Have a customer who wants a – ” in between stud cavity ” gun safe. Doesn’t need to be fireproof.
Utilitarian is the goal – don’t necessarily need the “cadilac” , but ergonomically useful features would be a plus.
Anybody got any good leads?
Looking to order something and install it – shop is too busy to make custom stuff. I’d love to do do custom but don’t have the time.
Time frame is about a week to my door.
Needs to hold a few long guns, and 5 or six handys.
Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
Replies
I just bought one for myself--funny.
I dunno but you could just hit the dept. store and get one. Screw it in between your studs, trim it out nice and be done.
One thing to stay away from--I bought mine b/c it was 50$ down from 170$ and it is supposed to hold 5 guns. It has a small shelf up top that isn't as deep as the unit. I assume this is to allow barrels to come up behind it. This is lame. Especially if you put them in in their cases.
I'd get one tall enough to not interfere with a shelf up top, which would be good for boxes of shells/carts. or handguns. (don't like handguns much myself...)
"Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."
wal mart
How did you know?"Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."
Cool, thanks.
Something to look out for is a plus.
Customer is most interested in accessability in those most needed moments, as opposed to displaying "hardware".
But making sure noone comes across them accidently is a huge plus. Needs to "grab and go" when needed.
Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
I belive Cabellas is just up the road from you.
Yep, Is that a good lead? - I don't have time to go on a scavenger hunt.
And just to let you know - or to rub it in -I'll be samwiched by a Bass Pro on the south side in a coupla' months.
But more importantly, do they stock the units I'm lookin' for?
I am extremely busy and trying to make my customers happy, I just need to fill the need at this point.Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
I bougth my safe at bass pro. we drove 120 miles one way to get it
they have a great web site & they can tell you what they have.
http://www.cabelas.com/home.jsp;jsessionid=MYDLRL5S5D2D5LAQBBJSCONMCAEFIIWE?_requestid=111190
Cool, thanks.Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
There are probably more informed than I but that 'much needed moment' scenario doesn't seem to really fly with the gunsafe IMHO.
Better know where that key is!
Or better yet, get a dog and you'll never have that intruder in the house.
I realize this is your customer, and you want to give him what he wants so don't take me wrong...
I got my safe for a new used rifle and two shotguns. I don't want my 4 year old daughter or any of her buddies to 'discover' the guns."Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."
I have some interesting customers.
The dog won't work.
>I got my safe for a new used rifle and two shotguns. I don't want my 4 year old daughter or any of her buddies to 'discover' the guns.
That's the driving force here - for the kids to not be able to "stumble" upon a weapon - but it/they must be semi-accessible, and unfortunately, loaded and ready. It is in the "safe wing" of the house.
I designed and pulled off the "safe wing" - you would either need the wings of angels or the strenghth of Atlas to gain entry. Now we just need a way for wayward infants to not stumble upon weaponry.
>Better know where that key is!
I would be happier to have a numeric code than a key - just for that reason. Money isn't really the issue - just find no reason to spend more for the sake of it , once the original requirements are met.Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
Verrrry interesting.
"I designed and pulled off the "safe wing" - you would either need the wings of angels or the strenghth of Atlas to gain entry."
This actually sounds like a pretty fun project.
The key code would be great. He'll want light to see it tho."Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."
Did a couple of them 2 years ago for a buddy........ Used a few of those super-strong rare earth magnets bored and epoxied into simple wood frames. Both racks were above closet doors (on the inside), one held a pistol, the other held a short shotgun. Just reach in and up, grab it and pull. The pistol rack was little more than a short piece of 1x, the thickness of the wood allowing clearance between the grips and the drywall. The shotgun rack was just an inverted L shaped shelf, with the magnets let into the underside.
Being inside the closet way above eye level on the wall you rarely look at, it seemed to him to be the best compromise between "hidden" and "accessible".
Guns meant for defense of self and home are rarely useful in a locked safe or cupboard.
Thanks, In any other situation I'd be looking for "full custom" ideas - and I appreciate yours.
I've had feedback from the HO and he likes the "in stud" models, so that is the directrion I will follow.
He seems to like that feature - I don't argue - .
If I had more time at this point, I would design and pull off the perfect scenario, But I've heard that the economy sucks - and I have soooo much work to do that I don't have the time to fab a perfect solution in house.
Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
Between studs? Only 3 1/2 inches deep? What is the deal? Please explain
This is not some kind of display situation.
I have found ( googled) some units already.
Just looking for positive feedback from someone who has been down this road.
