Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 18, 2000 03:26pm | #15

   *
   How does one go about framing for concrete steps, rise about 7-8", run approx 10". there will be eight steps and a landing. Does some of the framing have to come off, for the finishing?

1. 
   Guest_ | May 09, 2000 02:14pm | #1

   *markm... i assume u mean FORMING for concrete steps..in it's simplest form it would be plywood forms for the sides... and then the risers..the risers wud be 2x8 , set plumb or 5 to 10 degrees off plumb..if yur steps get to be more than say 4' wide u have to reinforce the riser form to prevent bowing..the most common error is in not sufficiently bracing the forms so u wind up with unsightly bulges...if u want nice work... think about buying form grade coated plywood (looks like MDO)..and make up ur risers with screw on brackets so u can strip the forms without disturbing the GREEN concrete..u can also form in a nosing on yur riser forms..use the stiffest mix u can handle and keep some extra to the side wen u pour..pour ur bottom step..and then right up the stairs.. after it takes a set , u have to top off .. the concrete wants to flow out over the risers but it will take a set and stay in place..there is a LOT of force on ur bottom risers...screed,,, float,, edge,, finish... fix depressions..strip the next day (GREEN) and rub ur exposed risers with a wood float and water to make a cement slurry finish that will bond with the concrete..this early stripping is why u want to design ur forms so they can be taken apart without stressing the concrete....i usually finish with a steel trowel and then a wood float to get the trexture i wantfinishing the next day (EARLY) with whatever method u want is the key to getting a lasting finish..a wood float finish oh, yeh..use a form release agent so yur forms don't stick to the concrete..Kermit

1. 
   Guest_ | May 09, 2000 03:14pm | #2

   *Here's a sketch of one way to do it.View Image

1. 
   Guest_ | May 09, 2000 03:34pm | #3

   *great visual ryan...markm.. notice that teh riser boards are cut with a 45 bevel on them so you can reach in with yur trowel to finish the tread....very important..

1. 
   Guest_ | May 15, 2000 02:21am | #4

   *Have a new twist to the concrete steps question, the concrete steps that I would to form, are an extension of existing concrete steps, how does one build and support forms for these steps? The steps in question are three feet wide, I would like to extent them to six feet wide.

2. 
   Guest_ | May 15, 2000 02:23am | #5

   *Thank you for the sketch, that was great, Mark

3. 
   Guest_ | May 15, 2000 02:45pm | #6

   *Drill into the side of the existing steps, epoxy reinforcing rod into these holes so that it will tie the old to the new and frame the same way.

4. 
   Skip_Serrell | May 15, 2000 05:33pm | #7

   *For wider steps reinforce with a stringer cut just like one for framed steps, flip it upside-down and screw to the center. Don't wait too long to strip, you may not be able to finish the risers

5. 
   Guest_ | May 15, 2000 08:13pm | #8

   *I've never seen that done, good tip.

6. 
   Guest_ | May 15, 2000 08:13pm | #9

   *How do you keep the risers in place, if you rebar into the old steps, I have only one side of the forms supported.

7. 
   Guest_ | May 15, 2000 08:16pm | #10

   *How about exposed aggregate using a retarder? How do you get the finish on the risers?Dennis

8. 
   Guest_ | May 15, 2000 10:50pm | #11

   *...i wud just lap the riser forms onto the existing risers and shoot them with one shot so they won't shift up or down.....i wud rig spring braces to an immoveable object from each riser form to the object...or stake and brace each riser form....wen u strip and finish,..... finish the hole left by the shot.. keep yur shots away from the edge so the old riser doesn't spall..if you want to use a retarder for exposed aggregate, try lining the riser form with an absorbent material and spray your retardent onto the form just before you pour...tap your forms to remove all honeycomb and bubbles.. and strip while green so you can finish..if you angle your rebar dowels down, you won't have to epoxy them because gravity will cause the new steps to hang on the dowels and the resulting vector will be towards the old mass.....b but hey, whadda i no?

9. 
   Guest_ | May 15, 2000 10:55pm | #12

   *It seems that this is where the upside down stringer trip would work.let your riser forms run onto the existing steps have them lay up against the existing risers. An upside down stringer would work great to hold these forms in place.I've never doubled the width of a set of steps. repaired concrete steps and enlarged machinery curbs by doing this. Instead of a stringer, I've used concrete block to hold the form boards in place on the end where I couldn't attach it to anything.

10. 
    Guest_ | May 18, 2000 07:45am | #13

    *Anyone know of any articles in the fine home building magazine dealing with forms for concrete sidewalks and concrete steps? What do you guys use for forming curves in sidewalks?

11. 
    Guest_ | May 18, 2000 02:22pm | #14

    *plywood... steel... pre-cast concrete curb..

12. 
    Guest_ | May 18, 2000 03:26pm | #16

    *Forms in plywood to start, but would like to read about all concrete forms. Thanks again.