Do different types of coax cable take different F connectors? Inside the house I have quad shield, but I needed to run some cable outside for a temporary connection. I got an exterior grade cable, and crimp on F-connectors with o-rings and some sealant. I squeeze the crimper tight, but in my opinion the connectors are not tight enough on either cable. I can pull them off by hand, which doesn’t seem right.
I’m wondering if I should modify the crimper to close a little more or something. But maybe I just need to get better F connectors?
This is the cable and connectors I bought, along with the recommended crimper:
http://www.impactacoustics.com/product.asp?cat%5Fid=206&sku=43065
http://www.impactacoustics.com/product.asp?cat%5Fid=117&sku=41094
http://www.impactacoustics.com/product.asp?cat%5Fid=1521&sku=38010
what brand of connectors do people prefer?
Replies
I've given up on crimp style connectors completly and have switched to compression style. The tool and fittings are certainly more expensive, but I've yet to have one fail. With the crimp on style it seemed 50-50 whether it would work.
Crimp on is what the local cable company recommneds (AOL Time-Warner) so that is what I went with.Are the compression fittings two part?
If they recommend crimp on connectors, they peobably just want you to call them for service. They use compression fittings on all terminations. Crimp on will work if the crimper is correct for that part and the connectors match the cable. Compression fittings have the end (metal) and a plastic sleeve that slides into the metal part and snaps when it reaches it's destination and in doing so, squeezes the shield of the cable.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
The cable installers don't just recommend crimp on, they use them too. It is a really hefty connector, and seems to secure well.
If the connector has a blue or purple plastic ring at the top, those are snap-n-seal connectors, not crimp. The ones that are crimped are the ones that end up being hex shaped above the threaded collar.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Bryan,
If you're using the right connector and crimper, ja, you're right, you should not be able to pull the connector off the cable.
What are you using to prep the cable, that is, to strip it? A standard F-connector strip is .250 inch of the center conductor, and .250 of the outer jacket. There are commercially-available strippers for this, Xcelite has a good one that's cheap.
Check the specs on the connectors, and make sure you're using the right die (hole) in the crimper. Make sure the crimper has the right sized die. I recall using that same sort of crimper, and when the connector and cable were in the jaws, there was about 1/8" to 3/16" of space between the jaws, before you squeeze to make the crimp. Therre was a lot more squashing of the connector than you'd expect.
I prefer the snap-n-seal connectors (compression type) myself, but it's completely possible to get a good connection with crimp-on connectors. The $50-70 for the compression connector tool is not reasonable for a DIY who may only need it a few times (well, unless the DIY is a tool addict, and you know who you are out there...)
AT least you're using a good quality connector and a special purpose crimper. I've seen connectors applied by mashing them with sidecut pliers...
Last CATV wiring I did was in a major remodel. I'd trimmed out all the coax (installed the F-connectors and wall plates) and I was there hooking up the media distribution center when the cable guy came to install the drop from the pole to the house for the cable TV. The cable guy came up to me and thanked me for using snap-n-seal connectors; he said that I was the only electrician he'd ever run across who didn't use crimp-ons, sometimes not even using the proper crimper. Consequently, he cuts 'em off all the connectors and install the good kind (snap-n-seals). I told him to go tell the client!
Good luck.
Clif
I have this stripper that takes off the jacket, plus part of the inner insullator, leaving some of each level (mesh, inner insullator, copper cable).I don't see how the stripper would make a difference, it seems to me more of either a)how tight the crimper comes together or b)the connector itself.I may see if I can get the crimper to come together a bit more, and make a tighter crimp. I wish manufacturers would include details about how things fit and what parts match. I try my best to do things as right as I can, and I still get screwed!
Are there any good compression type connectors that secure with standard wrenches and/or pliers? I'd happily spend more for connectors, but I really don't want to buy a $100 tool for attaching them. what I would like is a connector that would tighten down to any size of cable.
Radio Shack actually has a couple decent crimping tools that are pretty cheap.
The fancy one is $17, part number 278-238:
View Image
I have the $8 model, part number 278-242, and it's worked fine for me.
View Image
I have seen F connectors that are attached similar to BNCs, with a compression nut. But they're rare, bulky, and expensive.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
There are several different diameters of cable and center insulator, and each requires a different type of connector.
Re the crimper, the best one is what the cable guys here use. It uses special connectors with a long attached "ring" and actually "draws" the "ring", producing about the strongest connection possible. I'm sure the thing costs a coupla hundred, though, and availability of connectors is probably limited.
Well, maybe not a coupla hundred. Something like this:
http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?main_cat=20305&CAT=&PROD=SLCCT1
happy?
It's not for nothing they call 'em "F" connectors. ;-) I use BNC's instead wherever I can.
-- J.S.
Possibly the reason you can pull them off is because of the sealing gel in the ferrule. Mighty slippery. If you have squeezed the crimper all the way and the crimper die is still not completely closed, it is about a much crimp as you can get. If the center tube of the F fitting does not have one or more ridges to grip the shield, they will be easy to pull off. Like many have said, snap-n-seal is the waay to go.
The big issue with crimp fittings is if they are not done perfectly, the chance if RF leakage is high and that is against the FCC rules that the cable company operates under.
Check HD or Lowes, as they both have F-connector hand presses for under $30. Just bought one last week and there were two models in that price range, although they looked to be made by the same company, marketed under different brands.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Santa brought me a Klien, it crimps and strips, with different stripping for copper or outercovering, also marked for 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
Gotta love Santa.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Yeah, Santa brought me a gall bladder extraction kit. Didn't help my F-connectors one bit.My crimper looks a lot like the top one from Radio shack. I am wondering about the gel issue.
In Cincinnati, Time Warner Cable uses compression fittings ONLY. Maybe it depends on the market? Whatever the case, compression fittings are FAR superior...
What brand of snap-and-seal do you like? I see Thomas and Betts has some that look decent, but this time around I want to make sure I get it right.
I like the T&B ratchet tool. If you only have a few to put together, you can use common tools like your regular crimper as a backing and then squeeze with a channel lock but you best have some experience beforehand in order to do a good job.Here is a link to a number of tools.
http://www.hometech.com/tools/coax.html#GC-COMPgood luckI like your approach....now lets see your departure
Out of all of the responses i'm surprised that no one pointed out that there are at least 3 major types of Coax and connectors. rg-6, rg-59, and rg-58. You probably don't have the right connector. i bought a kick #### coax stripper, klein, and have a decent pair of crimpers and that special tool for expanding the jacket on the cable, and inserting the f connector. a lot less expensive, and very easy to do. I did a 28 node video distribution panel in a very short time with no re-dos. The right tools, the right hardware does it every time.
I had specified RG-6, specifically quad-shield inside, and a special one outside. That's one of the reasons I was asking, if different types of RG-6 took different connectors.
can you give me a brand name and model number for "that special tool for expanding the jacket on the cable."
Carlos
This is one: http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?main_cat=20305&CAT=&PROD=SLCCT1
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?