We have a project coming up where we will need to cut three 2’x2′ holes in a concrete patio to install our porch posts and we will also need to cut about 18′ of asphalt driveway out for our apron (garage addition).
Whenever we have had the need to cut anything significant we have rented a saw and blade. This has pros & cons. It’s somewhat expensive and eats up time. So we’re thinking about buying our own saw.
I’ve used several brands but never enough to definitively say this is the one I would get. I guess before I talk about brands I should mention that I’m pondering gas vs. electric. The saw would not see heavy use (probably bi-monthly) so I am somewhat concerned about maintaining a gas engine over time. And of course gas has fumes to deal with indoors. Electric saws don’t seem to be as powerful but they will fire right up after sitting for 2 years and they’re cheaper.
I searched the archives and I’m reminded about the great advice to use a concrete cutting service. Maybe not having a saw would be the best thing because we would be tempted to DIY when paying the bill to another sub would be the easiest/best.
So many decisions…
Replies
http://www.icsbestway.com/
Check out their videos.
Frankie
There he goes—one of God's own prototypes—a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live and too rare to die.
—Hunter S. Thompson
from Fear And Loathing In Las Vegas
What I got is the Partner K-3000 electric. It has plenty of oompf for a 14" blade, and an electronic soft start so you don't blow fuses in an old house.
The downside is it's massively messy to use, and you need a helper blasting a stream of water from a hose nozzle at the blade. I tried containing it in a tub, but the blade flings water much too hard for that. Unlike a woodworking circular saw, it has no plate or depth adjustment, keeping the kerf vertical depends on your freehand skill.
http://www.partnerusa.com/
Once you have one, you'll find yourself doing some of those target of opportunity, just neaten this thing up type jobs -- Things you'd never bother with if you had to go rent a saw and schlep it back again.
-- J.S.
do you run the electric saw while your buddy blasts water at it ?
carpenter in transition
Yes, it's designed to work wet. The $250 blade lasts longer that way. Dust in the air from dry cutting is bad to breath, and spreads farther than the mess from wet cutting. You do have to rig some tarps or something, because it really flings the glop hard. It also rotates the opposite way from a woodworking saw, so the stuff comes right out the back.
-- J.S.
I got a electric 14" bosch, that I bought for the reasons you mentioned concerning gas. I use to rent the gas and always had problems. Get to the job won't start, runs a little stops, pizzed me off. Bought electric haven't looked back. Did a job for a guy and took a gas Sthil in trade have yet to use it. Cuts alittle slower than gas,but not that much, however its always ready when I need it.
It has a shoe for depth adjustment, I use diamond blades and a box fan to clear the dust away as I cut. Its cheaper in the long run even if your renting to just own your own blade. I reckon this saw is 20 years old, and I have yet had any problems. Like you it gets used every so often.
Have used services to cut large jobs, but a job like you have mentioned, your done within 1/2-1 hour, with no down time and you bill for the service.
just hire somebody to do your concrete cutting. it be alot cheaper
You're not going to get perfect corners for that cutout. You may be able to cut a pretty square box, but someway, somehow, you'll have to chisel out the corner unless you overcut, leaving a scar on the surface.
Therefore, why mess around with a dedicated machine, despite the small extra job?
For cases like this, I keep an old corded skilsaw with a decent 7 1/2" concrete blade. Why dust up a new one?
We got our permit today for the job, a week before it was expected. Don't you love that?
So I had a decision to make. I finally went with the Hitachi 12" saw with a diamond blade. The cost was about $300 less than the Partner 14" and the blades are cheaper as well. I was initially leaning towards a 14" saw but the cut depth is only 7/8" more (4" vs. 4-7/8"). I figure that we can still cut 8" walls and 4" slabs, and if we have some serious cutting to do we will call in a pro.
Thanks to all who contributed.
Jon Blakemore
RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Jon,I just bought the same saw an am about to go through a 8" wall. Would you definitely recommend a diamond blade over abrasive. Obviously the diamnond blade is better, but it is much much more expensive.
Having never used abrasive blades on masonary before, I have no idea how far each one will go. I'm cutting a 6' x 7' opening for patio doors. How many abrasive blades would you estimate I will go through?Thanks.
Bill
A bunch,go diamond
A HUNDRED and an abrasive blade wears down so you lose depth of cut.
If I was making that big a cut in an 8" wall I would definately hire a concrete cutting outfit as they can do a much cleaner cut .
How do you plan to brace the concrete above your cutout?
ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.
Remodeler/Punchout
Are you cutting concrete or block?If concrete, I would seriously try to hire it out. That's a very time consuming job.I bought a diamond blade because I know in the long run you get more dollar for dollar. If this was a one shot deal through CMU I might try my luck with abrasive but if you're keeping the saw just get a diamond.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
a) If you need to ask, then you need to reconsider if you should be doing this youself. Seems like you are in over your head.b) 8" wall. 4 3/4" Depth of cut. 6' x 7'. That's a total of 40 linear feet of cut, assuming you do not cut it in sections. Why would ANYONE even consider an abrasive blade? Think about it.c) As someone else mention, an abrasive blade wears, therefore looses depth of cut - quickly. So you cut on both sides and then discover that you did not make it all the way through in random spots. UGH!d) Spend a great deal of time on site protection. Floor shoulds have rosin paper, and masonite - 4mil plastic too if using water. Have a fan running exhausting the dusty air. Have someone vacuuming the dust as you cut. If you are using water, then someone should be vacuuming the water as you cut.This is VERY messy work. Think it out. Prepare for the WORST possible case. It will be cheaper AND faster in the long run.Frankie
There he goes—one of God's own prototypes—a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live and too rare to die.
—Hunter S. Thompson
from Fear And Loathing In Las Vegas