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I want to paint the floor of my basement workshop. It is dry and only 5 years old. It has had Drywall Joint Compound spilled on it while the walls and ceiling were being finished.
Do I need to clean off the deep penetrated joint compound? I have scraped the floor but the marks are still there. How do I clean the Joint compound?
What is a good floor paint for a workshop floor?
When deck posts exceed what the prescriptive code tables allow, it's time to consult a structural engineer for post sizing and possible bracing.
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Replies
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I would clean floor as well as possible w TSP. If you use a good epoxy based coating, you shouldn't have to get the deep joint compound out. You'll need to follow mfr's rec. for surface prep. Several good products are made by Sonneborn, Stonhard and Tnemec. Many products use a aggregate broadcast into the uncured coating for slip resistance if desired as a straight epoxy coating can be slick.
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I would never, ever recommend to anyone that they paint masonry, be it floor, wall, driveway, bricks, any of it. And the industry associations will say the same thing. Consumer grade paint doesn't adhere well, and it can be potentially disastrous to exterior masonry. You'd be spending the rest of your life re-painting. I would recommend, instead, that concrete stain be applied, if color is desired, and that it be followed with a compatible sealer, be it acrylic or epoxy based. Acrylic is less expensive, but epoxy is virtually indestructible in a work shop environment. An alternative would be an industrial grade paint, which you'd probably have to special order. Go to the PPG Web site for examples.
Barry
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Phil, I have to agree with both Barry and Fred. Everything I have read indicates that if you INSIST upon painting a basement floor use an epoxy paint, but the best advice is NOT to paint!
*I somewhat agree with Barry, i.e most consumer grade paints will not last. However, commercial duty coatings (Tnemec, Stonhard) will last for significant periods of time without recoating.. Be prepared to spend upwards of $100/gal to get this kind of performance.
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Phil, I'd follow Fred's instructions for cleaning. The drywall mud is water-soluble (unless it's Durabond or simialr), and should come up easily.
If you are not interested in a particualr color for your floor, consider a concrete sealer such as is used in warehouses and manufacturing areas. The concrete will look pretty much the same, but will not have a dusty surface and will sweep up nicely. It will be a bit slicker with sealer applied. You'll probably have to buy a 5-gallon bucket and a lambs wool applicator, but the stuff is inexpensive compared to epoxies, etc.
Good luck, Steve
*I've painted a concrete slab with a Rustoleum epoxy coating (9500 series I believe). This stuff is INCREDIBLY durable. It is a 100% solids coating: you put down a 15 mil wet coating and it cures to 15 mils. No solvent.You need to make certain you can get a good "teeth". New concrete needs to be etched, although yours should be more than old enough. Rustoleum industrial vendors have excellent support materials for preparation.I would give you one caveat: if there is any moisture, any coating will not last. Sometimes it is hard to see. Take a piece of plastic 3ft square, and place it down. If the concrete darkens after 24-48 hrs you are SOL.Putting these coatings down is tricky. This particular coating is thick and is spread with a squeegy (sp?). I then backrolled it lightly to eliminate any ridges. The stuff is also expensive. I spent around $350 for a 600 sq ft area.Looks good and cleans up great.G luckAdam
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I've a simular situation I'd like to attempt. The house is about 30 years and built on a slab... I've removed the shag carpet from the bedrooms and think staining the concrete would look great. I've seen some commercial floors in grocery stores that are truly inspirational...modolled (sp) color, semi-gloss finish. So, it looks like old concrete can be stained. I was beginning to give up hope on finding the experience that would outline how to do it.
Please...any and all experience come to my rescue. I need to 1. Clean the cement with tsp. 2. Dry. 3. Vacum to assure no dust, pet hair, etc. has re-appeared on the surface. 4. Stain (What's the best technique to assure a good adherance?) the concrete surface. 5. Seal (Once again, what's the best technique to assure adherance?)
Thank you in advance for everyone's knowledge and help!
*I haven't seem my message posted, so if I'm redundent, please bear with me. I'd like to stain the concrete floors in our 30-year old slab on grade home and am looking for the best technique to pull off the mottelled colur and finish that I see in newly constructed grocery stores. Please, if anyone can offer a 'recipe' to follow (both technique and stain), I'm a sponge waiting to soak it up.
*Okay Phil, the way I see it is that you should have absolutely no problem painting this floor. I would suggest that you etch it a medium strength solution of muriatic acid, allow it to dry thoroughly. Paint with a Floor Paint - Both Moore and Para manufacture this product. Generally available in two lines - a low lustre or "velvet" finish latex or a high gloss alkyd. You will probably prefer the latex - dries quicker, and is less likely to have problems with any moisture. Just roll it on with a high nap roller and it will look like you've got a brand new floor down there.You could get really tricky and mark off a grid pattern with tape, roll your paint. Let it dry, remove the tape - Bingo - instant floor tiles!Have fun!Linda
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I want to paint the floor of my basement workshop. It is dry and only 5 years old. It has had Drywall Joint Compound spilled on it while the walls and ceiling were being finished.
Do I need to clean off the deep penetrated joint compound? I have scraped the floor but the marks are still there. How do I clean the Joint compound?
What is a good floor paint for a workshop floor?