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I’ve tried every one of the systems described the best result was hangers to the mudsill. It requires a wider mudsill and that the anchor bolts be set as close to 1.5″ above concrete as possible so you don’t have to counter bore the decking. The big advantage is there are no steps from garage to house but the combination of the mudsill and 3/4″ decking provide for a perfect water table at the door entry from the garage. Are you doing a crawl space or basement, watch the headroom if the latter.
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I purchased an arrow 10x14' vinyl shed and am placing it on slightly uneven ground. What is the most efficient and economical way to build the foundation. Thank you.
Brian
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Ledgering with wood sounds much faster and cheaper ( and
elevation foolproof) than forming and paying for more mud. I'd
run the anchor bolts up through the base plate of the wall, just for
fun. Real positive shear connection there. Three guys could
level, snap, measure, cut, pre-drill, spray paint mark for
roto-hammer and set 100' of 4x10 ledger in a morning, give or
take an hour. Try to make sure the 4x10 aren't pond dried. If they
are soaked, they'll really slow things down. Maybe soaking wet
lumber is a Pacific Northwest phenomena.
Besides, if you hang TJI down from sill with top flange hangers,
then you have to worry about tarring or black paper or Nervastrol
over the end of joist that are going to be touching the concrete.
Then you have to web stiffen, and nail the stiffeners on without
having the hanger attached to the concrete (This will probably
mean C clamps to hold the stiffeners together as you through
nail them to each other, since you can't toenail the stiffener into
the concrete to pin it for the flange nailing). And then some
powder actuated fasteners from the face of the hanger into the
concrete wall. There are nail holes there that need to be filled.
*Ledgering with wood sounds much faster and cheaper ( and elevation foolproof) than forming and paying for more mud. I'd run the anchor bolts up through the base plate of the wall, just for fun. Real positive shear connection there. Three guys could level, snap, measure, cut, pre-drill, spray paint mark for roto-hammer and set 100' of 4x10 ledger in a morning, give or take an hour. Try to make sure the 4x10 aren't pond dried. If they are soaked, they'll really slow things down. Maybe soaking wet lumber is a Pacific Northwest phenomena.
*Here, here, Nathan!Also... The cost of those top mount hangars can add up in a hurry.Jerry
*Where in Montana? I moved out of Missoula a couple of years ago and am getting the itch for a cross state bar tour...You could also simply build a wall in the basement to carry the floor joists... That ought to be pretty quick. I've had to bolt rim joists to basement walls before and it sucks. If you do go that route, get the rookie to do the drilling.Dan
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I am fine tuning plans and need a bit of assistance with I joists tying in with foundation. Because of a slope towards the house, I want to raise the uphill concrete wall so it is at or near the same level as the top of the I joists. Joists are 90 degrees to this taller wall. I cannot raise house any further; floor must stay at planned height. I can think of 3 options to connect the wall and joists: Joist hangers from sill, ledge in concrete for joists to sit on, or a wood ledger bolted to concrete that joists rest on. Any other options? Which is best, fastest?
*hangers.
*Faced with the same choices, I chose the ledge set into the concrete. Wrong answer! It came out fine, but was a PITA. Listen to Jim; use hangers.Jerry
*Faced with the same choices, I chose the ledge set into the concrete. Wrong answer! It came out fine, but was a PITA. Listen to Jim; use hangers.Jerry
*Why can't you just install pockets for the floor joists as you would for a beam pocket.Less headache than hangers and free.Gabe
*... we had and existing house / existing grade problem last year.we had the form company form a 6 inch ledge in the 12 inch wall and set our joists on the ledge so the entry level wound up at the level we needded and we still had 8 inch of concrete on the exterior between our siding and the finish grade....the same thing as forming a brick ledge only reversed..b but hey , whadda i no ?
*I've tried every one of the systems described the best result was hangers to the mudsill. It requires a wider mudsill and that the anchor bolts be set as close to 1.5" above concrete as possible so you don't have to counter bore the decking. The big advantage is there are no steps from garage to house but the combination of the mudsill and 3/4" decking provide for a perfect water table at the door entry from the garage. Are you doing a crawl space or basement, watch the headroom if the latter.
*I did one similar to what Mike talked about. The top of the foundation was 1-1/2" below the top of joists, on which a treated 2x6 was placed. A ledge was made inside that to accomodate the joists and a 2x plate. Sub-floor went over joists and 2x6 plate. Worked out great, and no hangers to squeek.Steve