I live in the Upper Catskill Mountain region of New York State. I am looking for an approximate cost for closed cell foam insulation for my own budgeting purposes. This is for my own house that I have built – will probably have the experts handle this task but I don’t know what cost to assign as I try to keep this project moving… financially and physically. Thanks.
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Greetings Bill,
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again which will increase it's viewing.
Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
Probably too wide a range for you but...$1 to $2 per board foot.
On a whole house job in nothern Michigan you would be looking a $.90-$1.15 per board foot depending on the style of house and the location. 1/2 lb would be in the $.39-.50 range.
Garett
Never budget from hearsay, call installers and get bids. You'll learn exactly what you need, and the right questions to ask<G> Winterlude, Winterlude, my little daisy,
Winterlude by the telephone wire,
Winterlude, it's makin' me lazy,
Come on, sit by the logs in the fire.
The moonlight reflects from the window
Where the snowflakes, they cover the sand.
Come out tonight, ev'rything will be tight,
Winterlude, this dude thinks you're grand.
I'm just outside Boston and closed cell runs about $.95/board foot. open cell is about half of that. ####
All:
I think the guy got an answer or 3 so I'm gonna maybe take this thread off on a tangent:
If site sprayed closed cell foam insulation is 2x the cost of open cell is closed cell any where close to 2x as effective? And... to get, say an overall performance of a wall assembly of R-15 (for example) what thickness of closed cell material would be required, as opposed to what thickness of open cell material would be required? Or are the different brands so all over the map that one can't really make any generalized statements of comparison - open to closed?
Do the closed cell products have a major advantage with regard to their inability to absorb any kind of moisture (I assume) as opposed to open cell, which again I assume, can absorb some moisture?
I just talked with my sub about this so let me pass on what he told me. Open cell is more cost effective if you are evaluating it strictly from an R value perspective. Closed cell, however, has a lower vapor permeance which makes it a better candidate for bathrooms (which is what i was talking to him about).
In comparing the relative merits of open cell/closed cell foam, it's important to be aware of the climate zone. It is generally recommended to use closed cell in colder climates because of the lower vapor permeance. Check out this link for a greener version of spray in foam: http://www.biobased.net/index.php I borrowed this from their site--"Both open-cell and closed-cell foams stop the movement of air and slow down the transfer of heat. Open-cell foam products are generally not considered vapor retarders. In climate zones 6-8 a vapor retarder system may be required on the warm side of the insulation relative to the design of the wall or ceiling system. Open-cell foam should never be used for exterior applications. Open-cell foams are more cost effective per unit of R-value than closed-cell foams but do not provide the structural contribution to a building that closed-cell foams do.Closed-cell foams, on the other hand, have low vapor permeance due to their cell structure. These foams, depending on thickness, may be considered a vapor retarder but not a vapor barrier. Closed-cell foams also have a high compressive strength which allows them to be used for exterior applications."Hope this helps, Daniel
I just had a new house insulated in northern Michigan. 2 X 6 walls, 3,382 Sq Ft floor area for main and upstairs floors. Estimated bid was 32,000 dollars for closed cell foam.
I ended up installing Insul Wool which is cellulose treated with borate, mold retardant, and for fire retardant. The whole job included labor for hanging and finishing walls and overhead with 5/8 board and skim coat finish cost less than 18G not counting cost of board and mud etc. R-50 in all overhead. The insulation job alone was 7,500 dollars, less than a third of the closed cell estimate, and for the same "R" factor requirements that I needed.
I feel that closed cell foam is the way to go however it is a dreamland plateau for pricing. There is not enough competition out there. My house is extremely well caulked and fortified with tyvex and closely controlled on inside for any vapor leakage. All sill and plate penetrations are fire caulked. Great Stuff foam sealing all windows and doors. Yes the house can breath with two energy recovery ventilators. Furnaces and hot water heater are sealed combustion with fresh air from outside supply. Lots of other energy saving designs and applications to numerous to mention here.
So far, so good, House has full basement with an 85 thousand BTU hot air furnace zoned for the 2,500 Sq ft basement. House has a 120 thousand BTU hot air furnace for heating the upstairs and it hasn't been used so far this winter. Just the heat coming up the stairwell from the basement is keeping the whole house within 2 degrees of the basement setting. Counting the basement sq.ft I am heating total is 5,882 Sq ft. I have 2" Dow Blue Board on walls of the basement installed at separate cost.
The small furnace is not overworked, it comes on once in a while about as often as one might expect under somewhat normal cycling.
I furnish this information solely as input for you to help make your own decision. My fuel bill at this time can not accurately be calculated at this time as the house was finished a couple months back.
Welcome to just south of the Great White North, are you building in the U.P. or the northern lower peninsula?Garett
Great info. Our houses are very close in square footage, heating needs, etc. I really appreciate your time. I have been considering closed cell primarily for air infiltration. I, too have done tyvek the right way and sealed eveything properly along every step of construction. I don't want to compromise now but the budget gets tighter every day, it seems. I don't mind spending more when the return will be there; but sometimes I'm not very god and determining where that point of diminishing return is. Thanks, again. BTW - and radiant floor?
BillD60,
Good luck in your decisions, I know very well how things keep creeping over budget. I think the first line of defense in minimizing heating and cooling costs is the sealing of the envelope. I had to check everything myself, couldn't count on contractors or other hired help. Once you get everything really well sealed and have the depth to get at least R18-19 in the walls and R-50 in all the overhead You won't be unhappy with open cell foam or cellulose insulation.
I have lots of south facing windows and doors all with argon and low "E" features. The reason I went with forced hot air so that the air gets moved around the house during sunny days. The furnaces have infinitely variable blowers from about 30 % capacity. Many air returns are up high near ceiling to pull stagnant air back into circulation where it is more useful. All air is scrubbed with electronic filters.
Again, best of success and a Merry Christmas or happy what ever else you might celebrate over the coming days.