Replies

1. 
   alias | Sep 26, 2005 02:53am | #1

   the best recipe's would be to check out the knots archives there are some good advice there for this malady.....

   depending on the severity of the rust , wd 40 and 320 grit paper and ####R.O.Sander variable speed is perfered set at around 3-4 work the grit to 600 wet dry sandpaper. than wipe clean i spray with denatured alcohol. i wipe that clean very well than dry with a hair dryer . i use a product called slip-it ( goggle is my friend) and with a white 3-m abrasive pad wipe that in with minimal elbow grease let it dry up alittle than with hand rub out than polish/buff with my bosch grinder that can retro fitted with porter cable buffing wool pads . it passes the sliding test with a cut off piece of wood that will i'll be running through it.

   good luck and wished i was in new zealand right now....

   " Feed the good wolf....."
1. 
   kiwikid | Sep 26, 2005 07:04am | #6

   thanks for the info. I wish I was in NZ too! I live in Vancouver BC now."enjoy what you do, do what you enjoy"

    

    

1. 
   Sphere | Sep 26, 2005 03:05pm | #7

   After the rust gone and you wax it, a dusting of baby powder in between really works well too.

   I only rewax when it gets really bad.  There is also a powdered mica dust that is used in reloading ( bullets) that is SUPER slick.

   My bearings are shot so I don't yet know how long that will last..but it has been a few months and a LOT of wood, and it still is pretty slick.

   When I get the new bearings from a backorder, I'll be back in action.  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

2. 
   Hoohuli | Sep 26, 2005 02:56am | #2

   I just use some 150 grit sand paper and then wax with Johnsons paste wax. Mine is out in a breeze way all the time so it gets hit with the salty trade winds constantly. All our tools over here that are exposed to the wind rust, but sandpaper on a block for even sanding and a good paste wax seem to last the longest. One of these days I have to figure out a way to put a garage/workshop on our property, but the Assoc. gets in the way. Canvas covers made by my wife really help alot.

   If at first you don't succeed, GET A BIGGER HAMMER!
3. 
   Piffin | Sep 26, 2005 03:04am | #3

   I use white vinegar and steel wool for a light brown haze, but get the orbital and WD$) for a heavier intrusion

   lately I have been using Slip-it, but I don't think it is as good as the Boeshield B-9 that I used to use

    

    

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   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
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4. 
   Piffin | Sep 26, 2005 03:07am | #4

   http://www.google.com/url?sa=l&q=http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/fullpres.exe%3FPARTNUM%3D821-322%26go%3D552%26KEY%3DBOESHIELD%2BRUST%2BINHIBITOR&ai=BSWNKVjs3Q7bvKc2yiAH5lcWxCP3argKl0LUHkNGQGaCcARADGAMoAzABSJc5UMu3h6sGkAECmAHKjQbIAQE&num=3

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

5. 
   IdahoDon | Sep 26, 2005 03:14am | #5

   400 gr. paper followed with paste wax simply wiped on with a paper towel.

6. 
   Grizzly | Sep 26, 2005 04:39pm | #8

   Grab your orbital with some fine sandpaper...buff nice and shiny...no need for special waxes just go to the kitchen grab some waxpaper (the kind you wrap sandwiches in) and place under your orbital. Does a great job.

   Byron