing my 1941 era 24 x 20 garage myself:

   a. Make a drawing. This will allow you to "see" what exposure might look "best" on your structure and likely change the exposure such that your boards are level with windows/doors. IMHO this gives the best "look".

   b. Build a "test" panel (say 1' x 6') with desired exposure and two coats of color choice to see how it will look. You might even make this a corner panel to test your skill at cutting the bevels. Personally I would recommend corner boards because I doubt the FC planks will bevel clean plus I think you will be cutting compound angles.

   c. No problems with HardiPlank. I ended up using the Cemplank beaded select smooth but the few Hardi boards I purchased in my experimental stage felt stiffer. I used 30# paper because I wanted to give the boards something "comfortable" to lay against.

   d. I predrilled & screwed all my boards on using cement board screws but used 6d SS at the butts and when I needed a little help getting a board to lay flat. I learned that a ring shank nail has unbelievable holding power. Removing screws is easy when you "mess-up".

   e. Buy the factory primed boards and put one finish coat on before application and one after all is up. This takes more time but ...

   f. I used OSI Quad Sealant caulk with a $20 gun. One of the best purchases I have ever made. I left 1/8" gaps on boards and trim.

   g. Rent scaffolding - it's so cheap you'll be patting yourself on the back.

   h. Do a search on this board. There's more (and better) info than I have provided. Download and compare mfg installation instructions. Do a web search on "wood siding exposure".

   Eric Svendson
   Silver Spring, MD

1. 
   Bucksnort_Billy | Jan 07, 2002 12:21am | #2

   *David, I used Hardiplank on my own house, and think it's great. Recently used Cemplank and had to predrill all the ends, the stuff is pretty brittle there, but once it's up it seems fine.I think it would be hard, if not impossble, to miter the outside corners. I used Snapper shears, no way they could cut that.You should be able to do a search for the rest your questions...Good luck, bb

1. 
   C._Webb | Jan 08, 2002 06:20am | #3

   *Dave,I am not an expert, but.I agree with Billy you would be better off to use corner boards. With lap siding you end up dealing with a tricky compound cut due to the overlap of the siding when you try to miter. If you use corner boards and inside corner blocks you will save time, just cut, caulk, and hang. If you are determined to mitre get a diamond blade for you slider. Dusty though.A friend of mine said that the stuff is hard so he airnailed with a senco, not sure what nailer.C

1. 
   jmotycka | Jan 09, 2002 03:52am | #4

   *I am working on a job that requires some repairs to lap siding that has holes chewed in it from a rodent. Can anyone explain to me how to cut out the bad lap siding on the bottom of the house so I can replace it? I'm guessing that I need to pry the board up above and cut the chewed siding out with a sawsall, but it seems like that would be hard to get a straight cut. Any suggestions?

1. 
   Mike_Smith | Jan 09, 2002 05:41am | #5

   *if it's painted you overcut it.. and fill the overcut.. if not.. then you pry up and practise, practise , practise...