Clearance around recessed lights?
Folks –
I’m trying to complete a job left undone in a recent small home renovation, and have a question on recessed lights clearance/ventilation.
In the addition, we have two closets, each with a recessed light in the ceiling of the closet. The rooms have cathedral ceilings, so above the closets we put an opening in the wall to gain additional storage space, sort of a second story closet. The bottom of the “second story” closet would be over the recessed lights of the main closet below. I’ve attached a pic of the closets and the currently unfinished bottom of the upper closet.
I unfortunately do not have any paperwork on the specs of the lights, and the fixtures themselves do not have any labeling that I can see, so I don’t know if these lights can be fully enclosed. The plan had been to put a “floor” on the bottom of the upper closet, setting it on top of the 2×6’s seen in the pic labeled “bottom upper closet”. My concern is that these lights would then be fully enclosed, and of course I don’t know what sort of heat build-up might occur.
Is there any way I can tell from the appearance of the fixture if it’s ok to enclose the space above them? Am I worried needlessly? Or, should I leave a space around the edge of the “floor” of the upper closet (I am planning to use 3/4″ melamine) – it would not be a problem either structurally or aesthetically to leave a gap on the sides, only a place for small objects to lose themselves into.
Thanks –
Ken Platt – Granby, CT
Replies
Look on the label on the inside of the can and see what it says about insulation contact.
Also get the model number and then you can probably download a spec sheet.
If there are no markings on the cans, and things are still open and accessable, why not replace them with cans rated for insulation contact. That's probably less expensive (and faster) than trying to do a lot of research.
You shouldn't have a problem "enclosing" the cans. It's no different than putting recessed lighting in a ground floor room of a two story house.
If the light cans are UL listed, they will have thermal protection. If the thermal protection causes the lights to wink off after a time in operation. come back in and install some round drilled in soffit vents in the floor of the upper closet. I don't think you sill need to do that. The uninsulated space will dissipate the heat.
They look like JUNO model IC22 cans. IF in fact they are, then you can bury them in insulation. If there is no lable and no other way of identifying them, I would replace them. Ten to fifteen bucks each depending on where you get them.
Nice call, bos'n. Took the can apart a bit, label says Juno IC22.
Ken
Typically inside the fixture you will find a label that specifies, sometimes indirectly, the lamps, wattages, trims and if the fixture is rated for direct contact with insulation. Typically the IC , direct insulation contact, rating is attached to the can itself while the lamp style and wattage is linked to what trim you use.
Sometimes, especially if the fixture is old, the printing or label is missing or damaged beyond reading. If your lucky the manufacturer and model number will be pressed into the inside. A strong flashlight, a mechanics mirror and some skill at reading print backwards often helps.
With the make and model you can refer to the manufacturers catalog and find the information. The catalog is often available at larger light shops and electrical supply houses. Most big-box hardwares have a collection of them. The problem is that if the fixtures are a couple of decades old they likely aren't listed in the current catalogs.
Most larger manufacturers have 1-800 numbers you can call. The current catalog usually has the number you want. They should be able to help you out.
If all else fails remove the core of the can, bend or saw the frame out of the way and install new 'old work' cans in the same mounting holes. Actually pretty easy as long as there is slack in the cable.
Check with the AHJ, inspectors, and find out what they like to see in closets. Some don't like can lights. Even with a trim that totally encloses the lamp. Some push for a florescent fixture and preferably a surface mounted one.
Idea being that it is too easy for a glass dome or enclosing trim to get left off or lost in time. The more frequent lamp changes that a incandescent lamp demands only making it more likely.
Surface mounting is thought to be superior because it has a smaller opening to the attic if the fixture overheats. Thew idea being a fire in a closet is more of a risk because it can remain concealed for a long time and if it makes it into an attic the risk multiplies.
These preferences are above what the NEC calls for. Of course the AHJ can demand what they wish by local standard. Some inspectors will express a preference without making it a requirement. How far beyond the minimum requirement you go to make them happy is then up to you. Some inspectors have a sense of humor and easy frame of mind. Some don't. Your mileage will almost always vary.
>>Surface mounting is thought to be superior <<
We actually asked for surface mounted lamps, as it's just a closet, so we figured that the basic cheap and easy would do. The electrician told us that code here calls for recessed, according to him so that there would be less chance of breaking light bulbs. Go figure. Thanks much,
Ken
WFIT worth here is a summary of the code.Of course local code might be different.http://www.codecheck.com/pg27_28electrical.html#rough
Re: ">>Surface mounting is thought to be superior <<"I should have written more clearly and specified that it be a surface mounted florescent. A two-foot model is usually more than sufficient. A surface mounted fluorescent needs no junction box. You just tail out the Romex, So there is only a small hole. And this is largely blocked by the sheet metal body of the fixture and connector.A lot of people find the light given by a fluorescent tube, because it is not a point source, to be better than a single incandescent bulb.
me ... I'd just try and save a few bucks and chance burning my house down ...
but that's just me.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
... any pot will do, the space isn't insulated ..
Thanks all - too the can apart a bit, found the label, looks like they are IC rated lamps, so I can enclose without worry. I also found what must be the heat safety cutoff, right on top of the can. I appreciate the assistance.
Ken