It is for utilitarian use - function over form.Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
I understand the utilitarian thing. I want one as well for camera equipment, stamp and coin collections, guns, whatever. My question is , 3 1/2 inches deep? Stud depth? What gives with that? Or does it just fit between studs but extents into the room behind???????????
My question is , 3 1/2 inches deep? Stud depth? What gives with that?
Not much. But, remember that it's 3.5 + wallboard, plus the lip of the box, so you get 4.125-4.2 (semi)usable depth.
That's enough depth for binders of stamps or coins, stood up on edge. Not so good for camera gear. Also, these are generally just 20ga metal boxes, 10-15 miuntes of "fire protection" at best. Not ideal for stamps, coins, etc.
For fire protection levels, you need 2x6 wall depth at a minimum--and you still wind up with only about 4" inside clear.
What can be better is to "armor up" and existing closet. Strip an existing closet to studs and remove the door and frame. Reline the closet with cementitious board, rock wool between new galvanized studs, walls, floor, and ceiling, covered with more cementitious board. ("Silver cloth" over that if that's what's in there.) Fire-rated door and frame, keyed lock, done. (Ok, a lil' bit more than that, but I have to leave some things for rhe customer to pay for, don't I? <G>)Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
http://www.gunsafestore.com/rifle-case.htm
This is the one that keeps popping up in my searches.
don't know how fired up I am about 16Ga.
May elect to just go with a small freestanding unit - will be driven by HO.
Just trying to keep it simple.Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
If you go freestanding...
Take a look at Canon Safe. Jarhead & Brownbag lead me to them last spring. Digital keypad, good waranty, good price.
http://www.cannonsafe.com/
Just looking for positive feedback from someone who has been down this road.
It is for utilitarian use - function over form.
One of my niche markets, matter of fact.
For plain-jane, just locked away, the stak-on (from whatever retailer) will do nicely. Paint them the same color as the wall, and a rod of clothes over, and they are near invisible.
Now, if the client is a shooter, it's pointless to try and cover up the doors. (Can be worthwhile, if there are Design Committee objections, to use a coat of gray paint and a Fed-Pacific logo to mimic an electrical panel.)
Also, if you are going to get one, get two. You've seen previous comments about some of the odd shelves and the like, and that fitting things in cases or socks is not how the safes are designed (but are how they are used). Getting a "pistol-sized" second will let you lock all the ammo and "extra" bits away effortlessly.
Ideal pairing is one, no shelves at all, at least 54" tall inside. That lets you stash almost every long item out there. Get another the same size but all shelves (or adjustable shelves). Install them side by side, even if that means headering off the bays. If you don't, there's a strong probability you will be back in a month or so, having to either do an unbalanced second install, or in resetting both.
Getting two at once means being able to stop by the locksmith before installation and getting them keyed alike. (Locksmith can be a good source, too, but not usually any discount at all.)
Go find one of the closet dessication gizmos. Box style or hanger, depends on what is in the safe. This makes life with items in socks much nicer. Put a shelf about 3.5" deep over the top, too. This makes a good spot for a flashlight, can of spray cleaner, that sort of thing (gooseneck lamp very cool, too).
While ciphering on this, eyeball a good spot for a 700# safe, which will need/want about 33" wide & 60" deep clear. Forewarned being forearmed and all . . . Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Thanks.Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
Thanks.
No sweat. This is something I've more than a small amount of experience with.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Here in Texas the local Home Depot stocks the tall gun safes and usually marks them down after the Christmas holidays...
Bill
IMHO, you are much better off building a concealed or camouflaged compartment for a single loaded firearm that is accessible. A safe that takes more time for a sleepy person, in the dark, to open than it does for an intruder reach the bedroom from an access point is of little benefit.
The easiest is a handgun in a false breaker box or sub panel above a closet door or a pistol in a Phalanx holster screwed under a nightstand or bed.
YMMV
Jim
The awful thing is that beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and the devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man.
- Fyodor Dostoyevski
And why would you want a sleepy person fumbling around in the dark for a gun? I own guns and am defender of ownership rights but don't want a sleepy /confused person fumbling around with a gun. that's how alaot of the wrong people get shot.
alot? Really, I have not read of the sleepy-person-fatality-factor.
Ask for lengths of the guns he wants to store. Most cabinets are made for modern firearms. If he is a collector, into blackpowder, or civil war reenacting, many of the cabinets from Walmart/Cabella's are not tall enough (especially those with the fixed shelf at the top).
Jason
I just panned each side of a stud bay like it was a cold air return, nailed the tin on one side to a hinged piece of ply, put a grill at the bottom ... no ones ever given it a second look ..
Not a collector, good point.Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City