I will soon be installing a compound crown, as shown below. I’m going to have two outside corners and six inside corners. The outside corners concern me a little. I mean, getting all three corners to match up perfectly – this will be stained, not painted (no caulk). It’s comprised of 4 1/4″ crown with the base piece around 4 inches down from the crown. The top cap can be any size. Actually, should it be short, just enough to show over the crown, or should it go all the way to the wall?
Any advice from the resident experts would be appreciated.
thanks,
Joe
Replies
might just be my computer ... but I can't see the pic.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
It's a white on white background with everything in the shop painted white.
sorry
View Image
what Buck said; and yeah, the bottom sticks down way too far.It's Never Too Late To Become
What You Might Have Been
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and yeah, the bottom sticks down way too far
I agree! But I'm betting you can guess my next sentance...
It's what the customer wants.
I had it about an inch or more smaller. One thing to consider, they have 11' ceilings. It should actually look Ok. Just a string of crown wouldn't be enough.
"What Buck would say", er, said.
Way too much exposed surface....eleven foot ceilings or not......go with a larger crown if need be...but shrink that reveal.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
(Poster formerly known as Jaybird)
that's not compound crown ... that's a coupla sticks of base with a stick of crown stuck in the middle.
easy ... just measure ... a mock up is best ... then snap some reference line for the bottom of the wall base and the outside of the ceiling base .... then run the base.
Next ... measure and mark the crown location ... and install as per the norm.
sometimes makes for an easier "crown" install ... as the base's are your nailing ... uh ... base?
and don't complicate things and confuse yourself ... remember ... the "wall base" ... is still wall base ... just turned upsidedown. The ceiling base ... is simple cut on the flat.
the only time ya need to "upside down and backwards" it is the actual crown.
Jeff
I didn't study the pics ... can't remember the proportions. One thing I've been seeing too much of is a way too big "flat reveal" on the bases. Set the base too far down the wall ... and too far out into the ceiling .... although it makes for a "bigger" hunk of crown ... kills the intent of making it look like one big #### piece of crown.
I like the flat reveals to replicate something already on the single piece of crown.
just one carp's opinion.
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
J, The wall pc should be no problem, you'll have plenty to nail to. The top pc might be a problem when you run parallel to the joist direction. If it was full width you'd catch at least the portion closest to the wall with the lath catcher. I'd be tempted to glue and pin to the drywall ceiling, run props till dry. Mock up a couple foot pc, run it around the room and make some hash marks to help guide you.........maybe show you some problem areas where you would want to stray from a straight line.
Remember, those corners might not/probably aren't true 90's. Cut up opposite true corner pcs, adjust as necessary b/4 you cut the good one.
With solid nailing all around the room for that Crown, you'll be in hog heaven when you get to that.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
nice thing with that ceiling crown out there a bit ...
easy enough to cut an access "flap" ... and just lay in and tack some rips of what ever for backer.
I've now started for-going any nails and/or glue and just screw up thru the drywall back where it won't show ... just enough to lock her down. either scrap 1x what ever fits ... or rips of ply work good. Anything that'll take a screw fairly easily and still hold onto a finish nail from the crown.
for those I've just confused ... Cal mentioned the sides where the ceiling joists run parallel ...
I just used the same trick last week to provide blcoking for a fridge FT3 filler that didn't wanna sit tight to the wall. Scribe where she needs to lay ... then cut flaps where it'll be out of sight. Lay in some scrap ... bingo ... great place to drive a screw and lock her all down tight as could be.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
As I've mentioned many times b/4, you are getting pretty astoot in this remodel carpentry bizness..............
for a right wing conservative bumper sticker graffitiest that lately has been a kinder gentler complete sentence s.o.b.
sorry cathy, you should see the expression on my face. ( INSERT THAT SMILEY THING )Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
ya make alot of mistakes ...
ya gotta make alot of last minutes fixes ...
and sooner or later ...
something sticks?
just remember ... we got almost another full year before we gotta start being nice to each other again!
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
year my ####.
Couple weeks and it's
PITTSBURGH SUCKS! my brother.........Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
coupla more weeks?
why wait ... the Pirates are still playing!
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
We do plenty of crown this way, plus actual compound crown (two runs of crown over and under a soffit forming a wide molding). I would suggest pulling the ceiling cap board out a bit and pulling the frieze up, try to even up the flat reveals a bit: not necessarily perfectly even but a bit closer. Try nailing the cap board up with adhesive and nails close together at acute angles-the nails should hold long enough for the adhesive to grab plus the crown itself will push it up. Alternatively EZ anchors every 32" on the runs parrallel to joists with screws beheind where the crown covers will work.
One challenge with this set up is getting the joint lines to line up in the miters. Take the time to bisect the angles and miter appropiately for all three pieces. Don't be afraid to draw pencil lines on the walls and ceiling or to cut test pieces. If the mold is prefinished, get sloppy with the glue at your joints and wipe the excess. If stained in place make sure whatever filler you're tempted to use stains and blends with the wood. Keep the joints sharp and crisp, watch where the sawblade exits the mold as you make each cut. Blah, blah, blah...
I love this fourm!!
Thanks for all the great advise.
Joe
Gotta 'nother idea---
1. Make the ceiling backer full width, so it will join the wall backer.
2. Assemble the three pieces on the bench. This gives you a very stable hollow triangle. Now make your cuts. Something like this, but this one's smaller and doesn't have a ceiling band. Your SCMS big enough to handle that?
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3. Biscuit the outside corners with mini-biscuits.
4. And yeah, the reveal on the wall backer is too big. If the HO wants that much reveal, talk him into at least putting a wider profile on the bottom edge of it. Something like that 1¾" beaded ogee cut you see in the photo above....
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.